Which Trailer to Buy (and features) for moving 72-73 Imperials around town?

I have to say that even with 10 cars in good running condition I never felt the Need to have a car Trailer of my own. In 30 years I rented Trailers maybe 5 times which cost me about 350 bucks and no Trailer parking around my place to pull from one Corner to the other and catching rust and dust and defects from Long storage. Another Story if you constantly travel around to buy Project and parts cars.

Your cars are all in extraordinary condition, the most I could see for now would be taking the Imperial coupe to the paintshop with some trim off, still operable. Some things needed for safe Operation can still be put off at the shop.


I'd just think it over once more and then put the savings into another car. :p
Opportunity knocked at the right time, I had just bought the house... with the solid deck, she's done more work hauling for the house than the cars. I couldn't replace her.
You guys have bigger balls than me. There is no way I would put a 10,000 pound trailer behind a 1/2 ton truck. To be honest I would not pull a tag trailer over 7000#. I cannot back up a tag trailer either.
I see your point, but this trailer has been the safest towing I've ever done... at 7K... she's at the limit with the Formal, and an equalizing hitch wouldn't have been an awful idea. She was well behaved and stopped well with 4 wheel electric brakes... some moron on I4 stopped for a text message to help me prove her ability and the lighter front end let me find out the "burb's ABS was still functioning too.

I would agree that a 3/4 ton would have been superior, but mostly due to the full floating axles and bigger brakes... the little more spring wouldn't hurt, but wasn't what I felt was the biggest advantage. Tow bar, car dollies and uhauls with hydraulic brakes haven't ever impressed me as much. I'd use this one to haul within the state, but I wouldn't feel more secure with her behind the 3/4 ton P/U unless I put some weight at the tailgate.
Also take into account that you commute in said vehicle most of the time with no trailer and or loaded, which changes the vehicle dynamics greatly. With a trailer that is blowing the GVWR out of the water, this will become very bad at the wrong time. With someone as young as Nick that's a long time to be paying for someone else until the lawyers run out of ink.
1999 Chevrolet Suburban Specs & Performance

I'm guessing weights here... but I believe I'm pushing the limit, not crossing it with a Formal onboard. BTW a 4x4 or P/U would have a lower capacity.
Yea, all of the damage done to my trailer has been done by someone else.

In a side note..... This is how things work....

I mentioned to my son that I might sell the trailer... and it's something I've been thinking of... and he said something about buying it. I told him that I didn't need the big truck (Ford Excursion Diesel) anymore either and he's wanted that for a while.... So we made a deal for the truck and trailer. He's gotta get final spouse approval, but she's real open to the idea.

Best part!!! I can go borrow the truck and trailer if I need it!!

So... I may be shopping for a little pickup!
:thumbsup: the perfect plan.
I'm sure if I painted my dually RED, you'd buy it!!! :rofl:

View attachment 187821
Don't ruin her... I love her as she sits.
 
Doc, keep the trailer you have, or sell it to me! :rofl: It should be fine for your needs. I bought a trailer more suited for a Bobcat, and it doesn't get used much.

The trailer I borrowed to get my Polara 500, that taught me everything I needed to know about future trailer purchases. I'm going to go massive overkill on the axles. It has little axles with 5 bolt wheels, and hey were bent before we ever touched the trailer. We had one tire we swapped, another blew out three hours later, and when we got back home, 3500 miles later, the other side tires were shot. It was a 20' aluminum deck and frame unit, nice, just didn't have strong enough axles. I don't care what they say when I order one with the heaviest axles available, if they don't like it I'll go somewhere else.

It sure is nice to have one to use when you need it, only if it's a few times a year.
 
I would check your state laws regarding trailers. In PA, there are advantages to buying a trailer under 10k lb GVWR. Many PA manufactures offer trailers of 9990 lb GVWR.

"No truck may be operated with a gross weight in excess of its registered gross weight. No combination containing a trailer having a gross weight or registered gross weight in excess of 10,000 pounds shall be operated with a gross weight in excess of the registered gross weight of the truck or truck tractor for a combination."

Having said that, I see the advantage to the aluminum trailers because the curb weight is significantly lower so you can haul more and stay under the GVWR. I was going to go this route but I have another idea now.

First a brief overview. I bought the Warn 2" receiver mounting system and 20' cable so I can mount my 8500 lb winch to the rear receiver of my truck.

Warn Industries - Mounting Systems: Multi-Mount Winch Mounting System

multi-mount-winch-mounting-system.jpg


My plan is to get a steel trailer and weld a 2" receiver to the front of the trailer.

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Mounted upside down so the receiver is on top of the tongue facing the deck of the trailer.

This way, I can hook my Warn winch to the trailer and connect to the power I ran to the back bumper of my truck. I can use the winch when needed but take it off the trailer when it's not needed.

This will require a steel trailer because dissimilar metals don't mix, ie. aluminum and steel.

That's the direction I plan to go when I finally pull the trigger on a trailer.
 
I would check your state laws regarding trailers. In PA, there are advantages to buying a trailer under 10k lb GVWR. Many PA manufactures offer trailers of 9990 lb GVWR.

"No truck may be operated with a gross weight in excess of its registered gross weight. No combination containing a trailer having a gross weight or registered gross weight in excess of 10,000 pounds shall be operated with a gross weight in excess of the registered gross weight of the truck or truck tractor for a combination."

Having said that, I see the advantage to the aluminum trailers because the curb weight is significantly lower so you can haul more and stay under the GVWR. I was going to go this route but I have another idea now.

First a brief overview. I bought the Warn 2" receiver mounting system and 20' cable so I can mount my 8500 lb winch to the rear receiver of my truck.

Warn Industries - Mounting Systems: Multi-Mount Winch Mounting System

View attachment 187835

My plan is to get a steel trailer and weld a 2" receiver to the front of the trailer.

View attachment 187836
Mounted upside down so the receiver is on top of the tongue facing the deck of the trailer.

This way, I can hook my Warn winch to the trailer and connect to the power I ran to the back bumper of my truck. I can use the winch when needed but take it off the trailer when it's not needed.

This will require a steel trailer because dissimilar metals don't mix, ie. aluminum and steel.

That's the direction I plan to go when I finally pull the trigger on a trailer.
You could just get a piece of 2" tubing and mount that, save a bunch if money. All you need is the tube to mount the winch, not the entire hitch.
 
You could just get a piece of 2" tubing and mount that, save a bunch if money. All you need is the tube to mount the winch, not the entire hitch.
You're right but I want to make sure it's strong enough. I have a tendency to over-engineer so I don't have to fix things later.
 
Doc, keep the trailer you have, or sell it to me! :rofl: It should be fine for your needs. I bought a trailer more suited for a Bobcat, and it doesn't get used much.

The trailer I borrowed to get my Polara 500, that taught me everything I needed to know about future trailer purchases. I'm going to go massive overkill on the axles. It has little axles with 5 bolt wheels, and hey were bent before we ever touched the trailer. We had one tire we swapped, another blew out three hours later, and when we got back home, 3500 miles later, the other side tires were shot. It was a 20' aluminum deck and frame unit, nice, just didn't have strong enough axles. I don't care what they say when I order one with the heaviest axles available, if they don't like it I'll go somewhere else.

It sure is nice to have one to use when you need it, only if it's a few times a year.
Of course when I want to go out and shop for a trailer...it's a Sunday and a holiday weekend...I have some dealers close to check out this week after they reopen.
 
Of course when I want to go out and shop for a trailer...it's a Sunday and a holiday weekend...I have some dealers close to check out this week after they reopen.
Hey... I gotta look for a new truck because of this thread.
 
Hey... I gotta look for a new truck because of this thread.
Hee's a project I've thought about once or twice... It just doesn't meet my desires. 3 pedals and column shift automatic... swapped small block and short bed :realcrazy:
1973 Dodge Truck Extended Cab

1973 Dodge Truck Extended Cab - $1300 (Debary)

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"Rare truck. Extended cab 73 Dodge pick up. Great restoration project. Slam it or lift it (I do have a 4wd running gear for same vehicle) Runs and drives but not ready for the road just yet. Clean Florida title. 318/auto."

Of course you'd need the trailer to get her... :lol:
 
So, my original thought was to get another (bigger) trailer and haul and piece meal work on the 72 coupe around town locally with the mechanics/body shop guys I know and trust. However, after further contemplation I thought of option #2. I have used these guys (Unique Specialty Classic Cars/Mankato Mn) with work on the 59 over the years and they sold it for me under their consignment package recently. Another option for the coupe would be to have all the mechanical and body/paint done at this one stop shop. It's about 81 miles away. They charged me $100.00 for pickup of the 57 which is being processed presently to consign with them. I believe they have some leads on it already...But, being a holiday weekend communication is dead. I trust these guys and they did a nice job awhile back on the 59 with a new tranny, etc...I don't think they have seen many Imperials, though...my first wave of repairs would include steering box, steering pump, master cylinder plus booster rebuild(likely), body/paint and I noticed a "check gauge" light staying on recently after starting engine...so some electrical might be in the mix...this would give me more time to shop for the right Imperial trailer while the coupe gets addressed immediately.

 
Lol, Graham aka dobalovr should be able to find a good ram for you.

Hee's a project I've thought about once or twice... It just doesn't meet my desires. 3 pedals and column shift automatic... swapped small block and short bed :realcrazy:
1973 Dodge Truck Extended Cab

1973 Dodge Truck Extended Cab - $1300 (Debary)

View attachment 187901 View attachment 187902 View attachment 187903
"Rare truck. Extended cab 73 Dodge pick up. Great restoration project. Slam it or lift it (I do have a 4wd running gear for same vehicle) Runs and drives but not ready for the road just yet. Clean Florida title. 318/auto."

Of course you'd need the trailer to get her... :lol:

No projects and no new trucks for me. Prerequisites are automatic (for Mrs. BJ) and under $10K. I've had my share of really beat up trucks and really nice trucks that you didn't want to use as a truck. This one should be nice, but not so nice that you don't want to fill the back with mulch.

What I want is a small truck to serve as a second vehicle and make the occasional Lowes/Home Depot run. Hate to break it to you guys, but I have my eye on a couple Ford Rangers that would serve the bill just fine.
 
"No truck may be operated with a gross weight in excess of its registered gross weight. No combination containing a trailer having a gross weight or registered gross weight in excess of 10,000 pounds shall be operated with a gross weight in excess of the registered gross weight of the truck or truck tractor for a combination
This is the law in PA at least. I have never heard of someone getting ticketed for this on a occasional/pleasure use this is mainly for a for hire or commercial type operations.
Federal law states that any trailer with 10,000# capacity even if empty requires a class A CDL, if you stay in your state your laws will be different and you will be okay till you cross the state line.
 
Federal law states that any trailer with 10,000# capacity even if empty requires a class A CDL

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So, I'm fine in Minnesota, but if I go to Iowa, I'd need a Class A CDL based on the weight capacity of the trailer? It's all new to me, the rules for hauling heavy loads over the road. I guess cops generally don't hassle the little guy towing, unless it's something blatantly wrong with the load.
 
Aluminum is nice for the weight savings but they will cost you more up front and no one makes a power tilting trailer if that matters to you.
 
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