Pro-Street 66 Fury is going through a few changes.

66SportFury said:
To be honest at Atco Raceway, they never checked any of my cars for that in the past. But theres always the chance they will. Gotta get it fixed either way. I knew it was broke, but I had other things on the car that I wanted to get done first and I'm used to not having one. I'm used to starting the car in neutral because of the trans that's in it. The builder told me to start it in neutral every time.
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There are alot of places that as long as your belts are in date and you have the correct fire equipment they don't check anything. Even if your suit is 20 years old. They check the helmet and the belts and say have a good night. But I do know of some tracks that will check everything just like it was a national event. Believe it or not I prefer to race at those tracks! That way I know at least every precaution is being taken.
 
Henry, please forgive me for the hijack but this story must be told while it's still relevant.
I stepped up to the dispatcher's window to turn in my paperwork when he got interrupted by the phone.
It was Security. They told him one of his trucks was running amuck in the employees parking lot.
Dispatcher had to say "WHAT???" three times and then he looked at me and said "STANLEY GO OUT THERE AND SEE WTF THOSE EFFINGS A-HOLES ARE TALKING ABOUT". I run out there and there's one of our rigs driving around through the parking lot taking out cars like a video game. The whole warehouse comes pouring out and surround the the truck. These guys are animals and they are banging on the cab screaming for his head. A lot of Civics with $2,000.00 wheels were in the carnage. He wouldn't come out and the police had to come and cover him from the cab to the cop car. I said "Dude WTF were you thinking". He said he drove into the parking lot because he forgot his log book.

He wasn't 30 minutes into his first job.
Tested positive.
Never, heard about him again.
 
66SportFury said:
The builder told me to start it in neutral every time.
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Did he say why? My understanding of the 727 is that the pump runs in neutral, but not in park as a way to reduce internal pressures. It's why you check the level in neutral, and why there can be a delay when you shift from park to reverse or drive (if you warm up the car in neutral, the pump is running, and the torque converter is full and there's no delay going into gear).

So logically that tells me that there is more drag on the engine in neutral than park.

Not saying he's wrong, I just want to understand what's going on.

Sorry this isn't a story about car crashes.
 
That is the reason. My car sits for long periods of time. Sometimes months without being fired up. The converter will drain back. There is no fill in park. If you do a search on the 727 trans there are a lot on this subject and TSBs. There are fixes for this but it was an issue I believe from the 60s through the 80s with the 727. I always on any 727 is to start it in park then shift it to neutral and let it sit for about 30 seconds or so then put it back in park. I've been doing it on all my Mopars in the past and never had any issues. Its habit of mine.
 
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Well, in other news........

A little mock up of the strong arms, I bought several sizes and pressure levels and tried different configurations for the lift arm to work right, I tried horizontal pushing forward and vertical pushing up, the tightest, best look is vertical pushing up but it puts pressure on the fiberglass hood to hold it closed, with engine heat cycles and Florida sun it is not a good idea to stress fiberglass in that way. it will move and warp.

Horizontal pushing forward the geometry put me in a catch 22. When the lift arm was long enough to clear the hinge at the close position it was way to strong to pull the hood closed comfortably, when I went to a shorter arm it did not work with the hinge or it wasn't strong enough to hold the hood.

I went with the least attractive but best functioning set-up, Function over Form I guess. it is horizontal pushing back, I will weld the ball end onto the tip of the hinge and the lower bracket will sit tight on the inner fender, when the hood is lifted around 8" up the strong arms take over and lift it to its position. In the closed position the strong arm pushes straight into the hinge, leaving no stress on the hood whatsoever. We have a winner. WP_001641.jpgWP_001642.jpgWP_001643.jpg

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Very nice install Henry. Looks great and you got it function correctly. Nice job man!

I see in the picture above that you have the booster vac line going to the motor. Do you have any issues with your brakes due to low vacuum from the cam you're running? What brake setup are you running? I'm still having issues with my Disc brake setup. Pain in the ***. Been on the phone and emails going back and forth with SSBC for months.
 
Very nice! I really like how you came up with the hinges. It really looks like it is supposed to be there. I have seen the factory do some WTF type of mounting on that kinda stuff. Really liking everything your doing. Of course it is pretty easy when you have probably one of the nicest cars out there!
 
Hey Acreage,looking good! Are you using any kind of metal reinforcement plate underneath that inner fender for the mounting point? I guess you may not need it with a fiberglass hood since your using two hood struts to help equalize pressure. I was considering doing the same thing with linear actuating struts with my stock steel hood. BTW,would you happen to have the measurements of the struts you used in the open and closed positions.Any manufacturer and part numbers would help too. Thanks!
 
66Sport, I had SSBC disk brakes on the rear and a modern aluminum master and went through several configurations and bore size and Bla Bla Bla, Bla, Bla and never did my brakes work as well as they do right now. Of course everything is new or rebuilt but I have Factory 11x2 rear drums, 73 front disk brakes and a 68 C-body power disk brake booster and pedal assembly. the car drives and stops great, Now being 4000 lbs is dosent stop on a dime but it is better than I ever remember.

GreaseMonkey, I used this site to find the gas struts: http://www.siraweb.com/ I measured what I thought would be the appropriate geometry and chose the length that seemed right, 20" with that length in mind I bought a strut with 37 lbs of pressure figuring the manner I was installing the hood would have a lot of leverage against them. they are too weak in one arrangement and they are too strong by a little amount in another. In the vertical arrangement they were almost dead on for lifting and holding the hood, but at collapsed or with the hood shut the arms want to push the hood open at all times and the fiberglass hood would suffer in time.

When the arms are horizontal they push the hinge into the pivot and the base forward on the inner fender, a very stable and strong area they don't push up on the hood until the hood is 6" -8" open then they extend to full open. Here are a couple of pics that show the different placments. If I had a steel hood the vertical scenario would be perfect with a very strong (maybe 80- 100 lb) lift arm
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AcreageAircooled said:
66Sport, I had SSBC disk brakes on the rear and a modern aluminum master and went through several configurations and bore size and Bla Bla Bla, Bla, Bla and never did my brakes work as well as they do right now. Of course everything is new or rebuilt but I have Factory 11x2 rear drums, 73 front disk brakes and a 68 C-body power disk brake booster and pedal assembly. the car drives and stops great, Now being 4000 lbs is dosent stop on a dime but it is better than I ever remember.
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It really has SSBC stumped including myself. They are going to recreate my setup at the SSBC shop to see what the issue could be. Sounds like you had some issue too. I've replaced the master and booster with what they sent me and I'm getting the same result. First press on the brakes,.it stops fine. Second press, pedal is hard, but what I think the issue is,.is that the vacuum pump is not fast enough to recover the 20 inches of vacuum to operate the booster correctly. I did a test and put a vacuum gauge on the vacuum line and when I pressed on the brake pedal, the pump came on and it took about 12 seconds for the pump to recover the vacuum back to 20 inches from 12. I'm thinking of putting in a vacuum canister for more volume. I'm waiting on SSBC to get back to me on their tests.
 
66SportFury said:
It really has SSBC stumped including myself. They are going to recreate my setup at the SSBC shop to see what the issue could be. Sounds like you had some issue too. I've replaced the master and booster with what they sent me and I'm getting the same result. First press on the brakes,.it stops fine. Second press, pedal is hard, but what I think the issue is,.is that the vacuum pump is not fast enough to recover the 20 inches of vacuum to operate the booster correctly. I did a test and put a vacuum gauge on the vacuum line and when I pressed on the brake pedal, the pump came on and it took about 12 seconds for the pump to recover the vacuum back to 20 inches from 12. I'm thinking of putting in a vacuum canister for more volume. I'm waiting on SSBC to get back to me on their tests.
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Have you tried a belt driven or electric vacuum pump?
 
greasemonkeyman said:
Have you tried a belt driven or electric vacuum pump?
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I don't want to highjack this thread, but yes I have an electric pump. Before pressing the brake pedal I have 22" of vacuum. After the first brake press it goes to 12" of vacuum. That is where it's should be, then the pump will start. It takes about 12 seconds for the pump to recover back to 22" and SSBC says that's normal. I'm waiting on SSBC to run tests at this point. Everything in the brake system is new.
 
My impression was that a person, who was having a constant high vacuum use, had to run an electric compressor and a tank so as soon as you shoot your first supply of vacuum needed, it is coming from the reservoir in the tank. As your first supply of vacuum needed, is taken from the reservoir, the compressor is already running and reloading the tank. No recovery time.


Damn you, Ross. I had to go back and edit this three times because of you.
 
66SportFury said:
I don't want to highjack this thread, but yes I have an electric pump. Before pressing the brake pedal I have 22" of vacuum. After the first brake press it goes to 12" of vacuum. That is where it's should be, then the pump will start. It takes about 12 seconds for the pump to recover back to 22" and SSBC says that's normal. I'm waiting on SSBC to run tests at this point. Everything in the brake system is new.
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Have you ever tried a Bosch Hydroboost unit,this may be the answer to all your problems,well,braking problems! Check out their site......http://powerbrakeservice.net/bosch-hydroboost.html
 
Wow Henry, that looks incredible to say the least. Gotta finish her up with linkage and what not! Looking forward to hearing it run. Ya gotta post a video if that's possible? Your car is badass man.
 
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