3175375
Senior Member
Good responses!
Ceveat Emptor
Ceveat Emptor
Wil: You know how I feel about Fram filters. . . Just sayin. . .
I know Rip.... Your entitled to your opinion. Mine is based on my own 50+ years of experience.
i only ue mopar filters never had a issue i buy mine from walmartI changed the oil in my 64 Imperial recently
I looked for a purolator filter, because that's what the FSM recommended, but couldn't find one, and bought a NAPA brand
Since then I can hear lifters tick for a few seconds after a cold start up
If I'm right, some filters have a check valve to keep oil from draining down, others do not
Could the oil filter be the cause of the tick on start up? And what filter do you recommend?
It didn't do it, or at least not as bad, before I changed the oil
Using a conventional 10w 30 oil, not too sure about the zinc content
i only ue mopar filters never had a issue i buy mine from walmart
Me too, Wil. . . Me too.
Using a modern "conventional" 10w30 in a car with flat tappets is a recipe for disaster. Everybody knows or should know that the zinc and manganese in "old" oils provide the wear properties that flat tappet engines require. Toddle on over to your local GM dealer. They sell an "Engine Oil Supplement" - mainly as a break-in oil on an engine rebuild. The stuff is chock full of zinc and manganese. I bought a case of twelve bottles years ago and am still working my way through them. About 1/4 of one bottle is all that's needed for an oil change. If you want to hear how effective this stuff is, do an oil change with modern oil, start the car up and then pour in the EOS. You'll HEAR the engine quiet down. One bottle of the GM EOS is about $6-7bucks. Over four oil changes, it's chump change. Forget all the high dollar purple and other funny color oils out there that claim to have lots of zinc in them. This stuff WORKS.I changed the oil in my 64 Imperial recently
I looked for a purolator filter, because that's what the FSM recommended, but couldn't find one, and bought a NAPA brand
Since then I can hear lifters tick for a few seconds after a cold start up
If I'm right, some filters have a check valve to keep oil from draining down, others do not
Could the oil filter be the cause of the tick on start up? And what filter do you recommend?
It didn't do it, or at least not as bad, before I changed the oil
Using a conventional 10w 30 oil, not too sure about the zinc content
I know Rip. We've both seen a lot of oil flow into the drain pan......
And. . . On the garage floor !!
That goes without saying .......
I can tell some brands just by the flavor.
There were problems with Fram filters for Cummins 5.9 diesels with the filter media breaking down and clogging up the oil passages, leading to engine failure. I also heard of Fram filter casings for Cummins exploding because they couldn't contain the oil pressure.There is no "VoDo" on Fram filters. Fake news.....! Fram is my filter of choice. I've been changing oil since the early 60's, never had one fail. (I did have a Puralator blow apart once), due to a defective crimp on the can, I think). I have seen some others fail also. Having had a career in professional racing, (drag racing and circuit track), the primary oil filter used was Fram.
Bottom line.... Price shop, good quality oil and regular oil changes.
I use Lucas "TB Zinc Plus", available at Napa. Similar to your additive, a quarter of the bottle provides adequate zinc for one oil change.Using a modern "conventional" 10w30 in a car with flat tappets is a recipe for disaster. Everybody knows or should know that the zinc and manganese in "old" oils provide the wear properties that flat tappet engines require. Toddle on over to your local GM dealer. They sell an "Engine Oil Supplement" - mainly as a break-in oil on an engine rebuild. The stuff is chock full of zinc and manganese. I bought a case of twelve bottles years ago and am still working my way through them. About 1/4 of one bottle is all that's needed for an oil change. If you want to hear how effective this stuff is, do an oil change with modern oil, start the car up and then pour in the EOS. You'll HEAR the engine quiet down. One bottle of the GM EOS is about $6-7bucks. Over four oil changes, it's chump change. Forget all the high dollar purple and other funny color oils out there that claim to have lots of zinc in them. This stuff WORKS.
Using a modern "conventional" 10w30 in a car with flat tappets is a recipe for disaster. Everybody knows or should know that the zinc and manganese in "old" oils provide the wear properties that flat tappet engines require. Toddle on over to your local GM dealer. They sell an "Engine Oil Supplement" - mainly as a break-in oil on an engine rebuild. The stuff is chock full of zinc and manganese.
One bottle of the GM EOS is about $6-7bucks. Over four oil changes, it's chump change. Forget all the high dollar purple and other funny color oils out there that claim to have lots of zinc in them. This stuff WORKS.
The short answer is that running a synthetic filter with conventional oil will work fine and may be beneficial.I've noticed filters made for use with synthetic oils. Are these a good idea for use with conventoinal oils? LC