New Shock Frustrations ...

Ghostultramarine

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Bought new KYB shocks for the '68 Newport Convert.

The rear 2 went in okay (heck of time breaking the rear bolts loose lying on my back under the car on safety stands). My daughter (13) helped (by dropping the 1/2 socket on the bridge of my nose).

The front 2 came out okay (because the ones in there had ZERO play to them - completely shot, as were the rear ones).

Heck of a frustration getting the new ones in. Used a bar clamp to compress them and then 2 pairs of zip ties to hold them down to get them in (why wouldn't the engineers just have designed it just slightly different so they would just slide in and out?!).

The driver's side went in okay.

Then came the passenger side...

We got the shock up and in, attached the top cup and finger tightened the nut on to hold it in place, cut the wire ties and then it expanded out...

... only to not fit into the cross-member ...

Why is it not going in? MacGyvered a solution to push it up (see photo with pliers and floor jack) and move it over slightly and let it down.

4A503BEC-905A-4C88-88FC-049019E40404.jpeg


Still not going in.

Tried again.

Same thing.

Used calipers to measure olde ones and new ones.

New ones just happen to be over a millimetre wider ...

So they won't fit in.

Tried a few times to get the new ones out to sand them down and no go.

I can't get a regular rasp in there (not enough room) and the needle files I have would take hours of continuous filing to get a fraction of a mm off.

Yes, I am going to write the company and send them pictures.

In the mean time, any suggestions on how to get it out without damaging in and or sanding it down? (The dremel tool has popped into mind.)

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Below is the driver’s side. A tight fit but I was able to move it in place without much effort.
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Passenger side “fun”.

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F402E7A4-2657-4FC3-B0A2-63CA77CEFBEC.jpeg


D530D7D2-2D9C-4294-B816-78547D633700.jpeg
 
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Place a bottle jack with a narrow 1/2" deep socket, as a spacer, under the bottom end of the shock, through the control arm to move it back up. The inside faces of the control arm probably need a little cleaning up to allow the shock to slide in place. Could also tap the shock bottom mount with a ball peen hammer to move into place.
 
Place a bottle jack with a narrow 1/2" deep socket, as a spacer, under the bottom end of the shock, through the control arm to move it back up. The inside faces of the control arm probably need a little cleaning up to allow the shock to slide in place. Could also tap the shock bottom mount with a ball peen hammer to move into place.

Unfortunately, I don't think no amount of persuasion is going to seat this - unless I somehow pry the control arm apart a bit. A mm doesn't seem like much, but it is when you have to seat steel.

I possibly could take a wire wheel on a dremel to the inside of the control arm. A bit here and a bit there do add up.
 
What I see here is 2 possibilities:

1) Poor quality control on the dimension of the bushings such that one was longer than the other...very possible considering some of the crap quality of "new" parts nowadays;

2) The LCA crushed a bit when the old shock was tightened/ over tightened?

Either way, I think the shock has to come back out to rectify things.
 
LCA appears to be crushed inward from over tightening or a curb shot. I hope you don't have to replace it.
You might get away with grinding a little off the lower shock bushing.
 
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2 more good options!

Thank you.

I can try the grinder first. Then I could get the “jaws” if I need them (have to head into the city - the perils of summer vacation).
 
Measure the lower shock bushing with a digital caliper on both the new shock and the old one. if the new one is bigger, trim it to fit and thank ChiCom bushing manufacturers for their attention to quality control and detail.

Dave
 
Yes, the new KYB is larger. Just over a mm wider than the ancient Delco ones.

(I’m going to guess Delco was the old name of what is now AC Delco?)
 
AC Spark Plug Division and Delco used to be different sections of GM. Now long-combined into one entity. "AC" stood for Albert Champion, as in Champion Spark Plug before Billy Durant motivated him to come to work for fledgling GM long ago, to design and build AC spark plugs.

"Delco" did electronics (think car radios and such) and other general mechanical car parts (shocks, brake linings, and such), but they also did parts for non-GM vehicles that were sold via auto supply stores.

Hate that you had this issue with the length of the tube in the lower bushing.

Take care,
CBODY67
 
I essentially had this same issue earlier this year except with the driver side on my 68 NYer. I may have filed it some, but I remember putting a block of brass on it and striking it with a hammer to get it in place. Passenger side feel into place. The width was minimally different, but enough to make it a struggle.
 
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Had a similar issue with mine when I replaced them this spring. A 1mm difference is not a lot but can create some frustration. I do think the issue is more with your LCA. if you clean up some of the rust, add some lube and finesse the control arm into position it will work. I did that to mine with a little convincing on my passenger side. I didn’t even think of the grinding at the bushing option - but still made it work. Or…..you can do what others suggest and grind away at the bushing. Best of luck!
 
It doesn't take much to distort that opening on the LCA. I had a girlfriend that hit the curb with my Challenger numerous times back in the mid 1970's. I had to replace the LCA 3 separate times. The LCA is a PITA to replace. She wasn't my GF after the 3rd curb shot!!!
 
I took some time to examine my lower control arm in the daylight. It doesn’t appear have a dent or distortion to it. Some surface rust but no visible damage I saw today. I’ll check it again tomorrow when I put the wheels back on.
 
Test drive today. Went over the worst potholed and rough roads I could find.

It was like driving a cloud! Just floating along and we didn’t feel any of them.

Steering seemed better, too.
 
Test drive today. Went over the worst potholed and rough roads I could find.

It was like driving a cloud! Just floating along and we didn’t feel any of them.

Steering seemed better, too.

Does the car have sway bars?

Adding them will make another handling dimension!!!
 
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