Maxi vs Mini today.
New to me 78 NYB on its way but please Don't tell my wife
- Thread starter 73 T&C
- Start date
Stand by.....I don’t think I’ve ever seen a picture of her since you’ve owned her with the sunroof open? Obviously not during bath time, but!
Sunroof open on a fine South FLORIDA morning...... for those who doubted its operation. Poke poke poke.
Report!!!!!!
Ok... so it’s been about a week of fairly good performance. Smooth power off the line without any response problems.
My nose tells me she’s no longer running rich.
My ears tell me that she is no longer missing on any cylinders (no puffing from the exhaust) on idle out of gear very smooth with A/C compressor off. They also do not hear any pinging from the engine under load... even on the occasional full throttle squirts (I say if you got - it flaunt it)
My eyes are telling me she is more efficient as she’s gone for 68 miles on a marked quarter tank on the guage in normal city/highway mix.
My butt is telling me she has good power for her age and configuration. It also tells me that she is still engaging a little harshly into gear from idle ( primarily into reverse ) but without any of the previous groan or banging. That tuckus of mine is also telling me that I’m getting too much vibration transfer from the A/C compressor at low rpm regardless of loads.
My fingers feel smooth power with the A/C off on the hood and on the steering wheel. With the RV2 engaged, I can feel the compressor rattle the whole works at idle and in gear. Thinking to check if any difference in engine mounts would help.
My foot feels the lack of need to push on the accelerator to keep up (or occasionally) move ahead of traffic. It does, however, tell me that the accelerator needs help to engage the cruise control. (Will be adjusting screw out a 1/2 turn to check effect) That same right foot also tells me the brakes are mushy in comparison to the stand on its nose brakes of her 9 passenger older sister (I’m thinking pads are cheap low dust crap).
Got a replacement drive gear for the passemger front window motor to get installed tomorrow.
My hands and face feel she is running cooler now that she is no longer dumping unburned charges into her exhaust.
So I’m guessing we’re almost there.
Last remaining issues are:
Automatic parking brake release is inop. d to leak in actuator vacuum motor.
Turn signal activation sometimes momentarily shuts radio off. Need to check wiring for radio power source.
Drivers side lighter not connected. Need it for the phone charger.
Bluetooth on radio not working correctly.
Javier.
Ok... so it’s been about a week of fairly good performance. Smooth power off the line without any response problems.
My nose tells me she’s no longer running rich.
My ears tell me that she is no longer missing on any cylinders (no puffing from the exhaust) on idle out of gear very smooth with A/C compressor off. They also do not hear any pinging from the engine under load... even on the occasional full throttle squirts (I say if you got - it flaunt it)
My eyes are telling me she is more efficient as she’s gone for 68 miles on a marked quarter tank on the guage in normal city/highway mix.
My butt is telling me she has good power for her age and configuration. It also tells me that she is still engaging a little harshly into gear from idle ( primarily into reverse ) but without any of the previous groan or banging. That tuckus of mine is also telling me that I’m getting too much vibration transfer from the A/C compressor at low rpm regardless of loads.
My fingers feel smooth power with the A/C off on the hood and on the steering wheel. With the RV2 engaged, I can feel the compressor rattle the whole works at idle and in gear. Thinking to check if any difference in engine mounts would help.
My foot feels the lack of need to push on the accelerator to keep up (or occasionally) move ahead of traffic. It does, however, tell me that the accelerator needs help to engage the cruise control. (Will be adjusting screw out a 1/2 turn to check effect) That same right foot also tells me the brakes are mushy in comparison to the stand on its nose brakes of her 9 passenger older sister (I’m thinking pads are cheap low dust crap).
Got a replacement drive gear for the passemger front window motor to get installed tomorrow.
My hands and face feel she is running cooler now that she is no longer dumping unburned charges into her exhaust.
So I’m guessing we’re almost there.
Last remaining issues are:
Automatic parking brake release is inop. d to leak in actuator vacuum motor.
Turn signal activation sometimes momentarily shuts radio off. Need to check wiring for radio power source.
Drivers side lighter not connected. Need it for the phone charger.
Bluetooth on radio not working correctly.
Javier.
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commando1
Old Man with a Hat
You used just about every part of your body to examine the car but you omitted the most important one.
Too hard to use it?
Jav. I sincerely mean this. We need to swap NYBs and do a full evaluation of each other's car.
And post the results....
Too hard to use it?
Jav. I sincerely mean this. We need to swap NYBs and do a full evaluation of each other's car.
And post the results....
75LandYacht
Yank Tank
Never doubted you Javier, just wanted to see it open. I’m very envious.....
Did a check on the pucks in the replacement power window gear before digging into the door tomorrow and.... in a word.... they were f**ked.
Ran to ACE before they closed to see what I could figure out to McGiver a solution.
Came up with the following solution.
The pucks seam to have been made of the same material as wiper bushings and literally started coming apart all by themselves.
Ended up using the shorter nylon spacers rather than cutting the bigger ones down... call me lazy.
Ended up using the 1/4” screw size interior diameter with 1/2” O.D. 1/4” high.
Nice and snug.
Ran to ACE before they closed to see what I could figure out to McGiver a solution.
Came up with the following solution.
The pucks seam to have been made of the same material as wiper bushings and literally started coming apart all by themselves.
Ended up using the shorter nylon spacers rather than cutting the bigger ones down... call me lazy.
Ended up using the 1/4” screw size interior diameter with 1/2” O.D. 1/4” high.
Nice and snug.
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LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
Nice thinking on that one.
Maybe nylon spacers may last a lifetime....but my luck with anything plastic hasn't worked out.
Mr. C has a thread on FCBO that uses 1/4 x 20 nuts with knocking off the pointy edges on the nuts that will never ever fail again. The only issue with using the steel nuts is that the "metal fabricated pucks" won't fail if some kid gets his head caught in the window. I believe the reason the "OEM pucks" are made out of plastic is that they were engineered to fail if a kid got his head caught in the window.
Mr. C has a thread on FCBO that uses 1/4 x 20 nuts with knocking off the pointy edges on the nuts that will never ever fail again. The only issue with using the steel nuts is that the "metal fabricated pucks" won't fail if some kid gets his head caught in the window. I believe the reason the "OEM pucks" are made out of plastic is that they were engineered to fail if a kid got his head caught in the window.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Damn the kids. Shouldn't be getting their greasy paws all over the car in the first place...
I have the Mr. C rebuild in my motors.
I guess we can call this the Mr. J window motor gear repair.
Some 4 hours and one Supreme Court Justice later.... all done and working fine again.
Looky here... they used the damned rivets instead of bolts. As I carefully removed the panels and the water shield underneath, it was obvious to me that I was the first person into this door since it left the factory. One interesting thing I noticed was that the upper nylon push clips for the water shield were installed without going through the water shield.
All clear and ready to go in.
After grinding the stems off the rivets and then drilling them out, I was able to rotate the operating mechanism up to access the motor bolts and set a vice grip I use for body work to hold the gear in place for safety. Window was in full up position when I started and I held it with one hand while rotating the mechanism.
As suspected, the pucks in the drive gear were dust. I get a feeling I’ll be f’ing with similar repairs like this three more times.
Greased up the new gear and installed it into the housing.
Slipped easily in and greased this side before putting cover back on.
Something I learned from my youngest... test the motor before installing it. She is a robotics champ from high school. Clever kid.
I didn’t mark the adjustment points for the track. So I got the pleasure of re-figuring it out. Should have asked my daughter to help
Took an extra 30 minutes but I got it back to where it was.
All together and all the accessories now working on this door!
Some 4 hours and one Supreme Court Justice later.... all done and working fine again.
Looky here... they used the damned rivets instead of bolts. As I carefully removed the panels and the water shield underneath, it was obvious to me that I was the first person into this door since it left the factory. One interesting thing I noticed was that the upper nylon push clips for the water shield were installed without going through the water shield.
All clear and ready to go in.
After grinding the stems off the rivets and then drilling them out, I was able to rotate the operating mechanism up to access the motor bolts and set a vice grip I use for body work to hold the gear in place for safety. Window was in full up position when I started and I held it with one hand while rotating the mechanism.
As suspected, the pucks in the drive gear were dust. I get a feeling I’ll be f’ing with similar repairs like this three more times.
Greased up the new gear and installed it into the housing.
Slipped easily in and greased this side before putting cover back on.
Something I learned from my youngest... test the motor before installing it. She is a robotics champ from high school. Clever kid.
I didn’t mark the adjustment points for the track. So I got the pleasure of re-figuring it out. Should have asked my daughter to help
Took an extra 30 minutes but I got it back to where it was.
All together and all the accessories now working on this door!
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one more thing..... in case you were wondering why it took so long to fix a window....
I also finally got a chance to make the swap of the old steering wheel with an NOS wheel I got from Stan..... it really completes and makes the interior.
Pulling the wheel was a a bit of a puzzle. The telescoping mechanism is a bit unfriendly but finally yielded its Chinese metal puzzle secret.
All I can say is.... Wow! And thanks Stan for selling it to me.
I also finally got a chance to make the swap of the old steering wheel with an NOS wheel I got from Stan..... it really completes and makes the interior.
Pulling the wheel was a a bit of a puzzle. The telescoping mechanism is a bit unfriendly but finally yielded its Chinese metal puzzle secret.
All I can say is.... Wow! And thanks Stan for selling it to me.
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commando1
Old Man with a Hat
It couldn't have been passed on to a more deserving NYB.
I gotta admit... Wow, that does look great.
Wear cotton gloves, please.
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cm23uoc
Old Man with a Hat
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He will Need These Flamboyant leather gloves :
That went to the best home possible...It couldn't have been passed on to a more deserving NYB.
I gotta admit... Wow, that does look great.
Wear cotton gloves, please.
Sure glad I didn't try to make it work for one of mine...
Got gas for the NYB last night and was pleasantly surprised to se the 90 octane non ethanol was 6 cents cheaper than premium.
Non ethanol 90 octane was $3.49
Checked my records and found I had the motor mounts changed in February. But unlike me ‘73 wagon, this ‘78 has spool type mounts similar to my small block.
Getting a minor vibration telegraphing through the frame from the engine. Most of it is from the RV-2 A/C compressor (much more than from my ‘73) The balance seems as if it is from the engine. Need to source to reason.
Here’s a view of the earlier engine mounts.
Non ethanol 90 octane was $3.49
Checked my records and found I had the motor mounts changed in February. But unlike me ‘73 wagon, this ‘78 has spool type mounts similar to my small block.
Getting a minor vibration telegraphing through the frame from the engine. Most of it is from the RV-2 A/C compressor (much more than from my ‘73) The balance seems as if it is from the engine. Need to source to reason.
Here’s a view of the earlier engine mounts.
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Mr C
Senior Member
Yup, Spool vs Biscuit(those Spool mounts debuted in 74 I think). The Biscuit mounts will fail ...especially with a torquey engine. Spool mounts have never failed me.
I put a plastic wrapped chain on the drivers side to limit the acceleration torque movement. Working well for the last 8 years or so on my ‘73.
The spools on the ‘78 were pretty well shot when I got the car.
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Mr C
Senior Member
Oh, the rubber can wear out on the Spool type, but it will never fail and allow the engine to jump out of the mounts. At least I've never seen it.
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