The start of my rudimentary schematics. I am sure that my diagrams of components don’t meet any electrical standards. I need to draw mine out and then see if I can translate the factory schematic that is closest to mine so I can troubleshoot.
New project: Allen Engine analyzers, restoration?
- Thread starter HWYCRZR
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Thanks @1970cat. It seems I already have most of what pertains to my machines already downloaded in my file. So one thing I need to learn is the difference between "lunch box" and " bathtub" type analyzers. My first thoughts are that the "lunch Box" type are portable? and the "Bathtub" are console machines?
Any nugget I can find is a step forward. Now I need to see if I can get a hold of this Mattson guy from Finley, MN. Per his E-bay site he has some parts and knowledge. I did buy about three different manual sets from him as well.
Any nugget I can find is a step forward. Now I need to see if I can get a hold of this Mattson guy from Finley, MN. Per his E-bay site he has some parts and knowledge. I did buy about three different manual sets from him as well.
Still hitting a brick wall on the exhaust side. Early on I had what I think is/was the heat/IR source glowing. Now nothing. I checked the circuit which is fed by full power, it has power (as it is shared the voltage regulator which works). It flows through a 33 ohm resistor(I believe to heat the tubes to prevent condensation) then onto the “glow plug” of which I cannot find the resistance spec. But the resistance through both is 53 ohms. It’s in series which leaves about 20 Ohms for the plug. So not shorted. But is 20 ohms enough to make a metal rod glow?
On a whim I decided to take my Infrared thermometer across the chip board. Almost everything on the board maxed out around 94 degrees except for one chip which on one tang was at 154 degrees and the other side was about 124 degrees. So maybe that chip is shorting out? I may be going down a rabbit hole. Maybe I need to isolate the plug and apply voltage to see if it heats up? My thoughts are that something on the circuit board is not allowing the circuit to go to ground to heat?
On a whim I decided to take my Infrared thermometer across the chip board. Almost everything on the board maxed out around 94 degrees except for one chip which on one tang was at 154 degrees and the other side was about 124 degrees. So maybe that chip is shorting out? I may be going down a rabbit hole. Maybe I need to isolate the plug and apply voltage to see if it heats up? My thoughts are that something on the circuit board is not allowing the circuit to go to ground to heat?
By the way I fired up the oscilloscope to check out @Polara_500_Jr car when we adjusted his new carb the other night. When you learn to read the tea leaves (scope), you can finally answer the question - ballast resistor or fuel? Is it coil wiring, is it a plug wire? What cylinder is causing the issues. Is one bank richer than another. You can even shut off spark to half of the engine. I love it. I need to get it totally fixed including the gauges.
It seemed to work pretty well. If you do get the Exhaust analyzer working it will be pretty interesting to see.
3175375
Senior Member
I can try to analyze the circuit, but tell us what the problem is or how it’s behaving…
See a couple of posts ago where I explained some of what is going on. When I start it up the gauges peg. The HC gauge pegs and goes directly down to below 0. The CO% gauge pegs and then slowly goes down. In about 3 minutes it is below zero on the gauge with no calibration adjustment. I have power to the panel regular 120 V and 40V regulated. The switches seem to work to transfer power to the correct circuit as stated in an above thread. There is a (glow plug) my term that is no longer glowing. Some notes in the books I have say that if the gauges don’t zero, there is something wrong with the analyzer reading circuit.
I will post a video, when I get a chance.
I will post a video, when I get a chance.
I finally printed out my schematics for my 1500-10. If you remember the oscilloscope worked for the electrical system analysis, but the gauges would not move even though the fuses are good. The schematics are difficult in a PDF, so printing them out and tapping them together so I can hopefully trace it back to the problem. Since none of them flicker there must be a relay, wire, ground? That they have in common. I have a little piecing together to do.
You ever need a hand tinkering.... you know where to find me.
Actually even certified and licensed in MN as a power limited (under 90V) electrician...
Dave
I need to read through the theory of operation a few times. I really need to replace the power cord as it is frayed in a couple of spots and the ground wire is broken. I saw somewhere that the gauges needed ground.
Maybe making some progress, maybe on my exhaust analyzer. Initially when I fired it up last year, I had heat to the infrared source, but then at about the same time I found I had re-installed my old seized vacuum pump. I remember as I shut it off to change the vacuum pump I heard a “POP”. I thought maybe the pump was trying to break loose. So I changed the pump, but noticed that the infrared source was not heating up. You may remember that I was working with a manual that was close but not quite correct. Digging through my analyzer files I stumbled across what seems to be the right manual. Any way I suggested that the infrared may be burned out. I did some more research and found that the infrared source is just a 225w 240V fast heat cartridge which I believe is used to light furnaces. Any way I found one on eBay for $22 so I ordered it. While waiting I removed my old one and discovered it had a little bulge. That was the “POP” I heard. So hopefully when I get the new one, things will work.
Also on the diagnostic machine I started checking pin connections from the engine harness back to the analyzer. I found when I stuck my amp meter probe in, one of the plug sockets would back out. I also found that one of the other sockets had a loose wire. Waiting for some new sockets and plug. Hopefully that was part of my problem of the gauges not lighting. With the wiring of a complex machine I figured I would start with the easy stuff, and rule out the simple stuff before I tackle the circuit boards
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