commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Well, boys. Look like we're going to have to blast.
Press out Imperial UCA Bushings
- Thread starter vdk2010
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70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
On the LCA, after you press the pivot out( you did this), and the rubber comes out. There is still a sleeve in the LCA that needs to come out, it is a pain in the a$$. Put 2 washers in the sleeve, and fold the lip over to trap the washers. Then press the sleeve out from the torsion bar hex hole in the bottom/end.
For the uppers I would place one of the half round spacers from your kit in against the shaft making sure it pushes on the sleeves. Then put a bolt through the hole in the shaft to push on the spacer, you will have to fiddle with this to get it to line up and take the pressure. Then put a nut on the end of the shaft and press down on the nut/shaft to not damage the threads. Control arm in press with shaft vertical.
Hope that helps.
For the uppers I would place one of the half round spacers from your kit in against the shaft making sure it pushes on the sleeves. Then put a bolt through the hole in the shaft to push on the spacer, you will have to fiddle with this to get it to line up and take the pressure. Then put a nut on the end of the shaft and press down on the nut/shaft to not damage the threads. Control arm in press with shaft vertical.
Hope that helps.
Nice press, you certainly bought a lot of universal kits for this stuff. The push/pull bushing kit looks somewhat useful when you have no bar in your way. I'm thinking to MacGyver the first bushing off you might be able to use a bearing spliter and your press
I wonder if the FSM has a tool for this?
Split pieces like this kit would be held together by the sleeve and may allow you to grip the outer lip of a bushing to pull it. BTW I used EB for my examples and this kit seemed link worthy in case someone knew what it is and need it.
There are lots of specialty sleeve type gear/bearing pullers for any manufacturer, but they are hard to figure out what they're for without the FSM that calls for their use. We do have moments of MacGyvering the ones we have laying around, or there are aftermarket universal types too like this one.
Which brings me to my next thought... If it all gets too much and you want to outsource this effort, try an established transmission shop. The various pullers they have for manual transmission work may allow them to do this... and they would be pretty good at using a press without chipping a gear too, so this might seem easy to them.
Dave has the right ideas... I just didn't see any split pieces in your kits. I mix and match every pulling tool in the box when I'm trying to do bushings... Will's torch idea will get you there too. Hope I was useful...
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Looking at it again. I think you can just use.the shaft to push out the opposite side bushing by pushing it straight through the side you are pushing from. These should not be too hard to move, I did them with a big old bench vice before I had a press. Of course those were on the cars without the pivot shaft.
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That pivot shaft complicates things. I was already 2 hands short when I did mine or I would have taken a pic of the contraption I put together to remove mine.
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Crude? Very much so but it worked.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Matt's idea will work in press also I think subbing press for BFHammer.
Thanks Matt! Awesome picture!
One picture is worth ten thousand words! As you said, you could've never discriped that this easy!I will try that next week on my parts. My friend with his 70 Imperial is now here and we are working on his car until Tuesday.
We successfully removed both LCAs and pressed out the old bushings, removed the sway bar, the strud rods and the tie rods. Tomorrow, we will remove the upper ball joints and mybe the uca to replace the bushings. But only if we have enough time left. If not ,we will do the uca on another session.
Unfotunately , the shaft would just bent the sleeve and would make it even harder to get the bushing out :/
These split peace tool looks awesome, I wish I these, they would definitely ease things up. But I don't have those
I understand what you mean now. After doing exactly that yesterday, just with one of the "puks" from one of the toolkits I have inside instead of the washers.
It was time consuming to fold the edges over but that worked very well!!!
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I’d do it all over again if I had a lift!
saylor
Senior Member
if you are in that far ^^ i hope you do find the time to do the upper CAs. thats like taking a shower and forgetting to wash your *** - you will just have to get back in and do it anyways.
i hope that is a good analogy.
try not to die -
- saylor
i hope that is a good analogy.
try not to die -
- saylor
bluefury361
Old Man with a Hat
Great idea Matt. I might add to it by welding a tube large enough to slide the handle end of the pickle fork into, to the base it sets on. Eliminates the third hand.
Kernel Sanders
Member
your not going to hurt the lower control arm shaft in the slightest hitting the sleeve. the sleeve is soft metal while the shaft is significantly harder.
We went the angle grinder way and it worked flawlessly! Thanks for all your help!
Bending in the edges worked really well.
First, we used a chisel but it was cutting more then bending the metal. Then we switched to the press and it was much better!
Cleaned everything as good as possible in out timeframe.
And after all new bushings and ball joints were pressed in, ...
we finally painted everything with POR15.
Bending in the edges worked really well.
First, we used a chisel but it was cutting more then bending the metal. Then we switched to the press and it was much better!
Cleaned everything as good as possible in out timeframe.
And after all new bushings and ball joints were pressed in, ...
we finally painted everything with POR15.
It was really time to do the LCA Bushings, because there was no rubber left on the underside, the car was riding metal on metal.
Because we didn't had enough time left we skipped the Upper Control Arm Bushings. They were still tight and intact. We are planning on doing them next year.
But we did change the upper Ball joints because the one on the passenger side had a little bit play. I'm pretty sure they were the factory ball joints. The passenger side was really easy, streight out with the old and in with the new.
But the left one was cross threaded. We had to use a 1" breakerbar with a 2 meter pipe as an extension and barely made it with 2 guys. What a pita..!
We finished everything for my buddy to drive home to Holland in time for work next day!
Because we didn't had enough time left we skipped the Upper Control Arm Bushings. They were still tight and intact. We are planning on doing them next year.
But we did change the upper Ball joints because the one on the passenger side had a little bit play. I'm pretty sure they were the factory ball joints. The passenger side was really easy, streight out with the old and in with the new.
But the left one was cross threaded. We had to use a 1" breakerbar with a 2 meter pipe as an extension and barely made it with 2 guys. What a pita..!
We finished everything for my buddy to drive home to Holland in time for work next day!
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Time for an alignment! Nice work to you both!
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
That makes a huge difference when the rubber is back in, compared to metal to metal.
Glad the folding it over worked for you.
Glad the folding it over worked for you.
Time for an alignment! Nice work to you both!
Thanks! And yes, he will do the allignment back home in Holland!
It was a very labor intensive but fun and educational weekend!
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