66polara
New Member
Dielectric grease it is
Upgrading the electrical system in our 67 Newport Custom
- Thread starter Norwegianmopar
- Start date
Drill a hole in the round plate of the tank sending unit (the plate where the gas line runs through, and the active terminal from the float sensor). You'll have to take the sending unit out to do this.
A hole just big to screw in say a 10-24 short bolt so it sticks out of plate. Solder the head of the bolt in place so it won't leak gas. That bolt is your new ground connection to the tank sending unit. Once the sending unit is mounted back in the gas tank with the locking ring, attach a wire to that bolt and connect it to a nearby convienent (and clean) body screw or bolt. Have it follow the sending unit wire up through the hole in the trunk and find a ground connection in the trunk.
66polara
New Member
That's perfect thank you
That's a good way to do it.
What I did was slightly different, no drilled hole. I soldered a male spade connector to my new sender.
There's probably a bunch of ways to do it, I've even used a hose clamp with a bare wire stripped back where the clip usually is attached on the outlet tube for a temporary fix on a daily driver. I didn't want to take the sender out. (read it was winter and it was cold LOL)
I have a new tank and sending unit, and I have to do this again, but I might try your method rather than drill a hole and put a bolt there.
Pretty easy... I squeezed the crimp barrel down flat and bent the connector 90 degrees.
66polara
New Member
Thank you everyone there are some wonderful suggestions here
66polara
New Member
I love that car btw
Norwegianmopar
Member
Thank you, appreciate that
volksworld
Well-Known Member
i took the sleazy way out on my sender...the tube was long enough to use a screw type hose clamp to clamp a ground wire on to it and still have enough length for the hose to attach properly...
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
You couldn't pay me to install that generic kit on ANY vehicle I own or owned. I see its grossly overpriced also. See if you can find a junkyard salvage harness, get some plywood, stake the old harness onto that, then purchase the same colored primary wire one size larger for each circuit, and build your own harness. You can better customize your harness specifically for your needs that way also. You can even obtain a brand new fuse box specific to your Mopar, using the same 1.25" x 0.25" glass body fuses, which were made to a tighter spec than the modern ones, OR get breakers for the key circuits to fit too.
Mind you, electrical wiring is one of my major specialties and talents, and I realize not every soul is so gifted, but if you love your Mopar, DON'T WASTE YOUR KRONER ON BRAINLESS WIRING HARNESSES!
Best Wishes!
Mind you, electrical wiring is one of my major specialties and talents, and I realize not every soul is so gifted, but if you love your Mopar, DON'T WASTE YOUR KRONER ON BRAINLESS WIRING HARNESSES!
Best Wishes!
Check with Evans wiring. They had several harnesses for my 65 Polara. I bought the engine harness from them, and was very pleased with the quality and speed I got it. Swapping harnesses in a couple hours instead or rewiring for several days sounded much better for the minimal cost.
Norwegianmopar
Member
So, we have two defect low beams and since it's sealed beam lamps the availability isn't the greatest here in Norway. We are therefore looking to maybe upgrade to newer lamps where we can change bulbs and would like your input on what to get and/or where to buy.
I would love to get yellow glass lamps like they used in France back in the days, but not sure where I can find any...
Also, when attempting to replace the reverse light bulbs I found out one of the lenses are stuck in the bezel. Just won't budge. Any idea on what to try to avoid breaking it?
Is there anywhere we can buy complete lamps or new lenses in case we are unlucky and break anything?
As always, all advice is highly appreciated!
I would love to get yellow glass lamps like they used in France back in the days, but not sure where I can find any...
Also, when attempting to replace the reverse light bulbs I found out one of the lenses are stuck in the bezel. Just won't budge. Any idea on what to try to avoid breaking it?
Is there anywhere we can buy complete lamps or new lenses in case we are unlucky and break anything?
As always, all advice is highly appreciated!
Norwegianmopar
Member
So we started to find out where the electrical issues were and began in the rear of the car. No reverse lights and we decided to check the bulbs. One of the lamps had no bulb and the other one wouldn't let go of the lens, so we decided to remove the whole lamp to find out more. Tight space and hard to get to, but we got it out in the end. Sprayed the bezel with WD40 and let it sit oversikt to see if it would come off, which it did. Two new 21w bulbs were installed.
We also found the switch on the shifter to be bad so a new one will be ordered monday morning.
Since it was so hard to get it out getting it back in wasn't any easier, so we loosened the rear bumper and pulled it back abit for more clearance. Behind the bumper there was a seal which didn't seem to fit very well and kinda lay on top of the licence plate light bulb. We pulled it off to see if we could fit it better, and what do you know - it was the seal I thought we were missing under the trunk lid, it was just put on there upside down..! All of a sudden we had that rubber seal in place after all, no missing parts there.
One never knows what to find when going thru these old cars.
In addition, the lack of low beams was due to two defect headlights, so new ones will be ordered too. I think we want to upgrade to newer halogen style lamps for future bulb replacements. I am also pondering getting amber lamps for the high beams...I like that old school look.
There is still a birds nest of wiring under the dash that will be looked into, but that will be adressed when we pull the interior and dash after the season.
We also found the switch on the shifter to be bad so a new one will be ordered monday morning.
Since it was so hard to get it out getting it back in wasn't any easier, so we loosened the rear bumper and pulled it back abit for more clearance. Behind the bumper there was a seal which didn't seem to fit very well and kinda lay on top of the licence plate light bulb. We pulled it off to see if we could fit it better, and what do you know - it was the seal I thought we were missing under the trunk lid, it was just put on there upside down..! All of a sudden we had that rubber seal in place after all, no missing parts there.
One never knows what to find when going thru these old cars.
In addition, the lack of low beams was due to two defect headlights, so new ones will be ordered too. I think we want to upgrade to newer halogen style lamps for future bulb replacements. I am also pondering getting amber lamps for the high beams...I like that old school look.
There is still a birds nest of wiring under the dash that will be looked into, but that will be adressed when we pull the interior and dash after the season.
66polara
New Member
Hella housings makes a nice replacement that fit very well and comes w halogen bulbs, it was a big improvement. I did install relays, fuses and new wiring but they work well so far
Norwegianmopar
Member
I just got 4 new sealed beam lamps so it's all good for now. Will try to get two amber high beams too for that retro look I really like.
66polara
New Member
I tried seal beams on mine brand new ones right out of the box and they're still dim. I like to drive evening and when it's dark I just wanted something better. I guess it's the result of driving new cars all these years
Norwegianmopar
Member
Looking for the following parts:
-Reverse light switch for the trans.
-Flasher switch.
Both are defect and needs replacing. I have seen flasher switches on eBay but checking with you guys too.
-Reverse light switch for the trans.
-Flasher switch.
Both are defect and needs replacing. I have seen flasher switches on eBay but checking with you guys too.
3175375
Senior Member
I’m confused.
Your first picture is not the backup light switch.
What year?
I believe this is the switch - it’s mounted on the steering column, almost at the firewall.
A pin in the second picture moves the switch.
Your first picture is not the backup light switch.
What year?
I believe this is the switch - it’s mounted on the steering column, almost at the firewall.
A pin in the second picture moves the switch.
Floor shift has the switch on the shifter.
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