Pro-Street 66 Fury is going through a few changes.

Greasemonkey, I would suggest a hydraulic lift to open the stock hood LOL, not only is the stock hood extremely heavy it will have a ton of leverage on the actuators.

I purchased two pneumatic (gas) 22" lift arms for a fiberglass toneau cover they each have 37lbs of lifting force which gets diminished by the orientation/ geometry of placement. I thought about going to the hinge but there is not enough space or area for a clean install and the arms would have to be very strong but short which makes them more expensive. my hood only weighs 34lbs but when you lift it on the hinges it feels like more because of leverage. when I get them I will photograph the install.
 
AcreageAircooled said:
Greasemonkey, I would suggest a hydraulic lift to open the stock hood LOL, not only is the stock hood extremely heavy it will have a ton of leverage on the actuators.

I purchased two pneumatic (gas) 22" lift arms for a fiberglass toneau cover they each have 37lbs of lifting force which gets diminished by the orientation/ geometry of placement. I thought about going to the hinge but there is not enough space or area for a clean install and the arms would have to be very strong but short which makes them more expensive. my hood only weighs 34lbs but when you lift it on the hinges it feels like more because of leverage. when I get them I will photograph the install.
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I've got a pretty good estimate of the factory hood for my 67 NYer being around 75 lbs,so it's close to double the weight of your fiberglass hood.Looking forward to seeing some pics.For now,things are just in the design stage,so I'll see how things progress.
 
Henry, where did you purchase the scoops? When you have some time, can you take some pictures of the rear setup, trunk, interior shots please. The Dana 60 has been shortened and you mini tubed it, correct? Again, one of the coolest badass 66 Fury's around.
 
Thanks Tallhair, 66 Sport, The scoop was purchased at a local swap meet, actually I bought two of them, still have one for sale, They were a very thin fiberglass bond on style scoop that I modified by laying it up thicker and taller and I added a flange for 1/4 20 bolts, so it is a proper looking bolt on scoop. It is a 64 Max wedge style scoop that several fiberglass companies make in different manners. I chose it because the backside mimics the decklid on our 66 Fury's perfectly.

Here are a couple of build pics of the tubs I can send more but probably better to e-mail them direct to you. modelmakerinc@att.net 047.jpg098.jpg102.jpg103.jpg

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What are you asking for the scoop and can you send me a picture of the new one please? You can email me the information.

You do really nice work and man I just dig your ride. Very badass! I will PM you my email address. I'd like to put together a scrap book of your car. I've done one for my car already. I love this **** and been a MOPAR freak since I could drive. I've owned a lot of them. Thanks for posting the pictures of the trunk and all.
 
spent an hour after work today modifying my rear hood pins, I don't want to do body and paint to the hood again so instead of filling the rear hoodpin holes I made "fake" hood pins that will go and stay in. will catch some people off guard and I will probably pull the pin from them a few times until I lose the habit.

fake hood pins.jpg

fake hood pins.jpg
 
AcreageAircooled said:
spent an hour after work today modifying my rear hood pins, I don't want to do body and paint to the hood again so instead of filling the rear hoodpin holes I made "fake" hood pins that will go and stay in. will catch some people off guard and I will probably pull the pin from them a few times until I lose the habit.

View attachment 28259
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Henry, you going to have them plated? Wanted to ask you if you bulkheaded the trunk due to the fuel cell? Lookin good..!
 
They're the pins that I was using that came up through the cowl, I just cut them short to go through the hood and will bond them to the bottom , the chrome is fine on the exposed end.

A tech guy at NHRA told me with a complete back seat and full interior, a sealed metal bulkhead between trunk and passenger compartment was unnecessary, mostly since there is no way to inspect it. I would say if it were a used regularly as a "Race Car" I would have opted to do one. Many trips to the track never has anyone ever asked about it, they do check neutral safety switch, the shutoff switch, helmet and belts usually in that order.
 
BJS racing said:
Do you have an aftermarket shifter? I can tell you how to get around the factory switch if you do.
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Stock shifter. I have no idea what the problem is. Well, I never looked into it yet, but she starts in any position. Yikes!!
 
I bet that some one had an issue with it and took the G terminal on the start relay straight to ground and that is why it does that. Your trans should have a three wire connector that plugs in on the drivers side of the trans behind the shift selector. See if the center terminal is grounded in the park and neutral position and not grounded in reverse and drive. Most people when it stops working even if its a wire problem by pass the nss and just ground the relay. It might be as easy as running a new wire from the relay down to the switch. sorry about the off topic!
 
BJS racing said:
I bet that some one had an issue with it and took the G terminal on the start relay straight to ground and that is why it does that. Your trans should have a three wire connector that plugs in on the drivers side of the trans behind the shift selector. See if the center terminal is grounded in the park and neutral position and not grounded in reverse and drive. Most people when it stops working even if its a wire problem by pass the nss and just ground the relay. It might be as easy as running a new wire from the relay down to the switch. sorry about the off topic!
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Yep the G terminal on the start relay goes straight to ground. Dammit!! I remember doing it when I got the car, because it wouldn't start with the ignition switch no matter were the shifter was. It does start with the ignition switch now, but it's not right the way it is. What should I look for? Maybe PM me so we don't highjack Henry's thread.
 
commando1 said:
Why Newtral Safety Switch?
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Why do they check it at the track? Or why is his not working?

They check them at the track because in the past there were too many problems with someone getting int the car and starting it while it was in gear and running into another car infront of them. It happens. Trust me I've seen it.
 
To be honest at Atco Raceway, they never checked any of my cars for that in the past. But theres always the chance they will. Gotta get it fixed either way. I knew it was broke, but I had other things on the car that I wanted to get done first and I'm used to not having one. I'm used to starting the car in neutral because of the trans that's in it. The builder told me to start it in neutral every time.
 
BJS racing said:
Why do they check it at the track? Or why is his not working?

They check them at the track because in the past there were too many problems with someone getting int the car and starting it while it was in gear and running into another car infront of them. It happens. Trust me I've seen it.
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Those people should not be allowed to breath.
Mandatory Ban on Neutral Safety Switches.
$1,000.00 deposit at the gate refundable when you leave w/o doing it.
It will never happen again.
 
commando1 said:
Those people should not be allowed to breath.
Mandatory Ban on Neutral Safety Switches.
$1,000.00 deposit at the gate refundable when you leave w/o doing it.
It will never happen again.
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Saw a buddies car get almost totaled because the lanes were moving up and he was in the bath room. Someone else got in his car and started it to move it up and it was in low gear ran right into the back of the car in front of it and did over 10K worth of damage just to his car not to mention the other car. The guy that got in his car was no allowed back to that track ever again and I don't know if my buddy ever did get the money from the law suit.
 
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