Stuck at the marina tonight, truck wont start

[MoPar Maniac]

Uh....then you would have more than 8 injectors.
Easiest way is to drop in a 92 up engine with all its wiring and ECU.
To convert your engine would require the intake, injectors, fuel pump, computer and wiring. Less work to replace the entire lump. And you could change the tranny and get OD.

 

[MoPar Maniac]

You would need a Magnum intake. And they have different Intake bolt angles.
Easiest way is to replace engine, computer and wiring. Change the tranny and get OD.

Disconnect the wire to the dizzy. On the main harness cinjector-not the one from the dizzy-there are 3 female pins. #1 is the one aligned with the tab. Put a jumper between 2 and 3. Turn key to ON. Take the coil wire from the dizzy cap and place the end about 1/2 inch from a good ground. Now make and break the jumper wire a few times. If no spark there is an open in the circuit between 2 and 3 or the coil is bad.
If there is spark measure voltage from connector #1 to ground.
Voltage should be within 1v of battery voltage. If in spec replace dizzy pic up. If not there is an open in the circuit of pin #1.

 

[MoPar Maniac]

Check coil.
Primary resistance 1.34-1.56 ohms.
Secondary-check coil brand.
Prestolite-9.4k-11.7 kΩ.
Essex-9k-12kΩ.
Diamond-15 k-19kΩ.

 

[MoPar Maniac]

And grease on electrical connectors can insulate them. Clean all grease then reinstall.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

ASD: 30 is battery power. 87 is main output. 85 is switch input, battery power when ignition on or start. 86 is switch ground. I agree that SBEC (ECM) is not grounding 86. No voltage at ignition coil + at start up

If 85 has power with key on, then ground 86 (manually) relay should close. I would use a heavy guage wire with a male blade connector on each end, and put it in 30 to 87, if you put a zip tie around wire or make a large loop so you can yank it out fast if need be.
Did you say fuses were good?
If your going to get rid of dist hall sensor I think you will have to ditch the throttle body also.
My guess would be you will find a bad ground somewhere. The 300m I had was wrecked, engine and trans replacements 2 each and went through a partial flood (below dash). Every electrical problem it ever had was ground related.

 

[rags]

I agree that SBEC (ECM) is not grounding 86. No voltage at ignition coil + at start up. No 87A.

the asd and fuel pump relay should cycle on for a second then off when the key is cycled on to prime the fuel system. signal from the distributor keeps them on in crank and run. if they're not hitting at all it's usually bad news for the brain. personally, i wouldn't give ten cents for reman anything. same with echlin. better off with used.

 

[pomonamissel]

where's cbodybob when you need him .

 

[1970FuryConv]

@MoPar Maniac. thanks for the suggestions on Magnum Install. Wouldn't I have to buy a 1992 or 1993 and export all the dash and wiring as well as what you mentioned?
Coil: primary and secondary are within specs you gave, MSD coil 40000 miles
Grease: I've never heard of grease having a negative effect. I've used it for years to prevent corrosion and ease install. Of course, Accel ships electrical grease with spark plug wires.

@rags I have had to return 2 Echlin sensors. Echlin used to be a good brand. I installed Cardone new distributor (China). Bad pickup out of the box. Aftermarket quality is terrible. Thank you, China.

THE FIX
*pulled Cardone distributor. Tested sensor signal with feeler gauge. 6.45V V draw with or without feeler. Internal short. Without pickup connected, sensor voltage from computer is 5V, factory spec.
*Installed Mileage Plus Echlin MP827SB hall effect pickup in original distributor. Installed original Distributor.
*Took distributor connector and wiring from 92 van. Crimped to wires out of computer and bypassed wiring harness at firewall. Connect at distributor. 1990 W150 started for first time in 2 weeks.

Feeler gauge, remove and replace, signal voltage at grey wire should alt between 0 & 5 V if connected to car's wiring harness

Yes I used the one on the left. No side play in shaft. Cleaned it up best I could. Cardone pickup & New Echlin pickup also shorted in Cardone unit on right.

Oddly enough, the mounting fittings on Mileage Plus hit the shutters. Had to use the fittings from the shorted Echlin to mount Mileage Plus. Advance is also near by, but they have BWD, speaking of Chinese junk.

Zip tie wiring arrangement to see if it worked

It started. Since 7/28/20 I am on my 4th hall effect pickup, the 1st Echlin lasted a month, the 2nd Cardone and 3rd Echlin were bad out of the box. By comparison the hall effect pickup I had before 7/28 lasted from 2010 to 2020.
Next I have to return Echlin idle speed control motor. Will not adjust per factory specs, does not extend for fast idle after shut down, must start with foot on gas pedal. Date of purchase: 9/5/20

 

[MoPar Maniac]

Don't know if you would need the dash but pretty much all the engine harness. But if you do that you may as well get a 93 up 360.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Don't know if you would need the dash but pretty much all the engine harness. But if you do that you may as well get a 93 up 360.

I just did the 440 engine in my 1970 Fury convertible. Funds are low for a number of reasons. I'm going to have to make TBI/hall effect work or disconnect everything and go to carb/conventional electronic ignition. If you're ever near Richmond, look me up. Would love to talk the ins and outs of Magnum conversion. Part of problem is 27 year old wiring harnesses and where to get a new harness when the only trucks for my body style that had Magnum were 92 5.2 and 93 5.2 & 5.9. Total redesign in 1994. If I buy a 92 or 93 Ram for conversion, I get wiring with resistance, and stiff or brittle insulation.
My 1990

1994