Questions for all wire wizards** 1966 Newport Town Sedan

[mbnewp]

Long story short, here I am with the blue, red, and a yellow wire to which I am unsure where they go.

Blue wire I was able to find the end for. It loops the left to right rear lights connected and got my rear and brake lights back going.

Since then my rear signals fail to signal and my dash and front indicators have followed in failing [all three were once working].

I suspect the red has to loop as well; the red wire was snipped up towards the front of the trunk where the wire goes under through the boot under the chassis. Where am I sending this? 16g red.

The yellow wire is 12g maybe 14g but I found that snipped snugged in its housing and sitting directly next to my gas tank coming down from the front of the car. I am not certain what that controls but my guess is the trunk light - which never worked. But I can’t then explain the harness coming up and behind the trunk lid above the wheel well…

I have looked up wiring diagrams and I am still unsure.
I have spent my weekend testing and trying.
Changing fuses and bulbs and I now come to you saviors for an assist.

Many thanks in advance.

 

[Big_John]

Download a FSM here for the factory wiring diagrams. MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals

Print out the page and go to work with some markers and that will help you get through it. Do one circuit at a time.

 

[Davea Lux]

The yellow wire probably should go to your license plate light given the location.

Dave

 

[mbnewp]

Download a FSM here for the factory wiring diagrams. MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals

thanks Big John. the linked helped quite a bit. looking forward to getting back out there.

 

[Gerald Morris]

After consulting the FSM, if you don't find an errant wire, CHECK THE FUSEBOX ITSELF! I drive a 66 Newport, and the fuseholders in that box have aged along with the rest of the circuit elements. I have a VERY SIMILAR problem to yours with the tail lights, front signal/fog lights and 12V instrument light feed all going dead WHEN ONE OF THE FUSEHOLDER CLIPS VIBRATES LOOSE JUST SO! It took me near 2 years to serendipitously find this, after screwing around with the bulkhead connector, replacing the headlight switch and much circuit chasing. That yellow wire is switched from the headlight switch, but the POWER to those lights is from a fuse about 2 or 3 fuses in from the edge of the fuseholder, which I think has 7 or 8 fuses total in it.

Check and see if any connections in that have loosened up over 53 years. If you don't find another cause to your circuit trouble, ping me and I can walk you right to the proper fuse.

FWIW I already bought a nice all brass fuseholder which will fit in the original box down under the driver's side. I plan to put the headlights on relays soon, qand already have an electric pusher fan on a relay, so I need to expand my overcurrent protection and add a couple fused curcuits. Its generally to your advantage to do this stuff.

 

[Ripinator]

thanks Big John. the linked helped quite a bit. looking forward to getting back out there.

Here is another source for color-coded wiring diagrams:

1966 Chrysler Color Wiring Diagram

 

[The Horvaths]

FWIW:
My buddy had a Dart that would randomly die. Then work fine. Then die.
We checked the fuses each time and they not only looked good, they tested good. I'm an electronic technician, not my first rodeo..
This was beginning to become a pain in his side. Then, one day, I got another call from him. It had died again. I drove to meet him, tools in hand (again!).
In desperation, I simply removed the IGN circuit fuse and replaced it with another. The car started right up. I took a long, hard look at the old fuse. Then, I gave the two metal caps a twist. Voila! One end cap separated from the glass and left the fuse element intact. It had, over the years, literally vibrated free of the connection to the cap. The result was an intermittent connection that was well-hidden inside the cap and magically worked - most of the time.

Moral of the story: Don't take anything for granted. Trust, but verify.

- dad

 

[BillGrissom]

You should always describe your car when asking such questions and also where you are working on these wires: rear-end, fusebox, ... If you don't have a multimeter, get one free at Harbor Freight w/ coupon. Many youtubes on how to diagnose electrical.

Ditto on the melted fuse that wasn't obvious. We suffered w/o AC for many years in FL because the blower stopped. My dad had inspected the fuse and looked good, so he figured "too expensive to fix". A co-worker finally suggested to install a resettable breaker in place of the fuse (used to be at auto parts to fit in a round fuse-holder). Blower then worked and he found the fuse had melted up against the cap where not visible. Of course he didn't own a meter (rare in 1970's) nor know how (no youtubes then), though somewhat technical (B.S. in Chemistry). That is a common failure. The fuse doesn't fail from too much current, rather corrosion causes heat at the clips which melts the wire. The bulkhead connectors are also a corrosion head-ache, especially the large ALT and BAT wires which are too much for old 56 terminal spade connectors (1965 cars are better).

 

[Gerald Morris]

FWIW:
My buddy had a Dart that would randomly die. Then work fine. Then die.
We checked the fuses each time and they not only looked good, they tested good. I'm an electronic technician, not my first rodeo..
This was beginning to become a pain in his side. Then, one day, I got another call from him. It had died again. I drove to meet him, tools in hand (again!).
In desperation, I simply removed the IGN circuit fuse and replaced it with another. The car started right up. I took a long, hard look at the old fuse. Then, I gave the two metal caps a twist. Voila! One end cap separated from the glass and left the fuse element intact. It had, over the years, literally vibrated free of the connection to the cap. The result was an intermittent connection that was well-hidden inside the cap and magically worked - most of the time.

Moral of the story: Don't take anything for granted. Trust, but verify.

- dad

Yep! Only by bumping the exposed fuseholder w my knee and seeing the lights come on did I find my bug. After that, it didn't take long to find the loose clip.

 

[mbnewp]

Hells yes.
Problem solved; to a point.
Turn indicators are still not working but I was able to track down the short to the dome light thanks to the diagrams provided above.
As long as my rear and brake lights are working, I am happy. I will solve the turn signals later. Read a few threads on here will have to return to them.

Thanks for all the input and suggestions.

 

[commando1]

I will solve the turn signals later.

Only someone in Montana can a guy say that. Lucky guy.