Go in to the store and either go to the Commercial Counter or ask to talk to the Commercial Pro...I'm sure they can help and have what you need on the spot.
removing drum brakes
- Thread starter newport64
- Start date
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Dumb and Dumber..........
well i got this
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-tube-flaring-kit-5969.html
and will check again tonight with another auto zone or o'reilly to get the fittings...
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-tube-flaring-kit-5969.html
and will check again tonight with another auto zone or o'reilly to get the fittings...
thrashingcows
Senior Member
Hope that kit work for you. I have never had luck with cheap flare tools. Ruined more then my fair share of lines because of them. I finally stepped up and bought a high quality unit a few years ago....The ease and quality of the flares is amazing compared with the cheap units I've used in the past.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
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well, i actually bought it at my local harbor freight...why the double flare? is the only difference the black adapter?
Double flare for strength. No other way to do brake lines. Period.
If doing the flare is the issue, replace the whole line with ready made (double flared with fittings) from a GOOD parts store.
If doing the flare is the issue, replace the whole line with ready made (double flared with fittings) from a GOOD parts store.
thrashingcows
Senior Member
I didn't even notice it wasn't a double falre set-up. Yes you need to double flare the ends. That was one of the things the cheap brake line flare tool always did as well...those little black secondary flare discs would snap off. Usually because the main tool would twist, and torque out of alignment once you start really cranking down on it.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Well I got some work done tonight. Time to order some parts! I am assuming I have manual brakes, as I don't have a booster. I am ordering brake hardware kits, new shoes, new brake self adjusters, new wheel cylinders and a new master cylinder. Anything I missed?
You can cut anywhere you want...
Just showing you the way I would do it.
I wouldn't want to shorten the brake line. You have to keep it loose to prevent stress cracking.
+
BULLCHIT! That is exactly where you buy them from. AutoZone, Advance, NAPA, Carquest...
You talked to an idiot.
i couldn't find the second nut you posted here. I hope what I did is ok.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Perfect!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :yaayy:
Yep, you want to make sure the double flares are done right. Good job!!!
bluefury361
Old Man with a Hat
got it, thanks guys. will.... post updates tonight hopefully.
Why do I have to post the updates.....? :edgy:
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commando1
Old Man with a Hat
cuz I'm busy tonight...
thrashingcows
Senior Member
Great thinking!! And your repair looks perfect...well done!
Don't forget the rubber brake lines...front and rear. Get good ones...Raybestos, or Dorman is what I usually run. I tried some super cheapy ones from an on-line seller...and I ended up with a check valve type situation on my back brakes. It would apply pressure, but wouldn't let the fluid flow back quickly.
will do. so, another important question. I believe my newport has a single piston master cylinder...so the big question is: is it common to rebuild it and work correctly or should I replace it altogether for a new one...
Also, as I was reading a couple of threads, what is the difference between the single and double piston master cylinder?
this is the one I would get: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=667818&cc=1327328
Also, as I was reading a couple of threads, what is the difference between the single and double piston master cylinder?
this is the one I would get: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=667818&cc=1327328
yes I have new hardware kits, wheel cylinders, new hoses, new shoes and a new master cylinder sitting in my shopping cart.
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