What did you do to your C-body today....

[Newport 66]

Drove it home in the rain from getting the new windshield put in.
" I can see clearly now........."

 

[rags]

from 6/28. put the top down on the '69 for the first time this year.

drove it to work.

whee!

 

[LocuMob]

from 6/28. put the top down on the '69 for the first time this year.View attachment 298117 drove it to work.View attachment 298118whee!View attachment 298119

That's the only sunroof I want in a car.

 

[GBsPanhead]

New front shocks. What a PITA!! Old ones were Sears heavy duty from what I could read. Had to use the angle grinder/cutter to cut tips off old shocks. Compressed old shock....no rebound. Had to drop axle to get in. Compressed new shocks, but couldn't get them in, so dropped axle. That's the easiest way I found. Was going to do rear but I'm beat lol.

 

[Joseph James]

New front shocks. What a PITA!! Old ones were Sears heavy duty from what I could read. Had to use the angle grinder/cutter to cut tips off old shocks. Compressed old shock....no rebound. Had to drop axle to get in. Compressed new shocks, but couldn't get them in, so dropped axle. That's the easiest way I found. Was going to do rear but I'm beat lol.

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I was looking at those gas-a-just shocks at Rock Auto. Could you let us know how well they work?

Congratulations on the job you did.

All I did today was change my lower radiator hose.

 

[Turboomni]

I just recently installed a full set of KYB gas adjust shocks on my 69 Fury. I got the rears in no problem but took the car to my buddies lift for help for the fronts..
I love the shocks ride. Firmed it up but not rough. The rears had air shocks and the front were crap of some recent kind. It felt like I added a rear away bar. Everything is so much better. I recommend them. With a discount special I got all 4 for 120 bucks or so at Rock Auto.

 

[GBsPanhead]

Good to have confirmation KYBs are good. I think I read on here was a good option. Just did right rear, just the left rear to do, then done. I also hit the drums with a wire wheel and some flat black Rustoleum.

 

[GBsPanhead]

Shocks all done front and rear. Long *** day! Also replaced all the lug nuts. PO had all locks and no key! Front left was LH thread, left rear was RH. Thought left would of been all LH thread. That added time to the day. And new/old floor mats!! Period correct I think.

Wheels are 15x8 all around. Thought they were 15x7s all this time.

Went on a 10 minute drive or so, tried to find some dips etc in the road. Night and day! Very controlled, no wandering or fluffiness. I like it!! Couple more pics...

 

[Turboomni]

Nice job , now enjoy!

 

[rkrochen]

Located a used rad at National Moparts, those guys go above and beyond. Unfortunately mine was in bad shape and the upper tank was shot. The rad I got was a recent recore in excellent condition. Went to fit it but I needed to rework the mounting holes, no big deal. Then I found out that the bottom rad hose outlet was 1 3/4” vs 1 1/2” again no big deal. Off to the local parts store and get the proper one. Anyways it’s in an that problem is now behind me.
Got the car done and out today for the local town parade and car show.

 

[Dsertdog]

Red is stuck on a lift waiting for new exhaust flanges.
So I'm pricing out pieces for converting the master cylinder over to a new disc unit.

 

[LocuMob]

Red is stuck on a lift waiting for new exhaust flanges.
So I'm pricing out pieces for converting the master cylinder over to a new disc unit.

Do you have discs up front, or are you planning on swapping over to them?

 

[rkrochen]

Well to my disappointment my clock quit working. For some reason this bothered me so I took it out to check on the problem. Most of the time it is a simple grounding issue at the back of the clock but not this time, why should things get easier now. On disassembly the external ground and power points all check ok. I checked the pull in coil and it seemed fine but I noticed that the internal ground tab was broken off. First pic shows the tab second one is the pic of the missing tab. Fortunately I had a spare and I made one good one out of two. She’s working again. Time for the next project.

 

[WissaMan]

The driver-side power window was barely working. So we removed the motor, disassembled and cleaned up the commutator and brushes, then lubricated everything. It works much better now!

 

[Dsertdog]

Do you have discs up front, or are you planning on swapping over to them?

No I want to install later model discs. Just a long term dream, but I still need to convert to a dual master cylinder. Might as well start with the expensive disc brake parts.

My new steel fan arrived today so before I head to my job, I'll bolt it to the fan clutch.

 

[LocuMob]

If you're keeping the drums, I'd just get a '67 and newer drum dual master circuit, and then get a disc dual master when you actually get the discs. It may work fine, but I'd run what it should use for the setup on the car, not what you're planning on. My .02¢

 

[1978 NYB]

New front shocks. What a PITA!! Old ones were Sears heavy duty from what I could read. Had to use the angle grinder/cutter to cut tips off old shocks. Compressed old shock....no rebound. Had to drop axle to get in. Compressed new shocks, but couldn't get them in, so dropped axle. That's the easiest way I found. Was going to do rear but I'm beat lol.

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How do you like the KYB's???

 

[Dsertdog]

If you're keeping the drums, I'd just get a '67 and newer drum dual master circuit, and then get a disc dual master when you actually get the discs. It may work fine, but I'd run what it should use for the setup on the car, not what you're planning on. My .02¢

Well, if I had a bit more disposable income that would make perfect sense.

My brake guy tells me there's no issue in running the disc brake MC with drums as long as I install a proportioning valve for the rears.
This project is many months down the road. There's so much more to do now. I was bored and the car is in the exhaust shop so I thought I'd price a few items. I didn't even price calipers or rotors....
Today I've been to the shop twice. The new flanges arrived at 2 pm, and Red is finally getting some attention. My installer plans on finishing her in the morning. Fine with me, it's supposed to storm tonight so if he'd have gotten done, we'd have just put Red in storage.

 

[live4theking]

My brake guy tells me there's no issue in running the disc brake MC with drums as long as I install a proportioning valve for the rears. This project is many months down the road. There's so much more to do now. I was bored and the car is in the exhaust shop so I thought I'd price a few items. I didn't even price calipers or rotors....

I'm no master tech, but I'm going to disagree with your brake guy. When I was in the process of getting the NYer back on the road the brakes we very very very touchy. One of the guys here pointed out that my master was intended for disc not drums. After I swapped it out the braking was much more dependable and predictable.

 

[thrashingcows]

^^^^....I have to agree. If you want to run the disc/drum master then use adjustable pressure valves on both the front and rear circuits....then you can dial in your brakes and not have the super sensitive front drum brakes. And when you eventually convert to disc you just adjust the valve for your new set-up.

When I converted my 68 wagon to 73 disc set-up I run a mid 80's aluminum MC and run the front disc circuit straight off the MC...no valve or anything, and then run the rear circuit with an adjustable valve.