Tips for a young guy? What’s next?

[O_Knut]

So, after the transmission job had a moth fly out of my wallet, I’m hoping you guys can help me with some quality advice.
Here’s where I am with my car:
Needs new radiator

Needs new carb or carb rebuild

New muffler/ maybe exhaust

Rides like a truck (though handles amazingly just not comfy on bumps at all) (also body bushing shot I can feel the body and the subframe move seperately)

Body work… save that for last

Any advice for doing these things affordably or easily besides junkyarding parts is appreciated. I’m 20 now and though I did work for a time at a mechanics shop, I know fuel injection and sensors far more than I know carbuerators and chokes.
I guess any advice or tips you can give a young guy is appreciated. It may help me decide what else to fix. Carb getting done first then radiator

 

[MoPar~Man]

Is that a small block? 2 or 4 bbl?

 

[O_Knut]

Is that a small block? 2 or 4 bbl?

360 small block with the stock Holley 2210 2 bbl im fairly certain

 

[saforwardlook]

I have posted a number of comments about the Holley 2210 - here they are...........................:

Search results for query: Holley 2210

 

[halifaxhops]

Buy a set of SAE tools. Decent ones at HF actually for what you will need.

 

[The_Eagles’_Nest]

Recore the radiator - Glen Ray Radiators. Rebuild the carb - All American Carburetors

 

[Big_John]

Needs new radiator

I'm a big proponent of recoring the radiator rather than replacing, but sometimes that is price prohibitive. I can give you the name of the shop I use that's just north of Syracuse, NY if you want. They seem to be much more reasonable in price. Probably a 3 1/2 to 4 hour drive for you, but you could UPS it too. Look around in your area first. There are cheaper aluminum radiators around too. Just keep the old stock one.

Needs new carb or carb rebuild

I think @saforwardlook covered this. I will suggest Woodruff Carbs if you want to have it rebuilt, although they aren't that hard to rebuild yourself.

New muffler/ maybe exhaust

Depends on what you want. I did a TTI dual system on my '70 300 with Cadillac mufflers. Not the cheapest, but IMHO, the best. If you have to replace your entire exhaust, this may be comparable in price to having a shop do just a stock type replacement.

Rides like a truck (though handles amazingly just not comfy on bumps at all) (also body bushing shot I can feel the body and the subframe move seperately)

The lower control arm bushings are usually shot in most of these cars. Be careful buying NOS because rubber doesn't age well.

Body work… save that for last

Dig even deeper into your wallet. Shops are notoriously slow doing old cars as they get shoved off in a corner to do during "slow times". These slow times never seem to come and the cars sit in shops for years.

Any advice for doing these things affordably or easily besides junkyarding parts is appreciated. I’m 20 now and though I did work for a time at a mechanics shop, I know fuel injection and sensors far more than I know carbuerators and chokes.
I guess any advice or tips you can give a young guy is appreciated. It may help me decide what else to fix. Carb getting done first then radiator

Yep, no old car junkyards in the northeast.

Geez... 20 years old. That's a great age to be. Enjoy it.

Carburetors aren't that hard, especially that 2bbl. Good place to learn and the FSM is your friend. Chip away at it. Suspension first to make the car safe to drive. If it's overheating, do the radiator next.

 

[Isaiah Estrada]

Don't be like me and try and fix too much at a time, now I'm stuck with mine in pieces! You're off to a good start. These guys are all giving great advice. I'm now going to be 24 y/o, but bought my old girl a month before I turned 19.

 

[The_Eagles’_Nest]

Always mechanical first. I’m 31, I started messing with Mopars at 15. You will learn a lot.

 

[Big_John]

Don't be like me and try and fix too much at a time

^This^

 

[O_Knut]

I have posted a number of comments about the Holley 2210 - here they are...........................:

Search results for query: Holley 2210

After reading and seeing the 2210 is not such a great carb reliability wise, anything that I can swap it with besides the carter unit I’ve been told these could have also came with? Any more reliable carb that will slap onto my current intake? I know if I want a 4 barrel I must swap my intake but how abt a reliable 2 for now

 

[CBODY67]

NO issues with the 2210 as to "reliability"! Main thing is making sure the air horn is not warped from dingbats tightening the air cleaner wing nut far too much. Other than that, I had great results from the TWO of them I have.

Never did a Carter BBD 1.5, but them seem "ancient" to me in the way the "wire" holds the air cleaner stud. BUT they don't have warped air horns either, due to the way the torque runs to the outside of the air cleaner mounting ring.

To me, EITHER one is reliable, as to making the car run well and getting good fuel economy, when they are "right". By observation, the Holley has a more-modern venturi package, for better off-idle feel and ultimate fuel economy. Ever think a 383 2bbl Chrysler could get 20mpg? I did that when the national speed limit went to 55mph, after I exchanged the OEM Stromberg WWC3 for the 1970-spec OEM Holley 2210.

The 2210 is an easy carb to rebuild. Just make sure the gasket area just under the air cleaner stud touches all the way across. That "hole" in the middle of it is the power valve vacuum passage. "No seal" there and the carb is in full power mixture mode all of the time. ALSO, that is the rear seal of the float bowl, which means that under certain choking conditions, fuel from the float bowl can be sucked out of the bowl. Not that hard to fix with some thicker and softer gasket material, which is what Chrysler used in their TSB for that carburetor. PM me for details, if desired.

^^^^Just MY experiences.

As to body mounts? Have not seen any reproduced, which means "salvage yard" from any Fuselage C-body 1970 - 1973.

Key thing is to prioritize things!

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[65Port]

One thing that has saved me many times over the years- don't throw anything away.. Newer is not always better. Keep as much as you can and then go from there. Too many people replace this, that and the other thing then find the old parts were OK but have been thrown out.. Good luck young man!

 

[Xcudame]

Concentrate on the radiator and the carb first! It will be drivable and pretty reliable after that.

Radiator shop is usually (not always) cheaper than a new radiator. Are the tanks in decent shape so a re-core is possible? Avoid cheapo aluminum radiators if you go that route.

That 2210 is so easy to rebuild. With a FSM and assuming yours is FUBAR'ed, It's a great little carb to learn rebuilding on. Of course a 4 bbl intake and carb really wake up a 360, but that can be down the road.

 

[SportFury70]

View attachment 702091
So, after the transmission job had a moth fly out of my wallet, I’m hoping you guys can help me with some quality advice.
Here’s where I am with my car:
Needs new radiator

Needs new carb or carb rebuild

New muffler/ maybe exhaust

Rides like a truck (though handles amazingly just not comfy on bumps at all) (also body bushing shot I can feel the body and the subframe move seperately)

Body work… save that for last

Any advice for doing these things affordably or easily besides junkyarding parts is appreciated. I’m 20 now and though I did work for a time at a mechanics shop, I know fuel injection and sensors far more than I know carbuerators and chokes.
I guess any advice or tips you can give a young guy is appreciated. It may help me decide what else to fix. Carb getting done first then radiator

I see you are from Connecticut like me, I hope to see you at a show sometime this year. If you are looking for a radiator shop, I suggest lookin into these guys….

They are about an hour away from you though, BUT that may cost about $225.00 to $500.00 depending on whats gotta be done. I may have a friend who may have one he wants to get rid of though, I will ask him and get back to you. Your car looks like an original air conditioned car that someone ripped the air out from too by the way, so I believe it would be a 26 inch radiator. As for an exhaust, I would look into maybe having one custom made from a shop because TTI like another member suggested unfortunately does not have small block exhaust. Only for big blocks. I would suggest Pops Muffler shop….

or Roadrunner Exhaust in Massachusetts might be your best bet with price, I don’t know about Pops pricing….

As for the body and paint work when you save up enough money, I have a friend who can probably do it in Cromwell if you would like him to do it. Just PM me and I can reach out to him to contact you or vise versa. As for a carburetor, they are pretty easy to rebuild if you wanted to do it yourself. The key to a good rebuild is to clean it real good. if you want to go Fuel Injection look into Sniper FITECH…. BUT a carburetor would be (in my opinion) significantly cheaper if you are on a budget, and you would have least of a headache of Fuel Injection again in my opinion. A new carburetor would be around $500ish compared to prices I’m seeing with Fuel Injection around $1,000 plus. There are cheap Chinese knockoffs on Ebay for about $150.00 as well and I hear they are pretty good, or like another member said to try Woodruff if you don’t wanna rebuild it. I see you mentioned a junkyard, if that is the route you wanna take may I suggest these guys…..

The guys who own that place (or used to own it, because I don’t know if they still do) Bob and Frank are avid Mopar people and they used to have a bunch of old Mopars from the 1950s to the 1970s in their yard. Just ask for one of them and they can likely steer you in the right direction. If they are not an option, may I suggest these guys in Bernardston Massachusetts…..

Good luck! If you have anymore questions, just ask we’re all here to help.