Thanks for the clarification Scott - being nearby us helps! Was there anything about the repro cables they made for you that you wished could have been better? Any hints about the cost of their reproduction cables for your car at least? Thanks.
Reproduction C Body Battery Cables?
- Thread starter saforwardlook
- Start date
Thanks for the clarification Scott - being nearby us helps! Was there anything about the repro cables they made for you that you wished could have been better? Any hints about the cost of their reproduction cables for your car at least? Thanks.
rexus31
Senior Member
In all honesty Steve, it was a one-off, back door deal between my guy and I and I do not remember how much I paid. What car are you needing a cable for?
I have a few 71 Chrysler 300s and a 71 Dodge Monaco I need them for going-forward restorations. I thought it would be best to get the ball rolling before I actually need them, as I am contemplating what I still will need and don't see sources for. I can call them and see what they might be able to do for me and get some idea of prices from them directly. Thanks for the source and information Scott!
rexus31
Senior Member
You’re welcome, Steve! Do you have an original to go from?
Yes, there is a very original and correct set on one of my other 71 300s that I could supply for reproduction.
DeMopuar
Member
Hi Steve, I stopped into M & H personally a couple of years ago. I wish I could remember the name of the guy that helped me - but all I can say is the people in that office are not many - just ask for help from the guy who knows the most about Chryslers. What I wanted was the positive cable for a 1973 Imperial coupe. I brought what was left of this positive cable off the car and it was an amazing thing - my cable still had the original part number tag wrapped on it and M & H was able to look up if they had the proper positive cable blank to make this cable. They did - but they said it would take about 6 to 8 weeks to manufacture - which was fine with me - I was just happy that it could be made up. I did not get the fusible link portion as the one on the car was fine so I just put it back together - but I'm sure if you asked them they should be able to help. If you have an original with the actual part number that would be most helpful to them in order to know what you need. When I received the cable it fit like a glove - there were no issues at all. The only issue was the cost - it was super expensive I thought - but I didn't know where else I could get something like this. I believe it was in the $150 range for one cable - but again, when I received it I couldn't be happier with the result and the fit and finish. I know it's a lot of money, but it looks original and it functions perfectly.
rexus31
Senior Member
For a custom, one off part, I'd say you got off cheap.
Yeah, no kidding! Look at these "mass produced" cables.....
1966-74 A B E-Body Positive Battery Cable 1966 1967 Chrysler B Body Big Block Models
1966-74 A B E-Body Hemi Positive Battery Cable
QQE
Member
I will get a pic of the 65, 67-68 and 69-71 cables when I get a chance. All cables are made in house and are not imported. Thanks, Dave
Thanks for your reply Dave. Just so I am clear, I see in the listing of battery cables available from your company above that you do have some C body cables for those vehicles earlier than 1969 but nothing showing for 1971 except for E bodies - that list above might be out of date now, so I just wanted to know if you actually make (or will soon make) battery cables for the 69 - 73 C bodies now? If you do, that will end my searching to have them made up by someone else. I would rather support QQE which makes a wider array of parts for our vehicles than any other company out there now. You deserve the business in my view and I believe we should all do our best to support companies such as yours to be sure you make the profits you need to continue in this valuable endeavor.
I feel the same way about ABC Moparts who supplies a lot of quality trim parts for our cars too, also requiring a lot of investment $$ to make their efforts happen.
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polara71
Old Man with a Hat
IF these have the fusible link and are 100% correct , I'm in for 2, possibly three.
rapidtrans
Senior Member
Me too!
QQE
Member
I will check my listing tomorrow and let you know
To build on Dave's input, if the cables are as he described - original in every respect, I am in for 5 of them.
Also, for my 1971 Chrysler 300s, the wiring number on the harness is 3513621 found on a paper tag wrapped around them since Scott (rexus31) above mentioned for the ones he had made for him by M&H as a specialty job - having the actual harness number from the harness in his case facilitated his supplier in making them as original from available diagrams for his 1965 Chrysler 300. If you actually need an original, correct harness, I have one from one of my low mileage cars that you can use to make the reproductions that should work on most other 1971 C bodies and probably other fuselage years as well. I would think there would be a good number of orders from this group if done as indicated.
Thank you!
QQE
Member
I was swamped with orders today will post pictures tomorrow
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
73Coupe
Senior Member
To add to the list, I bought a negative battery cable from Evans wiring. It was spot on, but spendy (I think $85). He doesn't stock exact repops for a lot of C-bodies, but if you give him dimensions and sizes of connectors, he can hook you up. He also offers terminals a la carte. I got a positive terminal from him a few years ago just because my cables were good from that point back. The terminals look correct from the top but have screws on the bottom to secure the wires. I was able to remove the wire from th old terminal and preserve the solder in the wires. Still, not my preferred type of connection but so far it's held trouble-free, and packed with grease to prevent corrosion. I'm not sure I can solder the connection without ruining the lead terminal...
I'm pretty good at "slobbering" (as my father used to call it when he built satellites for the Navy), but I doubt I'd try that. The melting point of pure lead is 621F, and low temp tin/lead solder is in the 300-400 range depending on the tin/lead ratios, so it is possible. But we don't know if the terminal is actually pure lead for that 621 number, or if it has some tin in it, making it more "melty" and soft. And such a big mass of lead would probably require a propane torch vs. a puny soldering iron. Risky for sure, unless you had a spare terminal to experiment with....which isn't a bad idea.
If the terminal is NOT lead, but some sort of pot metal or whatever, that's another story. I'd slobber it.
QQE
Member
QQE
Member
This is the 69-70 c body cable
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