Overheating problem with Madeline

I would start with the radiator cap. It would be crazy to recore or replace the radiator and the cap was the problem all along. I had it happen to me this last spring.......

I would check (like Dave mentioned) and replace the thermostat anyways. I also replaced the thermostat housing...mine was leaking. I replaced it with a billet aluminum one that will never be a problem again.

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Side note: I replaced the water pump and all the hoses and belts too. Cheap cooling insurance and peace of mind that I know those components are totally squared away when I made that 3,000 mile road trip from Baltimore to Green Bay and around the Midwest and back this past summer.
 
thermo was repl yesterday.........there is a radiator shop (or at least it used to be radiators) right across the street from my in-laws, will talk to them later this week and see what they say. i am 100% sure there is some corrosion inside, just wondering if it is not a better idea to just repl the radiator. That is, if I can find a 3 core that bolts right in! did some nosing around yesterday, no luck. this being a 22" kills me, 26" is found anywhere.
 
I also replaced the thermostat housing...mine was leaking. I replaced it with a billet aluminum one that will never be a problem again. .


Why do you "always replace the housing" Bob? Curious, I never had a need to........
 
i am 100% sure there is some corrosion inside, just wondering if it is not a better idea to just repl the radiator. That is, if I can find a 3 core that bolts right in! did some nosing around yesterday, no luck. this being a 22" kills me, 26" is found anywhere.

Replace it with what? An aftermarket piece? An original used piece?

When was the last time the system was flushed?
 
If you replace the rad completely keep the old with the car because its got the right part number on it and a date code stamped on one of the side frames. I'd just recore the original. Better yet you take the original to the rad shop they might be able to boil it out and not have to recore at all.
 
Why do you "always replace the housing" Bob? Curious, I never had a need to........

They are always porous, pitted, and corroded around the sealing surface. Looks like it was sitting in salt water for 50 years and doesn't have a sealing surface that I'm satisfied with after cleaning it up. They always have that funky green seeping buildup around them. I never have a problem with seeps, leaks, or corrosion with the billet aluminum housing.
 
Dave - aftermarket, an orig used pc will be impossible to find.....it was flushed last year.

we will see what the shop says.
 
Absolutely, I've had that done successfully at least twice.
 
They are always porous, pitted, and corroded around the sealing surface. Looks like it was sitting in salt water for 50 years and doesn't have a sealing surface that I'm satisfied with after cleaning it up. They always have that funky green seeping buildup around them. I never have a problem with seeps, leaks, or corrosion with the billet aluminum housing.

you explained the cond of mine to a tee Bob......but believe it or not I brushed it off and got it going w/o leaking. prob going to repl it though, might as well do things right.
 
They are always porous, pitted, and corroded around the sealing surface. Looks like it was sitting in salt water for 50 years and doesn't have a sealing surface that I'm satisfied with after cleaning it up. They always have that funky green seeping buildup around them. I never have a problem with seeps, leaks, or corrosion with the billet aluminum housing.

Yeah, they do do that. Something to consider when doing an unoriginal car, hopefully thats soon.
 
If you replace the rad completely keep the old with the car because its got the right part number on it and a date code stamped on one of the side frames. I'd just recore the original. Better yet you take the original to the rad shop they might be able to boil it out and not have to recore at all.

Really? That can be done?

Usually the bottom of the core has sediment that settles and is like cement. I haven't been lucky enough to have one boiled out that worked getting the sediment out and had to always recore it or get a new radiator.
 
Aftermarket.................? ....................... :urkidding:

agreed...........another problem, moron had to order with the radiator that nobody makes, tried 3 major manufacturers, cannot find one. the part # only fits a 1970 c body 22" non-AC car.
 
agreed...........another problem, moron had to order with the radiator that nobody makes, tried 3 major manufacturers, cannot find one. the part # only fits a 1970 c body 22" non-AC car.

Only a 70? Why only a 70?
 
dunno.....but that's what the part # shows as. part # is 2998969.

would love to find an NOS one
 
Yeah, they do do that. Something to consider when doing an unoriginal car, hopefully thats soon.

you explained the cond of mine to a tee Bob......but believe it or not I brushed it off and got it going w/o leaking. prob going to repl it though, might as well do things right.

Something so simple (replacing the thermostat) is major PITA because I have to unbolt the damn compressor to get to one of the thermostat bolts and not knowing for sure if that crappy thermostat housing is going seal made me decide to use the billet aluminum housing and be done with it forever.

The billet aluminum was only $25 from 440 Source.....

I know some people don't like 440 Source... but what the hell, they can't FU a thermostat housing. I also got the stainless ARP bolts too.

Mission complete...no more worries.

http://store.440source.com/Water-Necks-Thermostat-Housings/products/72/
 
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