Rear axle bearing replacement.

polara71

polara71

Old Man with a Hat
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I need to do some rear axle bearing replacement. I have never done it but always hear how simple it is. Problem is I have never done it but I need to know how. I dont want to pay to have it done since I should know how to replace them. I dont want to read look in the FSM because according to that I need multiple "special " tools. I know this is a nuts and bolts job but still, I'm a bit apprehensive.
Does anyone have any pointers or tips?

My intentions are to order what I need from http://www.doctordiff.com/

Green bearings or Tapered Timkens?

I have watched a few videos on Youtube , there are only a few and I find it absolutely embarrassing that those hillbillies can do it and I never have..........As they say on the court, "Little Help".....



:shruggy:
 
I honestly do not know if there is a difference, but I replaced the right rear bearing assembly on my '65 about a year or so ago. Took the axle and new bearing to NAPA and they pressed it on. Sorry not more of a help.
 
The job of pulling axles, and getting bearings installed isn't to bad. The axle has a flange that retains it to the housing. There's 4 bolts I believe there's also a larger slot to use a socket in. There's inner seals, outer seals, and a foam gasket. After 69 they went to non adjustable green bearings. Be sure to get the better quality ones from doctor diff. Unless you have a press you'd need to take the axle to a shop. To pull the inner seal you can borrow a tool from autozone it takes the ether the 2 or 3 claw puller. The outer seal gets installed on the axle when the bearing is pressed on.
 
I would stay with the original design tapered roller bearings. The "green" bearings, like any ball bearing, are not designed for side loads. Great for drag racing, not so good for going around corners.

The originals last forever... I've never had to change a set and I've had about a jillion Mopars.

I'd take it to a shop that can press the new ones on and call it a day.
 
Tapered Timken all the way. Watch out that you don't nick the seals when you pull the axles out. The only thing that can be tough is pressing on the new bearings. The rest is shadetree easy.
 
Ive never had to replace a set either. Never had a jillion Mopars but probably 30. My "nicer" convertible needs them , I think from the car sitting in the same spot for a lot of years, dont know but the noise has gotten worse over the years.

Number two is making a loud metal on metal noise as it goes down the highway over 20, coming from the rear. If I just pull the tires and drums and roll the axle it throws a rubbing/humming sound at me.....my presumption is bearings
 
Mr C said:
Tapered Timken all the way. Watch out that you don't nick the seals when you pull the axles out. The only thing that can be tough is pressing on the new bearings. The rest is shadetree easy.
Click to expand...

This is the stuff I need to know.......
 
Hello Polara71 (Dave),
I just did mine a few months back, piece of cake. Remove the drums, 4 axle bolts and retainer pull out axle. Have machine shop press bearings off and on, you may want to replace seals and gaskets. Slip back in, may have to spin a bit and replace bolts and drums. No special tools needed, 9/16" socket.
Ruger
 
Easy and done in one day. Like the others.....have a shop remove and install bearings on the axles. I would replace the axle seals since you have it apart.
 
Years ago, I did the green bearings on my old Superbee, I was scared of the end play measuring crap back then. I just went the stock route on my Fury like everyone mentioned here because of the possible (but remote) side load problem. Really it's over rated. You can do it. Pull the axles out, drop them off at a Napa, and put them back in. The adjuster is on the passenger side. Put it back in the same place. You can easily measure the end play with a cheap dial indicator, or guess. I don't remember the amount of acceptable free play, but it's more than I thought. Mine was tight & no problem. Now putting on those Bilstein shocks was a real pain in the &*#. I had to pull both a arms. Ugh...
 
I have done enough to know if I can do it you can do it easily.
Everything is unbolt and pull apart.
Must use TAPERED. Green will destroy themselves if not used to go in a straight line only.
Line up a machine shop first and then do the job. Those bearings need a little oomph to press on.
 
I've replaced the bearings on both my 65 Coronet and on Jazebelle. Best to use the tapered bearings. You will need to find someone with a HD press to remove and install the bearings. You may want to replace the bearing retainers, (these are what gets pressed on and can become galled).
There is also a inner and outer seal involved, One of which goes on the axle before the bearing gets pressed, (important).
The foam gasket, (available from DMT), goes between the axle flange and backing plate
Last but not least. Be sure to pack the bearing with bearing grease. It is not lubed with the gear lube. I learned this the hard way a long time ago and had to replace the bearing within a year.

Be sure to use bearings "made in the USA".

Good luck.
 
I ordered two sets this morning and should have them by weeks end. I also pulled the axles tonight, the bearings had a lot of wiggle going on. Once the bearings arrive the axles will be shop bound.. Thank you all for the testosterone shot

timkin-kit.jpg
 
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