Rebuilt 727 Sources

73Coupe

73Coupe

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Well, the time is almost here to either rebuild my tranny or find a rebuilt unit. It just started giving me the telltale symptoms with a slight engine rev between 2nd and 3rd shifts. I wouldn't expect I've too long before I'm high and dry....and I drive 200 miles per week.

If I had it my way, I'd rebuild my own and put in a mild shift kit from Trans-Go. Unfortunately, though, I have no where I can do this nor the time. This is my daily driver so I need to do it on a weekend.

Having it rebuilt at the local trans shop will cost about $1500 and will take 3-4 days.

I was wondering if there are any reputable vendors out there you know of or had good luck with that will sell a nice rebuilt / upgraded & non-junk 727 + torque converter for a little less and I can install myself. I'm aware of B&M, TCI, etc, and those would be awesome, but would also be the same price, plus I'd still have to bench press the tranny myself.

Thanks, JT.
 
Tci is my go to for out of the box, and bolt on. I don't trust any shops... they'll do the bare minimum change out the clutches, seals, and ship it... Ether that or get a good core, and build it yourself.
 
I agree...the band adjust very rarely ever gets done.

I've had some nasty 727's over the years, some with fluid like chocolate milk in them, never really had an issue. My recent rebuild of the 727 in my wagon was not really required...figured this out "After" I rebuilt it though.

A core unit, and rebuilt in your spare time, then swap in...like the others suggest.
 
I had a flush done about a month ago, and the shop showed me the filter which had clutch material bits stuck to it.

The tranny has 92,000 miles on it, never been touched before. So it must be age or just some neglect over the years. The fluid was very low (like 2 quarts low) when I took possession of the car - and I think it had been driven with a low fluid level for quite a while.

I will look into finding a core somewhere, and rebuilding it, if I can find a GOOD core (let me know if you have one!). In the mean time, I will research on how to do band adjustments....thanks for the suggestions!

Is a new TC absolutely necessary? If I'm installing a new tranny, should I replace the TC?
 
I agree with the new TC. I got mine off Rockauto...direct/exact replacement, for a great price.

The OEM seals in these old TC tend to wear out, and can eventually fail....remember your looking at 40+ year old seals that have had how many thousands of heat cycles?

One of the rubber seals on the reverse accumulator/piston in my 727 had a chunk missing, and was cracked all the way through in one place.
 
thats what i'd do. 2 hrs to at the most to install. i wouldn't buy anaything tci. there warnnantys are a joke and there stuff is junk. i use to fix there combacks and i've personally seen there stuff up close
 
rumpfox said:
thats what i'd do. 2 hrs to at the most to install. i wouldn't buy anaything tci. there warnnantys are a joke and there stuff is junk. i use to fix there combacks and i've personally seen there stuff up close
Click to expand...
In your opinion is there any on the net that you would be confident in buying?
 
thrashingcows said:
I agree with the new TC. I got mine off Rockauto...direct/exact replacement, for a great price.

The OEM seals in these old TC tend to wear out, and can eventually fail....remember your looking at 40+ year old seals that have had how many thousands of heat cycles?

One of the rubber seals on the reverse accumulator/piston in my 727 had a chunk missing, and was cracked all the way through in one place.
Click to expand...

Seals. That's the key word. All O-rings and other rubber seals I've come across to date on this car have had the consistency of 2-week old dog sh*t.
 
rumpfox said:
thats what i'd do. 2 hrs to at the most to install. i wouldn't buy anaything tci. there warnnantys are a joke and there stuff is junk. i use to fix there combacks and i've personally seen there stuff up close
Click to expand...

Could you provide any specifics? What about B&M? products
 
The only place I'd trust would be John Cope - Cope Racing Transmissions. There may be others, but He's where I get some of my parts from, and has a lot of success stories. I would not use TCI for anything, not even the convertor. That being said - daily driver or not, if you're basically looking for a stock replacement with a shift kit - your local tranny shop should be able to turn on around in a day with some notice so they can get the parts in. It's not a difficult transmission to do and to get in or out.
 
Anybody ever heard of / dealt with this guy: http://www.727specialist.com/

Also, I was playing around with the kickdown linkage this weekend, and moved it back about 1/8" on the carb bracket.... and that seemed to alleviate the 2-3 engine rev! It's still shifting slower than I'd like, the 1-2 shift included, but the rev has subsided mostly.
 
73Coupe said:
Anybody ever heard of / dealt with this guy: http://www.727specialist.com/

Also, I was playing around with the kickdown linkage this weekend, and moved it back about 1/8" on the carb bracket.... and that seemed to alleviate the 2-3 engine rev! It's still shifting slower than I'd like, the 1-2 shift included, but the rev has subsided mostly.
Click to expand...

If you adjust it so that the kick down is as far as it will go when the throttle is WO it should be golden. If the throttle is WO and you can still push the kickdown back further, you need to lengthen it (screw it out) until it just touches the pin.

Kevin
 
Any opinions about "new" trannies, I looked at a TCI, B&M and Hughes trannies. Which one is the best? What about that 727 specialist mentioned above?
 
I rebuild my own Torqueflites so that I know they will be done right. But one option that would be reliable is a guy that restores all Torqueflites 1956 and up is Don Verity. He has been doing this for over 20 years and has done many of the Chrysler 300 Club member's transmissions. He has a very good reputation. He is in Rhode Island though, which means you would have to ship it to him for rebuild and then have it sent back. But you will know you got a good job done. You can contact him at 401 231-7816 or email d.verity@cox.net

Adjusting the kick-down, as indicated by Kevin (twostick) is the first step to take since having too low a line pressure will cause slippage. Since the 2 -3 shift is a clutch shift and the kickdown rod adjusts affects line pressure, getting the right adjustment will up the line pressure compared to where it is now for you, and probably will eliminate the 2-3 clutch slippage. Then you might not need a rebuild for some time yet. Torqueflites usually go well beyond 100K miles if maintained and adjusted properly (but you will very likely have to replace the selector shaft seal at least once in that interval, but that could be done with the trans still in the car and perhaps the front pump seal in that interval once, which would require removing the trans but not disassembling it). Improper kickdown rod adjustment will also cause early shifts, which are annoying too since they make the driving sluggish because the engine is always lugging in normal driving. But adjusting the kickdown band is always a good idea when servicing a Torqueflite too (oil/filter change). You can also adjust the line pressure if the pan is off, but you really shouldn't have to do that as the factory setting is pretty good. I would, however, rather adjust the line pressure up a little rather than mess with shift kits to get more firm shifts.
Steve
 
saforwardlook said:
I rebuild my own Torqueflites so that I know they will be done right. But one option that would be reliable is a guy that restores all Torqueflites 1956 and up is Don Verity. He has been doing this for over 20 years and has done many of the Chrysler 300 Club member's transmissions. He has a very good reputation. He is in Rhode Island though, which means you would have to ship it to him for rebuild and then have it sent back. But you will know you got a good job done. You can contact him at 401 231-7816 or email d.verity@cox.net

Adjusting the kick-down, as indicated by Kevin (twostick) is the first step to take since having too low a line pressure will cause slippage. Since the 2 -3 shift is a clutch shift and the kickdown rod adjusts affects line pressure, getting the right adjustment will up the line pressure compared to where it is now for you, and probably will eliminate the 2-3 clutch slippage. Then you might not need a rebuild for some time yet. Torqueflites usually go well beyond 100K miles if maintained and adjusted properly (but you will very likely have to replace the selector shaft seal at least once in that interval, but that could be done with the trans still in the car and perhaps the front pump seal in that interval once, which would require removing the trans but not disassembling it). Improper kickdown rod adjustment will also cause early shifts, which are annoying too since they make the driving sluggish because the engine is always lugging in normal driving. But adjusting the kickdown band is always a good idea when servicing a Torqueflite too (oil/filter change). You can also adjust the line pressure if the pan is off, but you really shouldn't have to do that as the factory setting is pretty good. I would, however, rather adjust the line pressure up a little rather than mess with shift kits to get more firm shifts.
Steve
Click to expand...
That's not an option for me, I don't have a 727 tranny yet, but I'm gonna need one with my 383 engine that is going into the car. Does that guy have transmissions for sale, or repairs only?

About that kickdown adjusting, what could be wrong with my 904, shifts up like it should, but won't shift down from 3rd until the speed is 10-15mph?
 
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