Rear Axle Bearing Noise

[TxDon]

I took my 66 wagon out for its weekly exercise a few days ago and part of the loop is on the tollway where I can run it up to 75-80. It's a quiet car except for some wind noise but this time I heard a new sound, a high-pitched whistling or moaning. I turned off the A/C, no change, put the car in neutral, no change. No vibration, pulling, dragging or other symptoms but the noise kept up until I exited and slowed down below 60-65. No noise or other issues driving home at slower speeds. When I got home I felt all four wheels for temperature and the right rear was noticeably warmer - not really hot but warmer. No burning smell or anything else noticeable. Since the car has 124,000 miles I am wondering if it may be a rear axle bearing starting to go. I'm planning to pull both wheels and drums to rotate the axles and see if there is any noise or roughness, also to check for seal leaks. Any suggestions for other troubleshooting checks?

 

[Davea Lux]

With a 124k in mileage, one or both of the rear bearings could be failing. But pull both axles and check the condition of the grease packed into the bearings, after this many years, the grease may have dried out to where it is no longer providing enough lubrication. You should repack the bearings in any case as long as they are not damaged. Also check the oil level in the differential housing to be sure it is full and not contaminated with water. Also check the u-joints for excessive play and spin the front wheels to be sure they are not the source of the noise. As noted replace the grease seals while you have it apart, mark the position of the adjusting pawl for the axle end play and put it back in the same position so you do not have to re-adjust the end play. If you need new rear bearings, follow the adjusting instructions in the FSM. Download for free at www.mymopar.com, it is the tools/reference section. Do not install Chinese bearings!

Dave

 

[polara71]

If you are going that route switch out the axle bearings and be done with it.
Just my thoughts

 

[Zymurgy]

I replaced both my rear bearing on my 66 300. It had about 70,000 my right side was bad, left ok but went ahead and replaced it. I shouldn't have to ever worry about it again.

I would replace them, kind of a big job it you haven't done it before, you need access to a heavy duty air cut tool and a big bench press. Definitely read up on it. At the time Rock Auto had the best price by far for Timken bearings.

 

[polara71]

I replaced both my rear bearing on my 66 300. It had about 70,000 my right side was bad, left ok but went ahead and replaced it. I shouldn't have to ever worry about it again.

I would replace them, kind of a big job it you haven't done it before, you need access to a heavy duty air cut tool and a big bench press. Definitely read up on it. At the time Rock Auto had the best price by far for Timken bearings.

Made in China Timkens or Made in the USA Timkens?

 

[413]

Just clean them out completely so they are shiny steel with no grease. If they roll smooth repack them. Use a needle on the grease gun. Fill EVERY gap on the lower side with grease. Put some grease on top of the rollers. Roll the bearing and push the race down while doing it. Wipe the excess down, put some on the seal and in the cavity on the housing.

The adjuster goes on the right side. Don’t switch sides.

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[Zymurgy]

Made in China Timkens or Made in the USA Timkens?

Made in USA a couple of years ago though.

 

[Big_John]

If you are going that route switch out the axle bearings and be done with it.
Just my thoughts

^This^

If they are noisy from lack of grease, chances are very good they are already screwed up.

But, you haven't really determined if it's the bearing(s) or not. Does it get noisier or quieter when turning? That's usually a good sign of bad bearings. Checked the u-joints? Rear brake hanging up?

 

[TxDon]

With a 124k in mileage, one or both of the rear bearings could be failing. But pull both axles and check the condition of the grease packed into the bearings, after this many years, the grease may have dried out to where it is no longer providing enough lubrication. You should repack the bearings in any case as long as they are not damaged. Also check the oil level in the differential housing to be sure it is full and not contaminated with water. Also check the u-joints for excessive play and spin the front wheels to be sure they are not the source of the noise. As noted replace the grease seals while you have it apart, mark the position of the adjusting pawl for the axle end play and put it back in the same position so you do not have to re-adjust the end play. If you need new rear bearings, follow the adjusting instructions in the FSM. Download for free at www.mymopar.com, it is the tools/reference section. Do not install Chinese bearings!

Dave

Thanks Dave. Is it possible to pull the axles without removing the brake assemblies like the FSM describes? Also, what is the best way to clean out the old bearings to check them?

 

[TxDon]

^This^

If they are noisy from lack of grease, chances are very good they are already screwed up.

But, you haven't really determined if it's the bearing(s) or not. Does it get noisier or quieter when turning? That's usually a good sign of bad bearings. Checked the u-joints? Rear brake hanging up?

Thanks John. Not sure about the turning, only had the noise at higher freeway speeds. I will need to check everything out as others have suggested, pulling the axles will be my last item.

 

[TxDon]

Just clean them out completely so they are shiny steel with no grease. If they roll smooth repack them. Use a needle on the grease gun. Fill EVERY gap on the lower side with grease. Put some grease on top of the rollers. Roll the bearing and push the race down while doing it. Wipe the excess down, put some on the seal and in the cavity on the housing.

The adjuster goes on the right side. Don’t switch sides

Thanks, great pictures. What is the correct type of grease to use on these bearings?

 

[Davea Lux]

Thanks Dave. Is it possible to pull the axles without removing the brake assemblies like the FSM describes? Also, what is the best way to clean out the old bearings to check them?

You can pull the brake springs so that you can spread the shoes enough to access the flange bolts, usually simpler to just pull the shoes. Bearings can be cleaned with Brakekleen.

Dave

 

[TxDon]

Reviving this old thread, realized I never finished it up and now that I'm doing my brake job there may be more to do. Way back in 2020 when I started this I did go back and check all the wheels. To answer John there was no change in the noise when turning. I jacked it up and spun all the wheels without hearing anything, the front wheels turned very freely. After that I never heard the noise again so I figured it was wind noise which I have a lot of on the drivers side.

So now I am doing my brake job and I see a pretty nasty seal leak on the right rear that has messed up the old brake shoes, probably part of why the brakes sucked. I will pull that axle check and repack the bearing and replace the inner seal. What is best way to R and R without special tools?

 

[Jon O.]

Put the seal in the coldest part of your freezer the night before and put them in as quick as you can after taking them out. Makes it much easier. I also had trouble with them not wanting to go in straight, but I didn't have proper tools at the time.
Mine were beyond repacking, but a grease needle all the way around is what i'd use.

 

[Toolmanmike]

There is a inner seal that keeps rear axle lube out of the bearings and a outer seal that keeps the bearing grease out of the brakes.

 

[USSMOPAR]

two thumbs up for 413's tech support
set the end play for 0.0050 inches.
use a NOS seal- far superior to aftermarket and there are plenty out there. Maybe one of the smarter people can provide the part number.
synthetic wheel bearing grease
synthetic lube

 

[TxDon]

I removed the rear brake parts and there was evidence of leaks on both sides so I pulled both axles today. I was ready to use the "reversed brake drum puller tool" but both sides just pulled out by hand. Lots of disgusting black grease everywhere except on the bearings but they both look fine and turn smooth. I find it interesting that this style bearing obviously needs regular service but there is no mention of this in the lubrication section of the FSM! Can anyone post a picture of the greasing needle small enough to fit and a tip where to get one?

 

[Davea Lux]

Plews part #05-025, available at most auto parts or on line. This unit has a standard grease fitting and uses a coupler to lock it on to a grease gun. Wheel bearing grease in cartridges is also available at most auto parts. The plews unit comes with a pretty small hole in the disbursing end, so you may need to take a small drill bit to enlarge the hole slightly.
Rear wheel bearings, when properly packed with quality wheel bearing grease, usually do not need frequent service. We used to repack them on cars with the heavy tow package and on police cruisers that had been involved on a high speed chase. Severe service conditions would dry out the grease from excessive heat. Also a good idea on today's surviving 50-60 year old cars as the grease will have degraded by now. Discard your rear brake shoes, they have been overheated and are oil soaked.

Dave

 

[TxDon]

Plews part #05-025, available at most auto parts or on line. This unit has a standard grease fitting and uses a coupler to lock it on to a grease gun. Wheel bearing grease in cartridges is also available at most auto parts. The plews unit comes with a pretty small hole in the disbursing end, so you may need to take a small drill bit to enlarge the hole slightly.
Rear wheel bearings, when properly packed with quality wheel bearing grease, usually do not need frequent service. We used to repack them on cars with the heavy tow package and on police cruisers that had been involved on a high speed chase. Severe service conditions would dry out the grease from excessive heat. Also a good idea on today's surviving 50-60 year old cars as the grease will have degraded by now. Discard your rear brake shoes, they have been overheated and are oil soaked.

Dave

Thanks Dave. Another site suggested I use Mopar Multi Mileage Lube, saying that was the original lube used at dealers. Is that correct and is it still available?

 

[Davea Lux]

Thanks Dave. Another site suggested I use Mopar Multi Mileage Lube, saying that was the original lube used at dealers. Is that correct and is it still available?

That product is no longer available as far as I know. A can or two will sometimes show up on E-Bay, but after 50 years I suspect the quality would be suspect. A modern equivalent is Stay Lube SL-3131 which seems to work well for drum brake applications. Lubricants have gotten better over the years and the older products were retired.

Dave