S(t)ubframe Question?

[greasemonkeyman]

Does anyone have any pictures of what the subframe mounts look like.Also what is actually holding the subframe to the body(I already have all front sheetmetal removed).It looks like just two bolts below the firewall/cowl area and one about a foot further back.Is this correct?Can the entire subframe be rolled forward with the engine/trans still mounted to the subframe(being supported in the rear by a transmission trolly jack) or must the engine/transmission be removed first? I'm planning on removing the brake lines,e-brake cable,Steering shaft,exhaust pipes(duals),speedo cable.I planned on supporting the transmission with a trolly jack,removing the subframe-to-body mounting bolts,raising the body about a foot,and hopefully just roll the front subframe forward.Has anyone done it this way and is it possible?

 

[Catfish]

Yes, I have done it many times.

 

[Catfish]

I have spent the last fifteen minutes looking for photos that I thought I had. Can't find 'em. I just use an impact and spin the bolts out. I have never messed up doing it, but if it makes you feel better to run them out by hand feel free. I usually just support the car on stands then support the back of the sub with a jack. Rather than jacking the body up after pulling the bolts, I just let the back of the sub down a tad and roll it out.

 

[greasemonkeyman]

So,aside from removing the driveshaft,speedo cable and 3 subframe bolts per side,are there any hidden parts underneath that need to be removed(trans tunnel area or possibly trans mount) or will that come out completely with the subframe removal?

 

[Catfish]

The trans mount will stay with the sub. Just watch wires, linkages and brake lines. Why are you pulling the sub?

 

[greasemonkeyman]

I'm planning on rebuilding the subframe,either a clean-up and repaint,or maybe get it sandblasted and powdercoated.I plan on updating it with new bushings,steering box,etc,and maybe do that A-518 swap while it's all apart.Also doing a disc brake swap too while it's all apart.

 

[Catfish]

Nice! I had mine blasted and painted and when I get it back I have to do a rebuild and disc swap as well. Hopefully you go first! LOL

 

[greasemonkeyman]

I'd like to go all Urethane bushings,reinforcement plated lower control arm plate,firmfeel tubular upper control arm and power steering box,and 13" ECI front disc brakes(the only thing about the ECI brakes is that I may modify the caliper bracket and use Wilwood four piston calipers for better stopping),plus the afore-mentioned A-518 Overdrive transmission swap.I just hate taking something apart twice if I don't have to!

 

[MrMoparCHP]

There are 10 bolts holding it on
This is the only picture I have showing them (as they have recently been cut off)

Here it is removed, the parking brake cable will get you as will the fuel line and maybe the exhaust.

Alan

 

[greasemonkeyman]

Hey Alan,where are the ten bolts? It's been a while since I crawled under the car or had it on a lift.All I see is two bolts on each side below the firewall and one on each side about a foot further back close to where the front seat mounts.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

Hey Alan,where are the ten bolts? It's been a while since I crawled under the car or had it on a lift.All I see is two bolts on each side below the firewall and one on each side about a foot further back close to where the front seat mounts.

One each side vertically accessed through the plug in the floor.

This picture probably shows it better. The threaded inserts are seen about 9" inboard of the holes at each end.
So the forward 4 bolts, the rear 2 on top, the 2 at the ends (with nuts) and the lasts 2 by the exhaust cutouts.

Alan

 

[commando1]

I love pictures of the guts of cars.

 

[greasemonkeyman]

Well,just about ready to remove my subframe and have one quick question: I have everything disconnected and just cracked loose all the 10(5 per side)subframe bolts to make sure they weren't gonna be a pain in the a@#.(Thanks for the help in locating all of them Alan).Do I have to relieve the tension on the torsion bars before I remove the subframe(still complete with engine and rolling suspension)or can I just lower the rear portion of the subframe onto a dolly and roll it forward out from under the car?
So far this is what had to be removed/disconnected to get to this point.......1) I removed the front end sheetmetal(gonna get painted eventually)....2)disconnected fuel line....3)disconnected wiring harness from cowl panel forward...4) Disconnected E-Brake cable at T-fitting in rear and fed it forward....5)Disconnected lines from master Cylinder and from proportioning valve to rear brakes....6)Disconnected Throttle cable at engine...7) Disconnected Air Conditioning Hoses from engine....8) Disconnected Heater hoses at firewall...9)Disconnected Steering Column from steering box....10) Disconnected shift linkage at steering column....11) Disconnected Speedometer Cable Next Step will be to raise the car and support the body on some cushioned jackstands,then unbolt the subframe(5 bolts per side) and lower the rear of the frame onto a heavy duty dolly and roll the whole assembly forward(Engine/Trans still attached to complete rolling subframe.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

The torsion bars do not need to be unloaded as bothe ends are attached to the stub frame.

I jacked the car up with the frame attached and slid the dolly under, I then lowered the full car back down with the full load now on the dolly (rear wheel on the floor). I then removed all the bolts and jacked the body up (a floor jack on the side works fine). Once clear roll the frame out and lower the body to the jack stands.

Alan