New to me 78 NYB on its way but please Don't tell my wife

[1978 NYB]

Sounds like light switch rheostat is not working for the dash lights. Are all the dash lights out or just most of them? If the light switch is good then the dash light bulbs are bad. They are 194's and 168's and they are a super pain in the *** to replace. If you have big hands like me you have to take the dash apart to get to them or if you have a wife or a small kid that can reach down and behind the instrument panel to remove and replace the bulbs. Just about all of my dash light bulbs were burned out after40 years and I had to take the dash apart to get to the bulbs.

 

[1978 NYB]

The ATC not working is a bummer. I would think that I'm a pretty damn good mechanic but that ATC is enough of a deterrent to make me pass on a car with ATC. I have manual A/C in both of my Formals and it was a breeze to rebuild the A/C system in both of them and get them working.

 

[1978 NYB]

Exhaust.....i would eliminate the cat and run duals and Flowmaster 40's.

 

[commando1]

I have manual A/C in both of my Formals and it was a breeze to rebuild the A/C system in both of them and get them working.

Sure, Bob, keeping rubbing it in....

 

[73 T&C]

Day ten: two steps forward three steps back.

Weeping valve covers weren’t weeping....

I swear I didn’t torque them past 15 pounds! I have another car with aluminum heads and that’s the max I do. Best I figure is they were cracked from before.

Changed tranny fluid and filter. Some sediment in the pan but I’ve seen much worse

As long as I had her up, cleaned up the glue from the lower sick on rub strips and lower rocker trim.

Little dent and previous repair on drivers side... not too bad so far.

 

[73 T&C]

And she got her first bath today.

 

[73 T&C]

Observations, notes and additions to the list.

• Rear differential doesn’t have a treaded plug.. just a rubber one. Fluid was good and clean.
• Flushed brake fluid was a little brown. Brakes still a little mushy but better. The wagon’s brakes will stand that old girl in her nose but these feel noticeably weaker.
• Tracking down some oem steel valve covers.
• Accelerator pump only works about half as good as it should. Should be solid juicy stream. Getting half hearted bubbly weak stream. Ordered a fresh zip kit and going in for second time next week.
• Doors and panel alignment is absolute ****.... I know I can do better.

• Parking brake release inop and I don’t even hear a hiss....hmmm. Vacuum... A/C vent system dead.... I’m thinking I know where to start on both.
• Lubed the front end and only the rear universal. Front has no lube nipple (Zerk fitting)......
• ....and neither does the pitman arm joint. But, it does have this plastic plug that may be there to protect a hole to put one in.

 

[73 T&C]

Sure, Bob, keeping rubbing it in....

Yeah... what Stan said!

 

[73 T&C]

New tires soon. These are 9 years young.

I had previously misread the date code.

 

[73 T&C]

Sounds like light switch rheostat is not working for the dash lights. Are all the dash lights out or just most of them? If the light switch is good then the dash light bulbs are bad. They are 194's and 168's and they are a super pain in the *** to replace. If you have big hands like me you have to take the dash apart to get to them or if you have a wife or a small kid that can reach down and behind the instrument panel to remove and replace the bulbs. Just about all of my dash light bulbs were burned out after40 years and I had to take the dash apart to get to the bulbs.

No lights working at all which make me think rheostat. Clock even goes off when the lights turned on (first click out of switch). Turning rheostat has no effect. Interior lights do turn on when switch taken to full; but not the dash lights.

I’m planning to start with the fuse and go from there before tearing into the dash. I learned to diagnose a lot before tearing in. It may take more time on the front end but will save you time and money in the long run. I also have one of these to help me.... which if you don’t have; you need to keep up these or any cars.

 

[oliver]

It's a real treat to see one getting fixed up! FOR A CHANGE!!!!!!!

Thanks.

 

[1978 NYB]

Steering wise everything was tight and sericeable on both of my Formal's......except the idler arm. I had to replace them on both cars. Moog has an improved design idler arm that DOESN'T FIT worth a damn. There is a couple of places like Brads that has NOS idler arms but wants a lot for them. I think Tony Diagnosta (however he spells his name) has a few too.

 

[73 T&C]

Update on broken valve covers.

They’re from a ‘73 440 which should work fine with new gaskets. And you all know I have a soft spot for anything 73.......

Called the guy direct and they’re on their way....... hopefully tomorrow.

 

[1978 NYB]

These are the FelPro valve cover gaskets I always use. I never have a problem with them. They are for a 69 Charger R/T 440 severe duty. A heavy fiber/rubber gasket that you will like. AAP will either have them in stock or can get them later in the day or next day.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

No lights working at all which make me think rheostat. Clock even goes off when the lights turned on (first click out of switch). Turning rheostat has no effect. Interior lights do turn on when switch taken to full; but not the dash lights.

I’m planning to start with the fuse and go from there before tearing into the dash. I learned to diagnose a lot before tearing in. It may take more time on the front end but will save you time and money in the long run. I also have one of these to help me.... which if you don’t have; you need to keep up these or any cars.

View attachment 169745

View attachment 169746

Best tool ever.
You should have adjusted the bands when pan was down.
Those cast aluminum VC always have problems on crooked iron heads, especially with 1000° exhaust manifold right next to the 1400° melting point aluminum VC.

 

[73 T&C]

Valve covers on the way but won’t get here until Friday.

Transmission mount also delayed.

Did score a fresh rebuild kit for the TQ. Second time should be the charm.

Big weekend with the family planned so will be signing off for a few days. Family First!

 

[cantflip]

Valve covers on the way but won’t get here until Friday.

Transmission mount also delayed.

Did score a fresh rebuild kit for the TQ. Second time should be the charm.

Big weekend with the family planned so will be signing off for a few days. Family First!

You mean the wife still doesn't know... good move, save the surprise

 

[LocuMob]

You mean the wife still doesn't know... good move, save the surprise

If I wait, I keep getting shorter.

 

[1978 NYB]

3M makes a killer rubbing and polishing compound that comes in a tube. It's expensive $50 a tube and used by the pro's with a buffer that will make your paint look brand new.

 

[78Brougham]

Just mho opinion on the buffing.. unless you have done it before and have the proper buffer with the proper pads and most importantly the skill set. I'd get a professional do it.
Those guys do it everyday and make it look easy, but there are certain techniques to doing it right.
By the time you buy the buffer, the pads (many to choose from for the different compounds). Then add in the compounds like Bob mentioned, just how many will it take to do a formal when the guy running the machine isn't quite as proficient with a buffer as a pro. I think you'd be better off plunking down the $250 or so and get a pro to do it.
Unless like I said, you've done it before, then never mind. Lol