Could have surface voltage and a dead cell. I would still take it in and have them load test it. Then you know for sure the battery source is good.
Starting Woes
- Thread starter LocuMob
- Start date
Clover
Well-Known Member
Forgive me, I was in manual mode. Since your car is an automatic, put the ground wire on the terminal that the smaller brown plug-on wire goes to.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
Got it.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
I understand that, but I use my batteries between multiple vehicles, they don't sit for long periods of time. As for date codes, the only known one's for me at this time are the purchase date. I can look on the case(s) and see what I find.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
The new battery has a date code of A7, April 2017? The older battery has a date code of F5, February 2015? The newer battery sat longer before being out into service, what difference that makes, idk.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
Cranked normally at the key with the jumper wire. Disconnected and back to sounding like crap.
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
So you put ground to the terminal on the relay that the neutral switch connects to?
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
If you added a ground and it works, the neutral switch is bad or not getting a good ground from the trans case. Not really recommended and use with extreme caution, but you could put a ground on the terminal at the relay bypassing the neutral switch, it will start, but it will start in gear. Use with extreme CAUTION!!!!!
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
Like an old 1960 Chevy with a standard transmission, been there. Definitely not the preferred route.
Clover
Well-Known Member
Logic. It’s what’s for dinner.
MarPar
Meat Man with a Hat
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
Stupidty update:
Problem found.
Wires were good shortly before, I had moved them away from the header and they must have fell back against it. New cables routed completely out of heats way, new starter also, cranks at key now. Always something simple.
Problem found.
Wires were good shortly before, I had moved them away from the header and they must have fell back against it. New cables routed completely out of heats way, new starter also, cranks at key now. Always something simple.
MarPar
Meat Man with a Hat
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Had a bad day this spring when the crappy little ignition key wire to the starter relay had frayed at the connector to just one or 2 strands. It would start on a jump juicing the voltage up enough to make the relay close. I went through removing the starter, getting another relay, all sorts of futile **** before bumping the already weakened 53 yr old connection and breaking the last strand. THEN the problem became evident. At least I got all my $$ back from VatoZone for both new starter, then new relay. The old stuff works FINE...WITH A NEW 1/4 INCH FEMALE SPADE CONNECTOR crimped and heat shrunk on good to the starter relay. Simple ****, once you find it!
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