Wheel fitment 67 Newport Custom

Norwegianmopar

Norwegianmopar

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So, still looking for another set of wheels to ship over to Norway with the car to have a different look from the Magnum 500s that's on it now.

Have found a wheel we like but not sure about fitments. My buddy is concerned with the lack of space behind the fender skirts.

They come in 15, 17, 18 and 20 inches but we are only considering 15 or 17.

Will 17x7 fronts and 17x8 rears be a problem you think? They can be had with either 0 mm or +6 mm offsets it seems.

15s in 7/8 with is of course also an option but 17s will offer a different look. Might get beefier tires on 15s tho.

All tips and input is appreciated here since we should decide pretty soon due to shipping deadlines on the containers.

bg_oldschool_20x95-1509-537-00-500.png


FB_IMG_1707820970887.jpg
 
Rather than just worry about the fender skirts, stick your hand up between the tire sidewall and the inner wheelhouse to see how much room is NOT there (with the car on the ground). Then consider that in cornering, the rubber bushings in the leaf springs can also decrease that space as they deflect under cornering forces (which might not be much, but still a consideration).

I have seen VN-501s on Plymouth Furys with in the 15x7 4.0" backspacing configuration that looked good. Even in a 17" size which had the same OD/revs per mile as the H78-14 tires it came with. Looked good. As the shiny rim area tended to mask the fact it was a blackwall BFG 17" radial. What you've selected can look good, too.

Looking in TireRack, many of the higher-perf 17" tires are less expensive than similar 15" tires. As the BFG Radial T/As have increased in price a good bit. The OTHER thing about the majority of 17" tires is that they START at 8/32" tread depth, or a bit shallower. THAT can impact wet traction at highway speeds. After several thousand miles, they get to be "1/2 wore out" compared to normal tires that start at 11/32" tread depth. Something I discovered a while back. As much as I don't like the current pricing of Radial T/As, I had several sets of them go for 92K miles and still had a decent amount of tread on them. Just some things to consider. They were also good in the snow (my Camaro has PTrac, too).

Personally, I'd forget the staggered wheel sizes front to rear. All 7" wide wheels. Keep the rocker panels parallel to the road surface with the stock front ride height too. Handling will be better, too.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
Norwegianmopar said:
Can this list of alternative wheel sizes be trusted to be accurate?
Click to expand...
Offhand, I'd say no. Most internet sources like that have errors. I think Tire Rack will have more accurate tire dimensions, but even that may have errors.

Realistically, the best way to figure out what would work is with something like this. https://www.amazon.com/BuliBoao-Sim...327&sprefix=wheel+fitment+tool,aps,126&sr=8-6

I've seen where tires will fit one car perfectly, but close and not fit another even though it's the same year/make/model or even side to side on the same car. Many factors contribute to that, but manufacturing tolerances were such that there could be less space in one wheel well and more in another. If you ever saw how these cars were welded together, mostly using hand held spot welders and alignment tabs, you'd understand why.

For example, I had an '69 A12 Roadrunner that the big rear tires on Keystone wheels fit great on one side, but the other had very minimal clearance on the other. They didn't fit at all on my other '69 Roadrunner.

But I also understand you don't have the car yet, so that might not be possible to do the proper measuring, so I would stay very conservative with anything you buy.
 
Norwegianmopar said:
Can this list of alternative wheel sizes be trusted to be accurate?

1967 Chrysler Newport Custom 2-Door Hardtop 383 V-8 tire sizes (since September 1966 for North America U.S.)
Click to expand...
The base Newport came with 8.25x14 tires. If factory a/c was in the mix, then 8.55x14 tires. Wagons got 9.00x14 tires. Power Disc Brakes got 8.45x15 tires. In 1965-1968 CHRYSLER models.

To get to the P-Metric sizes, just convert the sidewall widths to "mm" rather than "inches". Which will work for the "75" aspect ratio tire sizes. If going to "70" from "75", add 10mm to the width. Then another 10mm for a "60" tire. Always being aware of the total sidewall width and how it relates to rim width AND revs/mile (for speedometer accuracy).

8.25x15 = 209.55mm >> P205/75R-15 approx 769 revs/mile
P215/75R-15 approx 754 revs/mile
P225/70R-15 approx 754 revs/mile
8.55x15 P225/75R-15 approx 737 revs/mile
P235/70R-15 approx 745 revs/mile
P245/60R-15 approx 785 revs/mile

P225/55R-17 777 revs/mile BFG g-Force COMP-2 A/S PLUS
9.1" wide mounted on a 7" rim 6400lb @ 51psi
P235/55R-17 766 revs/mile BFG as above 9.7" wide on 7.5" rim
7716 @ 50psi rated weight capacity

8.25x14 = 209.55mm > > P215/75R-14 approx 782 revs/mile
8.55x14 = 217.17mm > > P225/75R-14 gets very close to 755 revs/mile, usually.

As you can see, some of the P-Metric sizes do not exactly match-up with the older sizes. Which makes two things to consider. Revs/mile (diameter) sizing and weight carrying capacity. To me, the 8.55 size is very good for C-body Chryslers as it affords about 2000lbs or additional weight over what the cars actual weight (with one or two people in them). Which, to me, makes the P235/55R-17 a viable choice, provided it is not too wide for the rear wheel wells (and skirts) on a 7" rim with 4" backspacing. Which might indicate a 4.25" backspacing.

The "hard points" on the suspension system on the '65-'68 Chryslers are, on the front, the outer tie-rod to wheel sidewall clearance (which the larger 17" wheel might help). On the rear, the inner sidewall to leaf spring clearance, plus the outer sidewall to wheel house/skirt clearance. On the rear, check BOTH sides as they might not be exactly the same!

With the added weight capacity of the P235/55-17, no real need to run them at max inflation pressure, it seems to me.

Hope this might help,
CBODY67
 
Last edited:
I currently have 275/50/17 on the rear with room to spare. Might go a bit wider when these need to be replaced.

20220925_102905.jpg
 
Norwegianmopar said:
Did some size comparing and got these results.

I think 235/60 R17 might look good on the car and I want to go for DB Redlines like these:

https://dbtires.com/product/diamond-back-touring/

View attachment 645266

View attachment 645267

View attachment 645268

View attachment 645269
Click to expand...
These websites are good for comparison, BUT they deal with "numbers presented", which is good for many things. YET, there is a variance of what these numbers represent and what the tire manufacturers actually produce, which is where the "Specs" chart for particular tires at the www.tirerack.com website come into play. That is manufacturer's information rather than theoretical information. The numbers I presented in my post came from the Hankook Kinergy ST charts and BFG Comp charts at TireRack.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
Norwegianmopar said:
Can this list of alternative wheel sizes be trusted to be accurate?

1967 Chrysler Newport Custom 2-Door Hardtop 383 V-8 tire sizes (since September 1966 for North America U.S.)
Click to expand...

It's just a list of tire sizes that all give the same tire diameter. It doesn't mention rim width.

I imagine when it comed to suspension geometry and rim fitment, the '67 Newport would be similar / identical to a '67 Monaco. In which case I can say that rim contact (or tire contact) with the outer tie rod is the first concern if the rim does not have proper back-spacing. The next concern will be rim contact with the upper control arm. The rear rims are less of a concern, there is more room before contact with the springs will happen. The factory original 14" rims (5.5" wide) with G78-14 tires have 1 inch space between the tire and the tie rod.

If the car has front drum brakes, then the alternate wheel being considered must have a center hole clearance large enough and deep enough for the hub.
 
What I put on my '67 Newport was the 14x6.5" station wagon wheels with P245-70R-14 BFG Advantage T/As. They are tight in the back. Pretty much a 9" wide tire on the 6.5" rims. With the car on rocker panel area jack stands and the rear extension fully-extended on the shock absorbers, I had to wiggle the tire past the rear brake drums. Once there, no real issues. To me, anything wider would require the shocks to be unhooked and things gangle on the rear leaf springs. Just my experiences.

On the '66 Newport, we had some H78-14 bias plies which measured almost 70% aspect ratio. There were witness marks on the rubber shields on the outer tie rod ends (which was factory equipment that model year).

CBODY67
 
Shakerdave said:
If I can find mine I'll check. I'm pretty confident they would fit.
Click to expand...
Couldn't find the skirts. Sorry for the crappy picture, but I think it would be too close for my liking. I can fit more rubber under there though, once these wear out.

20240221_165755.jpg
 
Norwegianmopar said:
So, still looking for another set of wheels to ship over to Norway with the car to have a different look from the Magnum 500s that's on it now.

Have found a wheel we like but not sure about fitments. My buddy is concerned with the lack of space behind the fender skirts.

They come in 15, 17, 18 and 20 inches but we are only considering 15 or 17.

Will 17x7 fronts and 17x8 rears be a problem you think? They can be had with either 0 mm or +6 mm offsets it seems.

15s in 7/8 with is of course also an option but 17s will offer a different look. Might get beefier tires on 15s tho.

All tips and input is appreciated here since we should decide pretty soon due to shipping deadlines on the containers.

View attachment 645062

View attachment 645063
Click to expand...
Personally, those wheels look awesome. Now, if you want to change the look, stay with 15 inch. I have the same car and it came with factory 14 inch steel wheels and hub caps. I did change to 15 inch wheels, and remember, if you change the diameter of the wheel, you are going to have to change the gear on your speedometer drive (in transmission). Even from 14 to 15 inch wheels, it made a difference. You might be able to get away with 16 inch, or 17 inch, but will have to stay with a lower profile tire for clearance. That's why I suggest you just stay with 15 inch. Change your look and not your ride. May I ask, what are you going to do with the 500 wheels?

Newport at lake house.jpg


2020-11-28 (46).jpg
 
nightman61 said:
Personally, those wheels look awesome. Now, if you want to change the look, stay with 15 inch. I have the same car and it came with factory 14 inch steel wheels and hub caps. I did change to 15 inch wheels, and remember, if you change the diameter of the wheel, you are going to have to change the gear on your speedometer drive (in transmission). Even from 14 to 15 inch wheels, it made a difference. You might be able to get away with 16 inch, or 17 inch, but will have to stay with a lower profile tire for clearance. That's why I suggest you just stay with 15 inch. Change your look and not your ride. May I ask, what are you going to do with the 500 wheels?

View attachment 645897

View attachment 645898
Click to expand...

The Magnums will stay with the car, I just want a second set for it.
The diameter won't change because of a bigger rim, just less rubber around it. I will not go too big in rims and sacrifice comfort.
 
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