The sub frame project has begun..

I may end up there just yet this year..

I do live in the Niagara area so if you are in the neighbourhood, you are welcome to stop by.
 
I had a minor set back tonight.. My original Torsion bars are nowtoo short!!

The Stub Frame i got form Murray Park was from 66 Newport.. the torsion bars need to be 47" instead of the stock 44"

I am waiting to hear back from him to see if he can do something for me about this. I was told it was a bolt in replacement..
 
Murray got back to me and we are doing a straight out swap for my old torsion bars which I find out are Plymouth Fury bars.. 574 & 575 olive green in colour..

So another Great Canadian discovery we concluded tonight.

I should have the bars in about a week..
 
Murray got back to me and we are doing a straight out swap for my old torsion bars which I find out are Plymouth Fury bars.. 574 & 575 olive green in colour..

So another Great Canadian discovery we concluded tonight.

I should have the bars in about a week..


Ummm...... The wheelbase of a '66 Newport is 124". The wheelbase of your Polara is 121". Of course the subframe that Murray sent you is going to need 3" longer torsion bars! Your Polara is going to have a 3" longer wheelbase!

You need a subframe from a 1966 Dodge or a 1966 Plymouth, NOT a 1966 Chrysler !!!!!!!
 
Interesting comment but the connector where it holds the rear of the torsion bar is 3 inches further back so the wheel base should remain the same..

I sure as hell hope!!!!

Check the photos here to see what i mean.

Replacement Stub on top

Old Stub on the bottom..


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Mock up your fenders to see if they'll fit...could be trouble.
 
Interesting comment but the connector where it holds the rear of the torsion bar is 3 inches further back so the wheel base should remain the same..

I sure as hell hope!!!!

Check the photos here to see what i mean.

Replacement Stub on top

Old Stub on the bottom..

Anybody got a parts book to check numbers?
 
Mock up your fenders to see if they'll fit...could be trouble.

No troubles found my online friend!
I mocked the inners' up straight away and they fit like a glove.


The major difference is that my Cdn Polara used a Fury stub frame right from the get go according to Murray's conversation.
Apparently the exported product was free game to do whatever Mopar felt like.

Remember, my Polara has the Fury dash as well..

I now have a proper Polara Stub frame under my car..


My thoughts are that Mopar liked to get rid of their cast offs' for the export cars.
According to my chat with Murray, they did this quite frequently to far away exports like Australian exports.

It's not like they could drive them back for warranty replacement
:D

I just have to wait for the torsion bars to arrive now.

While inconvenient, I have lots to do still...
 
The major difference is that my Cdn Polara used a Fury stub frame right from the get go according to Murray's conversation.
Apparently the exported product was free game to do whatever Mopar felt like.

Remember, my Polara has the Fury dash as well..

I now have a proper Polara Stub frame under my car..


My thoughts are that Mopar liked to get rid of their cast offs' for the export cars.

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I'm still not having a warm and fuzzy feeling over all of this......
 
I'll update as time goes on.

I know local owner of a 65 Polara "CDN" version & again that did this exact same swap out so he could run a 383 setup.

He is a Mopar man through n' through and when I called him last night as well before hearing back from Murray Park he confirmed that I would have to change as well to the longer 47" the torsion bars

I'll keep evryone posted as well.
 
I'll update as time goes on.

I know local owner of a 65 Polara "CDN" version & again that did this exact same swap out so he could run a 383 setup.

He is a Mopar man through n' through and when I called him last night as well before hearing back from Murray Park he confirmed that I would have to change as well to the longer 47" the torsion bars

I'll keep evryone posted as well.

If I could spare the time right now, I'd be pouring over the parts books and the features books to see if there's any mention of this. If anybody has a Hollander's Interchange from this time period, that will be quite informative as well.
 
Here is what i snipped from the 1966 Passenger car parts catalog for torsion bar specs and the Stub frames

D- Dodge
C - Chrysler
P - Plymouth
Y - Imperial

1966 Torsion bar specs.jpg


Stub Frame part numbers.jpg
 
Here is what i snipped from the 1966 Passenger car parts catalog for torsion bar specs and the Stub frames

D- Dodge
C - Chrysler
P - Plymouth
Y - Imperial

Good research!

So the subframe you're getting from Murray is 2576953 which will replace your 2576949?

Interesting how many applications there are for those 574/575 bars you're getting. I'm guessing they're larger diameter than your 44" bars. This will give you a slightly firmer ride in the front, but more importantly, you're going to have less understeer. If you are inclined to invest in a set of good KYB shocks, you're REALLY going to like how your car drives once you've got it back together.
 
Good research!

So the subframe you're getting from Murray is 2576953 which will replace your 2576949?

Interesting how many applications there are for those 574/575 bars you're getting. I'm guessing they're larger diameter than your 44" bars. This will give you a slightly firmer ride in the front, but more importantly, you're going to have less understeer. If you are inclined to invest in a set of good KYB shocks, you're REALLY going to like how your car drives once you've got it back together.

This pretty much what Terry the local Mopar Guy told me as well!

although I bought the Sachs brand of front shocks..
 
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Quick update!

Front suspension is together and tight! :)

Installed new wheel cylinders/flex hoses and working on the brakes this afternoon.:)

Should have new wheel bearings/seals as well complete by end of the day :)

Noticed my P/S pump is leaking though... poop....:(
 
Quick update!

Front suspension is together and tight! :)

Installed new wheel cylinders/flex hoses and working on the brakes this afternoon.:)

Should have new wheel bearings/seals as well complete by end of the day :)

Noticed my P/S pump is leaking though... poop....:(

Getting lined up with first rate power steering is a whole 'nother conversation.

I haven't paid enough attention. Do you convert the front brakes to disc?
 

Noticed my P/S pump is leaking though... poop....:(
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Seems like anytime one thing gets finished something else pops up
 
Hi Kevin, No I stayed with the drum setup since the cost of the upgrade would be a bit too much for me this time around... :black_eye:

I got a real deal on the brake parts for the car though.

Rock Auto came through with great pricing on the Spring and auto adjuster kits.

Auto Zone came through huge on the following got the online 25% off plus free shipping.
- Drums front & back,
- Wheel cylinders
- Flex hoses (Didn't include the copper washers though..)

Bosch - my employer still makes brake shoes for this car! Can you believe it??
 
I got done what i set out to do today! :)

Front Brakes are completed less Bleeding the system.

4 Simple Easy steps!

1) Front Baking plate with Wheel Cylinder!
2) Brake Shoes & hardware installed!
3) Painted new drums and adjusted brakes!
4) Put wheel on just for the heck of it! :D


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