Tranny pan leakage

"Also, cheap Chinese aluminum pans are not ridgid enough to uniformly distribute the force from the bolt hole evenly. Give it a thorough cleaning, fill it with kibble, and use it as a dog dish."'

Thanks Commando. My cat will love his new food bowl. In your opinion, who makes a pan worthy? My wife is less than pleased with the transmission fluid stained cardboard under my Polara.
 
Stan, your innovative sense of re-purposing is over the top! LOL!!!!!!!!!!!
I recycle.

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n your opinion, who makes a pan worthy?
All joking aside, I would scour ebay and post a "Looking for..." in all the Mopar dedicated forums for a bone stock factory pan. I'd also weld in a drain plug.

I'm a HUGE advocate of stock items. Stuff like pans, thermostat housings, exhaust manifolds, etc...
They have never let me down. The factory pan is one super tough cookie.
 
I found this on eBay

All joking aside, I would scour ebay and post a "Looking for..." in all the Mopar dedicated forums for a bone stock factory pan. I'd also weld in a drain plug.

I'm a HUGE advocate of stock items. Stuff like pans, thermostat housings, exhaust manifolds, etc...
They have never let me down. The factory pan is one super tough cookie.

Would this part work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200806364982?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
 
I don't enough about pan interchange to give you a reliable answer.

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I just called a friend about this. He said the truck pan is simply deeper to accommodate a larger valve body. It will fit and have about a 2 - 3 qt. larger capacity. He did say that he thought that price on ebay was way too high.

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I just called a friend about this. He said the truck pan is simply deeper to accommodate a larger valve body. It will fit and have about a 2 - 3 qt. larger capacity. He did say that he thought that price on ebay was way too high.

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Your friend is correct. That pan is for a ''518'' which (in simple terms) is just a 727 with an overdrive. The aftermarket sells an adapter to lower the filter in the pan, if you want to go that route. I have used that pan many times without it (the adapter) with no problems.
 
Do you ever think about putting a 518 in a Formal?
Yes. Thought about it.
For the 25 miles a week I MAY put on it (if that much), I also thought why bother...
ROI would be around the year 2083.
I think about a ton of "what ifs".
Except for the thought of being locked up with a pair of drug crazed hot 18 year old twins, I dismiss most of them.
 
Yes. Thought about it.
For the 25 miles a week I MAY put on it (if that much), I also thought why bother...
ROI would be around the year 2083.
I think about a ton of "what ifs".
Except for the thought of being locked up with a pair of drug crazed hot 18 year old twins, I dismiss most of them.

Not drug crazed twins....but will do in a pinch

images
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All joking aside, I would scour ebay and post a "Looking for..." in all the Mopar dedicated forums for a bone stock factory pan. I'd also weld in a drain plug.

I'm a HUGE advocate of stock items. Stuff like pans, thermostat housings, exhaust manifolds, etc...
They have never let me down. The factory pan is one super tough cookie.

Don't need to weld in a drain plug. I've been putting these in my 727 pans for years. You still end up with a bit of fluid in the pan...but nothing like the stock set-up.

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I install it on the front right coner of the pan...about center of the curve on the body and pan.
 
The solution (for this pan anyway) is Summit P/N 93110 factory style silicone molded over steel 3/16" thick gasket. After warming up and topping up a retorque and voila no more leaks. Thanks to all the usual suspects for your valuable input.
 
Just to be sure once I install my factory pan I only need to use the previously mentioned gasket without any type of sealant?
 
My preference is no goo. Everyone has their own opinion on goo or no goo.

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I used no goo. Torqued to 150 lbs after warm up . Rechecked after driving awhile.
 
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