Never remove a Thermocrap when its hot warps the body. AMHIK....
New to me 78 NYB on its way but please Don't tell my wife
- Thread starter 73 T&C
- Start date
Pclancy
Active Member
Who sells amplifiers, Mr. C? Thanks.
Mr C
Senior Member
This company appears to be repopping them...good thing Mercedes used Auto Temp or we'd be royally screwed. Look under Climate Control- ACC I
ACC Version I
I think this may be for Autotemp I...I don't know if it translates directly over to Autotemp II.
ACC Version I
I think this may be for Autotemp I...I don't know if it translates directly over to Autotemp II.
Never have but good to know
Similar but not the same hardware. Formals have their amplifiers separate from the controller and both were placed inside as far as I can see with limited knowledge of both.
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Blows hot air at my feet. Vacuum testing the A/C system now to see if it can hold a charge. System was completely empty.
Saturday I’ll dig into the electrical to look into dash lights and other inop systems.
This car sat for 5 years and has a bad case of the sits.
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Stan???? Your expertise required here.
With the cost of “correct” Breather caps as much as $59 bucks.... went with this:
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Sorry to burst your bubble but I'm at Apprentice level at best. Little chance of Journeyman and forget about Master all together.
The only point I can say with confidence is that people are not aware that there are two ATC II systems. The latter ATC II, which was introduced for the 1974 MY. Two different designs and two different troubleshooting methods. I have both the ATC II (73 and earlier) and the ATC II (74 & up) manuals. The biggest difference is that the Mercedes repair parts are only applicable to the earlier ATC II.
Dang.....glad both of mine are manual A/C systems......
I guess I’m on my own. bubble completely burst.....
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Good news and bad today.
Good news: carb is not leaking.... dare I say maybe fixed.
No more oil leak from the valve covers.
Vacuum tested the A/C system and it held so I dumped two cans of Freon into it.
Bad: Compressor sucked it down kind of slow but got it to 19 lbs before is started acting funny. I’m thinking it has one of those funny intake regulatory valves in the head that may be bad or the compressor just gave up the ghost. Either way it sucks (or in this case doesn’t suck enough). Went to put in the next 12 oz. of freon and the needle on the suction (low) side popped up which is normal. The abnormal part is it stopped sucking the can. When I closed off the line to the can it just stayed at 100. High side stayed at 130 which is fine since it is so low on gas. Then, after about a minute, the low side gauge started dropping in bounced steps down to 22 lbs holding the high now at 150.
Also, this car has the worlds smallest dryer which looks to be partially plugged. Temp accross it drops 40 degrees at least. So I’m going to need to evacuate the system, flush it, and replace the dryer and probably change the compressor.
My diagnosis is that starting it up has kicked up what ever minor debris into that teeny tiny dryer and the EPR valve in the compressor is closing off the intake because it is failing.
I’m going to leave it charged over night to see if EPR valve goes back to working. I’ve seen it happen before on systems that have been low for a long time where the valve just needs time to recharge. If not, it’s clogged.
Here’s some pictures of the progress
First can is in and system is holding pressure with engine off and no loss.
Well at least the carb stopped leaking...
I always change out the he valves to the system before charging.... nothing like getting It running perfectly only to disconnect the lines and find a leaking valve.
While waiting to see if vacuum and pressure held... worked on removing another bit of rub strip backing from the passenger front door. Sort of like picking a huge scab... ok so that’s kind of gross.... but you understand the therapeutic value.
Here’s a video of the gauges. Low side is on the left. Tell me what you see... it appears to go down in steps. It is now bouncing down to 80 and up to 100.... like it wants to work... will update with video of that tomorrow.
Good news: carb is not leaking.... dare I say maybe fixed.
No more oil leak from the valve covers.
Vacuum tested the A/C system and it held so I dumped two cans of Freon into it.
Bad: Compressor sucked it down kind of slow but got it to 19 lbs before is started acting funny. I’m thinking it has one of those funny intake regulatory valves in the head that may be bad or the compressor just gave up the ghost. Either way it sucks (or in this case doesn’t suck enough). Went to put in the next 12 oz. of freon and the needle on the suction (low) side popped up which is normal. The abnormal part is it stopped sucking the can. When I closed off the line to the can it just stayed at 100. High side stayed at 130 which is fine since it is so low on gas. Then, after about a minute, the low side gauge started dropping in bounced steps down to 22 lbs holding the high now at 150.
Also, this car has the worlds smallest dryer which looks to be partially plugged. Temp accross it drops 40 degrees at least. So I’m going to need to evacuate the system, flush it, and replace the dryer and probably change the compressor.
My diagnosis is that starting it up has kicked up what ever minor debris into that teeny tiny dryer and the EPR valve in the compressor is closing off the intake because it is failing.
I’m going to leave it charged over night to see if EPR valve goes back to working. I’ve seen it happen before on systems that have been low for a long time where the valve just needs time to recharge. If not, it’s clogged.
Here’s some pictures of the progress
First can is in and system is holding pressure with engine off and no loss.
Well at least the carb stopped leaking...
I always change out the he valves to the system before charging.... nothing like getting It running perfectly only to disconnect the lines and find a leaking valve.
While waiting to see if vacuum and pressure held... worked on removing another bit of rub strip backing from the passenger front door. Sort of like picking a huge scab... ok so that’s kind of gross.... but you understand the therapeutic value.
Here’s a video of the gauges. Low side is on the left. Tell me what you see... it appears to go down in steps. It is now bouncing down to 80 and up to 100.... like it wants to work... will update with video of that tomorrow.
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MarPar
Meat Man with a Hat
What is that rattle in the background, Javi?
btw, it is therapeutic for me to see you take those damn rub strips off too
-Mayito {being from Coral Gables you might get that one
)
btw, it is therapeutic for me to see you take those damn rub strips off too
-Mayito {being from Coral Gables you might get that one
)
Bad bearing in the idler.... on the list.What is that rattle in the background, Javi?
btw, it is therapeutic for me to see you take those damn rub strips off too
-Mayito {being from Coral Gables you might get that one
After sleeping on it. I’m now thinking I need to add expansion valve to list of items to replace.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I think my NYB is on its 4th one now since I have owned it. Receipts from previous owner show several replacements as well.
Thanks Stan. Good to know. Looks to be a weak link in the system. Not at all like my 73. I guess the block version is easier to change and mother Mopar made the valve cheaper.
How often did you change that itsy bitsy dryer??
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
2x but not because they failed but because I worked on the system.
I always replace the receiver/dryer and the expansion valve when I work on the A/C system. I took my A/C hoses to Benz Hydraulics in Bear, Delaware and had them rebuilt.
Today I got a late start with repairs to the House A/C and honey do’s coming first.
And I was tired..... long week. But a good one.
Car starts fairly easy. Pump, hold throttle 1/4 and fire. Checked the A/C and the dryer is good and plugged up. Acting as an expansion valve. The screen for the EPR is probably plugged up too. So I ordered a compressor (RV2 10.25 cu.in. same as the wagon), bearing for the idler wheel, expansion valve, and Dryer, of course, Freon, two quart cans of a/c flush..... I’ll get some cold out if it.... don’t you worry about that.
Debating reinstalling the EPR. None of my other mopars have it as I’ve installed thermostatic compressor switches as my poor mans version of ATC. But this one actually has an ATC... inop to be sure. Budget of $2k is definitely now in severe peril. $3k should do it. But we’ll see.
Hey ... it only costs 3 times as much to go first class.
Started the Investigation of the dash lights.
Started by looking into the FSM. It calls out the circuit as #1 on the fuse panel and fed from the switch. Fuse was good but no power. Head lights and running lights all work.
If I put power to the circuit the dash and clock lights come on so it’s got to be the switch. Next parts order.... got tired and went home after late lunch
Started by getting the FSM Manual and looking for the circuit that tigress the dash lights. Hooked up my tester and it was off to the races.
Dash lights power comes through the switch before getting to the fuse panel. Fuse was good but no power to the panel. Either switch is bad or the contact/plugs are loose. Either way, I’m digging into the dash for this one.
Man is it tight down there!!!!! Found the fuse box but to my surprise, also found one of the ATC lines tied up around the rest of them. Hmmmm more research tonight.
Since I went home early, I took a short nap as no one was home and it was quiet. Had been meaning to change the fuel rail on the Citroën and you can see why. I found a good used one and just got it back from cad plating.
Ok..... so it’s not my NYB but don’t she look purtty with the new bling? You think working on the NYB is hard. This little bit of work took me two hours.
And I was tired..... long week. But a good one.
Car starts fairly easy. Pump, hold throttle 1/4 and fire. Checked the A/C and the dryer is good and plugged up. Acting as an expansion valve. The screen for the EPR is probably plugged up too. So I ordered a compressor (RV2 10.25 cu.in. same as the wagon), bearing for the idler wheel, expansion valve, and Dryer, of course, Freon, two quart cans of a/c flush..... I’ll get some cold out if it.... don’t you worry about that.
Debating reinstalling the EPR. None of my other mopars have it as I’ve installed thermostatic compressor switches as my poor mans version of ATC. But this one actually has an ATC... inop to be sure. Budget of $2k is definitely now in severe peril. $3k should do it. But we’ll see.
Hey ... it only costs 3 times as much to go first class.
Started the Investigation of the dash lights.
Started by looking into the FSM. It calls out the circuit as #1 on the fuse panel and fed from the switch. Fuse was good but no power. Head lights and running lights all work.
If I put power to the circuit the dash and clock lights come on so it’s got to be the switch. Next parts order.... got tired and went home after late lunch
Started by getting the FSM Manual and looking for the circuit that tigress the dash lights. Hooked up my tester and it was off to the races.
Dash lights power comes through the switch before getting to the fuse panel. Fuse was good but no power to the panel. Either switch is bad or the contact/plugs are loose. Either way, I’m digging into the dash for this one.
Man is it tight down there!!!!! Found the fuse box but to my surprise, also found one of the ATC lines tied up around the rest of them. Hmmmm more research tonight.
Since I went home early, I took a short nap as no one was home and it was quiet. Had been meaning to change the fuel rail on the Citroën and you can see why. I found a good used one and just got it back from cad plating.
Ok..... so it’s not my NYB but don’t she look purtty with the new bling? You think working on the NYB is hard. This little bit of work took me two hours.
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