removing drum brakes

[thrashingcows]

The difference between the two styles of master cylinders is, the single piston, like what you have, powers both the front and rear brakes from a single reservoir. The dual piston has a dual reservoir, and the rear portion of the master cylinder powers the front brakes, and the front section powers the rear brakes.

the nice thing about the dual piston, or dual circuit system is that the front, or rear system can bleed down and not technically be functioning, and you will still have the other system, be it the front or rear, still working. All this in theory of course. With the single piston set-up is the master cylinder fails, then you have no brakes at all.

 

[thrashingcows]

Dual post....Doooh!

 

[commando1]

It would apply pressure, but wouldn't let the fluid flow back quickly.

They're collapsing. Need to dump them immediately.

 

[newport64]

The difference between the two styles of master cylinders is, the single piston, like what you have, powers both the front and rear brakes from a single reservoir. The dual piston has a dual reservoir, and the rear portion of the master cylinder powers the front brakes, and the front section powers the rear brakes.

the nice thing about the dual piston, or dual circuit system is that the front, or rear system can bleed down and not technically be functioning, and you will still have the other system, be it the front or rear, still working. All this in theory of course. With the single piston set-up is the master cylinder fails, then you have no brakes at all.

So what do I need to convert my newport to dual piston? Just a new master cylinder?

 

[commando1]

Guys: Will a '67 M/C bolt right up for him?

 

[thrashingcows]

Well going from a 64 single pot, to a 67...or later dual pot MC will probably not be a direct sway. I went looking for pics to see if I could see what the differences would be. It appears in the pics that it probably has the same 4 bolt mounting flange. But the push rod is obviously not included with a later style MC.

So I would wager a guess that you could mount the 67 MC up to the car, but would need to either modify, or buy a new adjustable push rod. Then you would still need to re-plumb the brake lines....front brake lines need to be T-'d and run to the rear port on the new MC, and the rear brake line would need to be plumbed to the front port.

 

[commando1]

I think he's up to the task, now.

 

[Zymurgy]

This is what I used on my '66 conversion, a new 5 port distribution block only $35, to the dual master, and then I fabricated an extra brake lines to go from the master to the new block. You will have an extra line but I discovered that my original master to block line didn't line up and I had to bend a new one of these too. For what you have done already this will be no big deal.

Here is the link. http://inlinetube.com/Prop Valves/BLK243.htm

It says for 65-66 does anyone know how this would work on his '64? I know I needed to change the angles on one of the lines going to the front left brake too, besides the 2 coming from the master. Does your '64 have a fender mounted distribution block?

 

[70bigblockdodge]

I don't know about m/c fitment issues but as long as you get a m/c with the same bore diameter for a drum drum system just separate lines front port to rear line rear port to front lines the junction block most 69 and earlier cars is only a switch to turn light on. Any proportion valves are usually under drivers floor on rail somewhere looks like a block line goes in top corner comes out bottom opposite if you are going to have to change the lines to rear you might want to put one in for future upgrades or to "dial" in proportion but not completely nessary if you don't have one on car now don't sweat it at this point. Like you said cruiser as long as it has safe brakes and no rear lock early issues your good.

 

[newport64]

What size is the rear axle nut? I need to buy a special socket for it.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

1 1/4 I believe

 

[newport64]

Thanks , currently fighting the rear drums and so far they are winning. :comp26:

 

[bluefury361]

Thanks , currently fighting the rear drums and so far they are winning. :comp26:

You need one of two things to remove them.... One.. The correct hub puller, or two.. cutting torches. Even with the hub puller you may need heat.

I'm telling ya..... Do yourself a big favor and swap out the entire axle for a 65 or later unit.....

 

[newport64]

:yaayy:

Got one off!

took a pic of the back of the right rear drum, they have a hard line directly going into the drum, so no rear rubber hose.

also took some pics of the MC and the lines from the MC down.

The big line on the right is the line coming from the MC, the one that looks a a spring goes to the rear and the 2 one the bottom are the front brake lines. For the conversion to dual piston MC can I replace this tblock with this http://inlinetube.com/Prop Valves/BLK243.htm and run a new line to the secondary inlet which will then separate the front from the rear?

 

[commando1]

:yaayy:

Gotta love that feeling. For me especially if it's 5:00

 

[66SportFury]

Got one off!

took a pic of the back of the right rear drum, they have a hard line directly going into the drum, so no rear rubber hose.

That's correct. The rubber hose for the rear brakes should be in the middle of the rear axle and going to a block. Be a good time to replace the rubber hose back there.

 

[bluefury361]

If your going to stick with the tapered axles ........ put some chauk on the taper before sliding the drum back on. It will come off much easier next time if need be.

 

[newport64]

If your going to stick with the tapered axles ........ put some chauk on the taper before sliding the drum back on. It will come off much easier next time if need be.

I think for now yes, I will keep the axles. The car needs much more work to get it road ready and upgrading the axle is not a priority right now. brakes are!

 

[bluefury361]

I think for now yes, I will keep the axles. The car needs much more work to get it road ready and upgrading the axle is not a priority right now. brakes are!

I can relate....... Once you get the brakes done you shouldn't have to mess with pulling the drums again for awile anyways.