Pulling rear drum on my 57 Belvedere, which one?

[Rusty Muffler]

Can someone tell me which one will work for sure please? My car has 5 lugs. Just returned one to Amazon that was junk! I think it's called a tapered shaft drum puller?
Also I'd like a wheel cylinder rebuild kit for same wheel, Amazon send me one that looked wrong and with missing pieces. Thanks!!

 

[Lefty71]

Hard to find a decent puller. I bought a new Chinesium one that looked pretty good for the task.... it barely worked to bolt onto the hub the fingers were so fat. Even at that, I thought IT was going to explode before the hubs finally came off. You need to find an old BLUE POINT, SNAP-ON or some other old school tool company version to do the job.

As far as auto parts go, I've never had good luck with amazon...some tools and other stuff, yes, but auto parts....not so good.

OTC Tools 7394 OTC Universal Hub Pullers | Summit Racing

Converting early taper axles/hubs to use later removable brake drums and all RH lug studs.

Dorman 19382, 1-1/8" bore...fits all four corners....can be found at Rockauto

 

[Finsinthemirror]

Scroll down to post 26.

partsforsale

 

[David T. Ellis]

Can someone tell me which one will work for sure please? My car has 5 lugs. Just returned one to Amazon that was junk! I think it's called a tapered shaft drum puller?
Also I'd like a wheel cylinder rebuild kit for same wheel, Amazon send me one that looked wrong and with missing pieces. Thanks!!

Buy a decent puller so you'll have it. Before attempting removal loosen the nut on the drum and drive around a bit making several turns both ways and then it will loosen up then bring it home and pull the drum s

 

[58Belvedere]

Les Fairbank's Hub Puller

 

[58Belvedere]

More Information for DORMAN 19382

 

[58Belvedere]

Amazon.com

 

[Rusty Muffler]

More Information for DORMAN 19382 View attachment 667766View attachment 667765

Thx 58, they sent a box with that # on it and it had 3 pieces 2 of which were rubber and ONE straight generic looking spring. And according to my FSM there are TWO rubber cups for each side?

 

[58Belvedere]

Thx 58, they sent a box with that # on it and it had 3 pieces 2 of which were rubber and ONE straight generic looking spring. And according to my FSM there are TWO rubber cups for each side?

They should be a single piston Slave cylinder. https://www.partsgeek.com/dcktvfh-p...x4qucBuf-Zfh9QIoVwQy-b8iGKBrotkYaApaKEALw_wcB

 

[58Belvedere]

They should be a single piston Slave cylinder. https://www.partsgeek.com/dcktvfh-p...x4qucBuf-Zfh9QIoVwQy-b8iGKBrotkYaApaKEALw_wcB View attachment 667781

OOPS that a front. Here is a whole rear for visuals: More Information for ACDELCO 18E537

 

[58Belvedere]

OOPS that a front. Here is a whole rear for visuals: More Information for ACDELCO 18E537 View attachment 667783

Whole one, no kit at RA : More Information for DYNAMIC FRICTION 37539010 $14

 

[Rusty Muffler]

Whole one, no kit a RA : More Information for DYNAMIC FRICTION 37539010 $14

That looks more like it, but of course I haven't seen it because I can't get the blasted drum off! Today I took the brake hose off at the drivers rear wheel and might have found it as being the problem. That wheel when braking would only slowly release the brakes and would drag and get hot. I'm going to replace that and I also cleaned up the Y junction that feeds the other rear brake. After that if fixed I won't need to pull the drum for now.

 

[Dan Scully]

Can someone tell me which one will work for sure please? My car has 5 lugs. Just returned one to Amazon that was junk! I think it's called a tapered shaft drum puller?
Also I'd like a wheel cylinder rebuild kit for same wheel, Amazon send me one that looked wrong and with missing pieces. Thanks!!

I, am in So Cal 92308, I have the right one and if you have no other options bring it down and we can pop them off.

 

[Fireflite56]

I second the Fairbanks puller.

 

[Rusty Muffler]

Les Fairbank's Hub Puller View attachment 667760

I've emailed him but saw this comment from him in 2020:

	​
Les	Posted 2020-10-22 3:51 PM (#604786 - in reply to #594955) Subject: RE: Les Fairbanks and the Fairbanks Brake Drum Puller ​
New User Posts: 4	I just became aware of this discussion about my drum puller and although it was some time ago i wanted to weigh in. I am flattered with all of the comments about the puller and how well it works. Thanks to everyone for the kind words. A lot of the discussion was about Imperial's and does this puller work on them. This puller doesn't but I had been making them for Imperial and DeSoto and Chrysler station wagons that used the heavy duty Imperial rear end. As some have said the puller is not very versatile. It is designed for Chrysler products with the 5x 4.5" bolt pattern which is probably all of them except Imperial. I also made a couple with both bolt patterns for 5x5.5" Imperials and 5x4.5" everything else. Imperials used 9/16"-18 thread bolts and the left hand thread stock was hard to find. However, I have sold my tool & die shop and am retired now. I don't have any stock for the Imperial pullers and probably wont be making any more of them. I do have stock for eighteen of the 5x4.5" pullers and might not make any more of them when these are gone. Depends on how bored I get with retirement. I will gladly answer any questions about the puller and if you have been thinking about ordering one I cant guarantee there will be anymore when current stock is gone. Les

 

[Rusty Muffler]

I've emailed him but saw this comment from him in 2020:

​

	​
Les	Posted 2020-10-22 3:51 PM (#604786 - in reply to #594955) Subject: RE: Les Fairbanks and the Fairbanks Brake Drum Puller ​
New User Posts: 4	I just became aware of this discussion about my drum puller and although it was some time ago i wanted to weigh in. I am flattered with all of the comments about the puller and how well it works. Thanks to everyone for the kind words. A lot of the discussion was about Imperial's and does this puller work on them. This puller doesn't but I had been making them for Imperial and DeSoto and Chrysler station wagons that used the heavy duty Imperial rear end. As some have said the puller is not very versatile. It is designed for Chrysler products with the 5x 4.5" bolt pattern which is probably all of them except Imperial. I also made a couple with both bolt patterns for 5x5.5" Imperials and 5x4.5" everything else. Imperials used 9/16"-18 thread bolts and the left hand thread stock was hard to find. However, I have sold my tool & die shop and am retired now. I don't have any stock for the Imperial pullers and probably wont be making any more of them. I do have stock for eighteen of the 5x4.5" pullers and might not make any more of them when these are gone. Depends on how bored I get with retirement. I will gladly answer any questions about the puller and if you have been thinking about ordering one I cant guarantee there will be anymore when current stock is gone. Les

UPDATE: Just talked to him and he's still making them, hooray! $100. for the cheaper one+$10 to ship. Nice guy too, sounds real American.

 

[Just Carbs]

I purchased the three-finger economy model from Amazon plus three more fingers so as to have a five-finger puller.
It does fit the 64 tapered 8-3/4 rear quite fine with all five fingers. But, it don't just jump right on to the axle shaft either. PROPER installation is in order.
I snug it up to about fifty ft pounds and tap/hit the end of it with a 5-pound hand male hammer.
It works like new money.

There definitely is the opportunity to damage the end of the axle shaft if a person doesn't install the tool diligently. Leave the "ends" of the threads on the axle shaft captive by the big nut so they can't mushroom.

For those people thinking about abandoning the tapered shaft axles all together, you might think on that a while before you do that. The tapered shaft setup is a completely captive arrangement, The hub CAN NOT come off the axle when driving the car as long as that "big nut" and the "little bearing retainer plate nuts" stay on the car. The one-piece axle can and has been known to slid right on out of the axle housing tube while the car is being driven. Axle shaft, drum, wheel, tire...gone, the whole buffalo. Everything but the bearing retainer collar, bearing and retainer plate. Bouncing down the road end over end. With NO warning.
At least that's how it went for me. A very entertaining event.

 

[OKDart]

I haven’t tried this, but I’ve read you can loosen the nuts by one turn and drive the car in a figure 8 to pop the hubs loose. Worth a try.

 

[Rusty Muffler]

I purchased the three-finger economy model from Amazon plus three more fingers so as to have a five-finger puller.
It does fit the 64 tapered 8-3/4 rear quite fine with all five fingers. But, it don't just jump right on to the axle shaft either. PROPER installation is in order.
I snug it up to about fifty ft pounds and tap/hit the end of it with a 5-pound hand male hammer.
It works like new money.

There definitely is the opportunity to damage the end of the axle shaft if a person doesn't install the tool diligently. Leave the "ends" of the threads on the axle shaft captive by the big nut so they can't mushroom.

For those people thinking about abandoning the tapered shaft axles all together, you might think on that a while before you do that. The tapered shaft setup is a completely captive arrangement, The hub CAN NOT come off the axle when driving the car as long as that "big nut" and the "little bearing retainer plate nuts" stay on the car. The one-piece axle can and has been known to slid right on out of the axle housing tube while the car is being driven. Axle shaft, drum, wheel, tire...gone, the whole buffalo. Everything but the bearing retainer collar, bearing and retainer plate. Bouncing down the road end over end. With NO warning.
At least that's how it went for me. A very entertaining event.

My little brother has a late 60's Pontiac and while he was driving he looks over his shoulder to see his axle about 2' out tire, wheel and all!

 

[57fury440]

I've had Mopars for 60 years and have never had a problem with the newer axles. Get rid of the old style and you will not be sorry. The newer ones are so much easier to work on and the brakes are better too.