Popping through exhaust on acceleration

[mr gtx]

yes no load at idle. read post 17. also pull some plugs to read.

 

[polarnj]

yes no load at idle. read post 17. also pull some plugs to read.

will do thx

Any chance it can be carb related? I ask because it's so intermittent. I drove back to my house for over 20 minutes and it ran without any misfires

 

[polarnj]

yes no load at idle. read post 17. also pull some plugs to read.

will do thx

Any chance it can be carb related? I ask because it's so intermittent. I drove back to my house for over 20 minutes and it ran without any misfires. Accelerated a lot faster and smoother as well

 

[mr gtx]

will do thx

Any chance it can be carb related? I ask because it's so intermittent. I drove back to my house for over 20 minutes and it ran without any misfires. Accelerated a lot faster and smoother as well

it could be. you need to eliminate the easy things first. you're not doing anything to try to diagnose the problem. check cap and rotor, check wires in the dark are very easy to do. change the fuel filter. i would think if it was running too cold because of the thermostat it would do it right away and get better when you drive it.

 

[Grannys67]

Loose Distributor hold down bolt? - could cause the intermittent problem as it jigges/rotates slightly...

then Hit it with the timing light

 

[wyrmrider]

Loose Distributor hold down bolt? - could cause the intermittent problem as it jigges/rotates slightly...

then Hit it with the timing light

if you have carbon core wires they can arc under the wire cover the more they arc the bigger the gap they can arc with no load but acr and not fire when under load

 

[polarnj]

Loose Distributor hold down bolt? - could cause the intermittent problem as it jigges/rotates slightly...

then Hit it with the timing light

Will definitely check that thx

 

[polarnj]

if you have carbon core wires they can arc under the wire cover the more they arc the bigger the gap they can arc with no load but acr and not fire when under load

The wires are orange and they say "Mopar electronic suppression" on them

 

[polarnj]

Will definitely check that thx

Checked the hold down clamps, they appear to be ok

 

[polarnj]

it could be. you need to eliminate the easy things first. you're not doing anything to try to diagnose the problem. check cap and rotor, check wires in the dark are very easy to do. change the fuel filter. i would think if it was running too cold because of the thermostat it would do it right away and get better when you drive it.

Haven't run it again yet but I pulled the cap, nothing unusual inside the cap. I did notice that the weights inside appear to be stuck in place, would it be that way if I have the non-points electronic ignition (the one on the firewall)?

Plug wires are bright orange color (says "Mopar electronic suppression" ) and I don't see any burn marks or anything unusual so far. Waiting for better weather so I can drive it again

 

[Gerald Morris]

The wires are orange and they say "Mopar electronic suppression" on them

Good Heavens! Those might be original! Very nice from collector POV, very shitty when considering driving 50+ yr old plug wires. Consider replacing these.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Haven't run it again yet but I pulled the cap, nothing unusual inside the cap. I did notice that the weights inside appear to be stuck in place, would it be that way if I have the non-points electronic ignition (the one on the firewall)?

Plug wires are bright orange color (says "Mopar electronic suppression" ) and I don't see any burn marks or anything unusual so far. Waiting for better weather so I can drive it again

Points or no, advance weights should be MOBILE! They're held in place by little springs which stretch as the engine's angular acceleration ("rpms") increases. If indeed the mech advance is STUCK, you will have sub-optimal ignition performance. Clean the distributor, thoroughly or replace it.

 

[polarnj]

Points or no, advance weights should be MOBILE! They're held in place by little springs which stretch as the engine's angular acceleration ("rpms") increases. If indeed the mech advance is STUCK, you will have sub-optimal ignition performance. Clean the distributor, thoroughly or replace it.

Hmm, interesting. Do the advance weights only come into play at certain speeds?
Is there any way to free them up?

 

[polarnj]

Good Heavens! Those might be original! Very nice from collector POV, very shitty when considering driving 50+ yr old plug wires. Consider replacing these.

I think they are recent, very bright and clean looking. Maybe repros or something?

 

[Dubledeuce]

1969 with 383 and Edelbrock carb. It was previously doing it maybe 1 time per ride, now I took it out yesterday and it was doing it the whole time (about 25 minutes)

Anything more than halfway down the gas pedal it pops several times through the exhaust when accelerating, and then it goes on its way until the next time I press the gas more than halfway down. Doesn't seem to be an issue at idle.

When it happens you can kind of feel it loading up before it does so.

Choke is disconnected and according to the PO I have no thermostat either. Could it be that it's because it's so cold outside? Temp was in the lower 30s yesterday.

However, my ride home going the same distance it suddenly started running better, which it sometimes does.

I would check the point gap in the distributor. It is a common occurance if the gap is diminished by a worn rub block or a mis adjusted point set. Be prepared als to replace them if they have more than 10,000 miles on them.

If this fails to solve your problem I would next look at a worn camshaft lobe. A worn lobe will cause a lesser volume of air into that particular cylinder causing a leaning of the mixture, causing that popping noise upon acceleration.

Post what you find.

Darrow...for the Prosecution

 

[polarnj]

I would check the point gap in the distributor. It is a common occurance if the gap is diminished by a worn rub block or a mis adjusted point set. Be prepared als to replace them if they have more than 10,000 miles on them.

If this fails to solve your problem I would next look at a worn camshaft lobe. A worn lobe will cause a lesser volume of air into that particular cylinder causing a leaning of the mixture, causing that popping noise upon acceleration.

Post what you find.

Darrow...for the Prosecution

It has the non-points electronic ignition, so that wouldn't be an issue. Hopefully not a cam issue, but this just started recently and seems to be worse the colder it is outside, at least I think so

Strangely, after I replaced the the HD fan clutch with the regular one it seemed to go down, at least on the ride home. Only did it once at the beginning, and then didn't do it for the whole 20 minute ride home.

 

[polarnj]

Points or no, advance weights should be MOBILE! They're held in place by little springs which stretch as the engine's angular acceleration ("rpms") increases. If indeed the mech advance is STUCK, you will have sub-optimal ignition performance. Clean the distributor, thoroughly or replace it.

Could I disconnect the advance and drive that way to test it out? What is a good way to test it?

 

[polara71]

I had a bad ballast resistor create similar symptoms.

 

[polarnj]

I took some pics not the greatest but still decent, which part is supposed to move? Looks like an electrical connector attached to the block in back

 

[polarnj]

I had a bad ballast resistor create similar symptoms.

where would that be located?