Who has upgraded from RV-2 to Sanden?

Luckily I didn’t have any metal shavings what so ever while running ac flush thru the evaporator condenser and lines. Blew both directions. Believe compressor was completely out of oil . Installed a new rv2 from classic auto I sent them from my parts imperial . Did a real nice job. They sent the wrong dryer so when it gets here I’ll charge it up. Sticking with r12. CAA, removes the epr valve . I added a compressor cycling switch (capillary tube type) from napa so it doesn’t freeze up. Can’t wait for vent temps in the 30’s !!!
 
SuicideDoorLincoln said:
Sticking with r12. CAA, removes the epr valve . I added a compressor cycling switch (capillary tube type) from napa so it doesn’t freeze up. Can’t wait for vent temps in the 30’s !!!
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Can you discuss in more detail the use of the cycling switch? I've heard mention and seen some pics, but would like some installation details. I believe the cycle switch is wired in series with the receiver pressure switch and the clutch, but what else, adjustments, calibrations, etc. And the sensing bulb goes....where? Tied against (and insulated with) the suction line?

I ask, because I'm rebuilding my existing system, keeping the Iron Lung and everything else for a nice, original appearance. And I have about 19 pounds of R12 (from the '80s) and will be going with that. From 4 Seasons I have the X-valve (844), receiver (317), pressure switch (758), clutch (833), and the new compressor (57059). So, should I assume that this compressor does NOT have the EPR valve because most users will be going with 134? And that means I'll probably need the cycle switch?

Also, why didn't you put an EPR valve in the CCA compressor? Can't we get an EPR somewhere, or maybe out of my EXISTING compressor? That should work, right, and eliminate the need for the cycle switch?

Does anyone know what the 3 ounces of oil is in the 4 Seasons compressor? Do we assume it's a 12/134 compatible synthetic (which would ease my draining worries)? I plan to totally drain it and add 10 ounces of non-paraffin mineral oil as per the FSM for a totally new/flushed system.

I'm also rebuilding the heater box with the kit from Detroit Muscle, getting the mouse nest (probably!) and other crud cleaned out, and flushing everything with the compressed air/canister system. And a good hour of vacuum before charging.

I put three cans of 134 in to see if anything works in an otherwise dead system....and the compressor came alive and I got some 68 degree air! Better than hot air, and I saw no leaks from the one can of UV 134 I squirted in.

Anyway, please comment on the EPR valve in the 4 Seasons compressor, and the cycle switch. If this has been covered in some other thread, please point me
 
I'll give you my recent experience with (2) Four Seasons compressors.

They come with 3 oz. of PAG oil in them so you will need to drain that out and use mineral oil if you're going to stick with R-12, as I did.

Here is a picture of the oil when I drained it out of the REBUILT Four Seasons compressor.


Suspicious, I pulled the sump and discovered the pan was dirty and the spring was missing for the check valve.
P1010036.JPG
P1010045.JPG


I called Summit, complained and they sent me another one.. Second verse, same as the first.

Dirt in the oil and no spring.


I'm going to clean it up, pinch the spring out of my old compressor and use it, but I'll never buy a Four Seasons item again.

The real ***** of it was I was leaving for Woodward the next day and in a last ditch effort to get the a/c up and running, I had the damn thing shipped overnight. :mad:
 
5wndwcpe said:
I'll give you my recent experience with (2) Four Seasons compressors.
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Absolutely outstanding information, thank you. Any info on the EPR? I guess I can begin to disassemble and clean my 4 Seasons now, in prep for the whole system job in a few weeks (when the weather cools just a bit!). I've heard tell that the remanu's are basically a new seal and a new paint job. Your pics kinda back that story, huh?
 
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5wndwcpe said:
I'll give you my recent experience with (2) Four Seasons compressors.

They come with 3 oz. of PAG oil in them so you will need to drain that out and use mineral oil if you're going to stick with R-12, as I did.

Here is a picture of the oil when I drained it out of the REBUILT Four Seasons compressor.


Suspicious, I pulled the sump and discovered the pan was dirty and the spring was missing for the check valve. View attachment 209087 View attachment 209088

I called Summit, complained and they sent me another one.. Second verse, same as the first.

Dirt in the oil and no spring.


I'm going to clean it up, pinch the spring out of my old compressor and use it, but I'll never buy a Four Seasons item again.

The real ***** of it was I was leaving for Woodward the next day and in a last ditch effort to get the a/c up and running, I had the damn thing shipped overnight. :mad:
Click to expand...

:BangHead::BangHead:
 
Trace 300 Hurst said:
Any info on the EPR?
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I haven't got that far with it (and really didn't consider it) as my car has ATC I and uses an ETR, which, after fixing the shorted gasket/terminal, works as designed. So the plan was to switch it over from my old compressor regardless of what 4 Seasons did or did not provide.
 
I'm now facing the same need for a compressor. Are there any rebuilders besides Four Seasons with a better rep? Has anyone had their compressor rebuilt by Original Air? I am also interested in what to do regarding the EPR valve...
 
TxDon said:
I'm now facing the same need for a compressor. Are there any rebuilders besides Four Seasons with a better rep? Has anyone had their compressor rebuilt by Original Air? I am also interested in what to do regarding the EPR valve...
Click to expand...

I did nothing with the EPR and still got 34° at the vent.
 
5wndwcpe said:
I haven't got that far with it....... the plan was to switch it over from my old compressor regardless of what 4 Seasons did or did not provide.
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TxDon said:
I am also interested in what to do regarding the EPR valve...
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My 4 Seasons unit DID NOT come with an EPR valve, cuz I pulled the port cover off for a look and it's not there. So, cannibalize your existing EPR, soak it in lacquer thinner or AC flush in a closed glass jar and try to "back flush" it to get any junk out of the tiny holes in the valve guts. Compressed air is fine, too, but NOT brake kleeeener, as this leaves a residue, believe it or not. (This from Classic Air). Note regarding the EPR: It's raw steel and will corrode very easily due to humidity. No fingerprints, always have oil on it once it's clean, and keep it in a ziplock when it's not soaking the thinner or going back in the compressor (all nice and oily). As has been discussed, the EPR prevents evap freeze-up with 12, but isn't needed with 134. (Again, advice from Classic)

My 4 Seasons unit DID NOT come with oil pump check-ball and spring. I don't understand this. Does the re-manufacturing work include some flow restriction orifice that negates the need for some back pressure on the system? I don't see anything up the check hole. Regardless, I'll be cannibalizing that item from my existing RV-2, too.

By pulling the sump (fortunately, the reman gasket came apart easily and will be reused), the 3 ounces of PAG prefill oil is now gone, which I wanted it to be. It had no metal bits (neo-magnet search!) and the bottom of the sump was clean. I'll be using pure, no-paraffin refrigerant mineral oil with my R-12 redo and not any of the 12/134 compatible PAG ester oils. Not that there's anything wrong with the modern "compatibles" at all (according to Classic), it's just that there's no need to do that if you're sticking with 12.
 
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I see that refilling with R12 is mentioned in many of the posts here. As R12 is verboten in Canada what are the thoughts on using the R12A "Thane" refills? Am I gonna blow it all to hell if I get a leak?
 
Dobalovr said:
I see that refilling with R12 is mentioned in many of the posts here. As R12 is verboten in Canada what are the thoughts on using the R12A "Thane" refills? Am I gonna blow it all to hell if I get a leak?
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My NYB with the Sanden conversion has R12A in it. Works fine. I also used R12A in my '06 F150 to give it a recharge. Icey cold, no problems.
 
All,

I have a call and email discussion going with a very helpful 4S tech guy regarding the check ball issue. The good news is he's a Mopar guy and has a few 70's cars and several old spare compressors at home. He was unaware of the issue and will research it and get back to me. I'll report here ASAP.
 
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5wndwcpe said:
I haven't got that far with it (and really didn't consider it) as my car has ATC I and uses an ETR, which, after fixing the shorted gasket/terminal, works as designed. So the plan was to switch it over from my old compressor regardless of what 4 Seasons did or did not provide.
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In your Tuesday 8/28 post--where you had pics of your dirty oil and crud in the sump--you mentioned that you had no check spring. But did you have a CHECK BALL in the passage?
 
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commando1 said:
My NYB with the Sanden conversion has R12A in it. Works fine. I also used R12A in my '06 F150 to give it a recharge. Icey cold, no problems.
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Well that makes me feel better. I am putting the AC back together in my 79 this weekend and was going to use R12a to recharge it.

Thanks Stan!
 
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