$400 for a recore (done right) would be cheap. The guy with 71 SFGT that was parked next to me at the Mason-Dixon Mopar show paid $750 to have his radiator recored.
Overheating problem with Madeline
- Thread starter mdh157
- Start date
mdh157
Senior Member
yes........but it is apparent i'm going to get stabbed in the wallet either way.
$750 ain't happening, i'll have the car modded before i do that.
$750 ain't happening, i'll have the car modded before i do that.
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
The local shop near me has done three for me over the years. The most recent was maybe four years ago and the tab was $400, that was on the convertible
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
Time to put it up for sale Mark
mdh157
Senior Member
sounds like a plan........maybe one of the guys from Finland will want it, I'll go back to a fox body Mustang, at least I can get parts for it instead of having to use my reg car on a day like today. Or I can find that guy who had the nos rad support for a 26" rad.......prob gone by now though.
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azblackhemi
Old Man with a Hat
It's not NOS but I have a good used core support for a 26" radiator that came out of a 70 Polara. If you want it it's yours for the price of the shipping.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Not to sound stupid or nothing but the 22" and the 26" radiators each have their own radiator support?
I don't remember that on any of my Slabbies.
I don't remember that on any of my Slabbies.
azblackhemi
Old Man with a Hat
Yes. The opening for the radiator is the only difference I believe. On B & E bodies with the welded on core supports all you do is change the closeout on the passenger side. Of course you have to drill out spot welds and then weld it back in. On this 69 RR I changed it from a 22" to a 26".
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commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Still not 100% clear.
Fusies: Different radiator supports for 22" and 26" radiators.
Slabs: 22 and 26 used same support.
How am I doing?
Don't talk to me about A's/B's and all them. Gums up my comprehension intake.
Fusies: Different radiator supports for 22" and 26" radiators.
Slabs: 22 and 26 used same support.
How am I doing?
Don't talk to me about A's/B's and all them. Gums up my comprehension intake.
mdh157
Senior Member
Thank you for the offer Chris, but let me see what the radiator shop says first. Assuming that shop I'm thinking of is still a rad shop, i'll pull it sometime this week and drop it off and see if they can boil it out.
I also ran it a bit today and noticed something else: the coolant does not show to be circulating until the gauge gets up to abt 75-80% of the way to being pegged on H. I know the stat is working fine, so isn't that showing a lot hotter than it should if the stat is kicking open @ 195? you'd think it was opening abt 220 from watching the gauge/circulation.
I also ran it a bit today and noticed something else: the coolant does not show to be circulating until the gauge gets up to abt 75-80% of the way to being pegged on H. I know the stat is working fine, so isn't that showing a lot hotter than it should if the stat is kicking open @ 195? you'd think it was opening abt 220 from watching the gauge/circulation.
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polara71
Old Man with a Hat
Cant speak for slabbies Stan but Yes, Marks Polara has a support for a 22" radiator, the one in the photo is for a 26", they are different
azblackhemi
Old Man with a Hat
I'm not sure on the slabs Stan but the opening has to be different to fit the radiator. Most of the slabs I've had were A/C cars with the 26" radiators so I cant remember anything different.
livininharrow
Senior Member
a 25 to 30 degree temp. drop would be normal with the engine up to temp and fluid moving through the stat and the rad. . if this is so than the rad is not to blame. does this car have a/c with a plugged condenser possibly. just a thought.
mdh157
Senior Member
non-AC car......at this point we have 4 poss culprits........bad gauge, sending unit, pump or rad. rad def has some buildup in it so having it cleaned out won't hurt
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
mdh157
Senior Member
i did, yes......and i can see some white'ish crud inside the radiator so that is the first thing i'm going to address, then we'll take it from there. cm23 had a suggestion there with the poss of the ump fins being corroded, esp after seeing the condition of the gooseneck.
rush
Active Member
Don't buy one of these soft steel ones they might look good but as you can see they bend.
mdh157
Senior Member
WOW........I think I will end up going with one of the alum ones Bob suggested.
going to call the shop tomorrow AM
going to call the shop tomorrow AM
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