Worthy upgrade over an existing aluminum radiator?

furious70 said:
Your charger behaves the same way with the same equipment. Dad had electric fans on it and when I brought it to the city it immediately started overheating. OEM clutch fan made it much better but the temp creeps in summer traffic jams. 100% a shroud would help but I haven't figured out how to make one either for the universal rad. If I ever go on 'Tour with it I'll need a different solution.
Click to expand...

We're definitely in the same boat! I got accepted into Sick Summer so I'm worried about the traffic jams getting into a couple of the tracks. Have been spending money hand over fist on it, lol.

Summit's site also allows searching fans by size, and they have the OEM electric ones in there as well. The HHR and Contour fans fit great on a Mopar sized radiator core but the crossflow one I have is narrower so I can't find a decent electric solution. Like Kevin said, the aftermarket single 16" fans are crap compared to some of the OEM stuff.

I do have a 160* t-stat in it already. Will start by trying to put one of the universal shrouds on it and get the clutch spacing right. Thanks guys!
 
When constructing your system, make sure to seal all air leaks around shroud so that air is not going around the rad but through it. If you look at stock systems you will see the hood to rad support seal and how well the shroud fits to the rad, then you make sure that the distance from blade tip to shroud is close but not so close that engine torque will cause contact, then as I stated before the depth of the blade into the shroud is important.
I forgot the timing, Correct initial timing as far advanced as your engine wants will help with cooler running.
 
furious70 said:
I run the 7 blade and clutch on the charger now. Strangely, a flex fan and shroud works as well or better on the fury. Maybe the original clutch wore out. It's pretty annoying that there's no bench test for them
Click to expand...
I don't believe there is any way to bench test them, however if it's installed on a running car, you can test it with a rolled up newspaper, or the like. Wait until it's warm, then gently stick the rolled up newspaper in the fan. If it stops, it's no good. If it makes confetti, it's good.
 
Blusmbl said:
It's a crossflow radiator with no provisions to mount an OEM style shroud, that's part of the problem. The end of the fan clutch is about an inch from the rear face of the radiator core.

I agree that a shroud on the current radiator would probably fix it, but any of the reproduction shrouds won't fit due to the locations of the tanks, and my fab ability isn't good enough to make something that looks nice enough that I'd like to have bolted onto the car.
Click to expand...
Any competent sheet metal shop should be able to make you a shroud.
 
If you are really wanted to stay with aluminum rad, go with your idea of aluminum rad with top tank and mounts for original shroud.
 
Blusmbl said:
We're definitely in the same boat! I got accepted into Sick Summer so I'm worried about the traffic jams getting into a couple of the tracks. Have been spending money hand over fist on it, lol.

Summit's site also allows searching fans by size, and they have the OEM electric ones in there as well. The HHR and Contour fans fit great on a Mopar sized radiator core but the crossflow one I have is narrower so I can't find a decent electric solution. Like Kevin said, the aftermarket single 16" fans are crap compared to some of the OEM stuff.

I do have a 160* t-stat in it already. Will start by trying to put one of the universal shrouds on it and get the clutch spacing right. Thanks guys!
Click to expand...
I wouldn't be so worried about sick week or drag week, power tour had some nasty backups the one year we went.
Though I did get stuck for 20 min leaving Byron last year cuz of construction. Good thing I had the hellcat
 
furious70 said:
It's what my dad did in 2008 when building the car. There were many less options for all this stuff 15 yrs ago.
I ran the same thing in my coronet for racing and it worked fine with a JY elec fan. 125 more ponies to cool but never had to sit in traffic
Click to expand...
well when i did mine 7 yrs ago i went with a copper brass one it was cheaper / i also had a bad fan clutch it had a exstream duty but all the news in the parts stores was bad i bought a hd one & put in a high flow 160 degree thermostat that took care of the over heating
the standard parts store thermostat have small opening's while the mopar high flow one has a big opening . now mopar no longer has them bu MR Gasket bought the rights to them & they make a exact copy of it
 
furious70 said:
Please explain as the factory manual says no and I've tried to heat them to test them.
Click to expand...
u check for side play on the mechanical but onthe thermo ones there is non but watching it . it sould go faster as it the motor heats up & the temp onthe motor should drop/go down . thats how i have allways done it now the one u want is a heavy-duty | HaydenAuto here is the website . get one for ac on a big block c body in the old Mopar performance racing catalog Mopar use to sell them . the reason they had them as it didnt take powrr from th motor .unlike the socalled flex fans or the electric fans they can make the chargeing system work harder to recharge try this its from the rock auto catalog yur local parts store should be able to get it More Information for HAYDEN 2747
 
marty koirtyohann said:
u check for side play on the mechanical but onthe thermo ones there is non but watching it . it sould go faster as it the motor heats up & the temp onthe motor should drop/go down . thats how i have allways done it now the one u want is a heavy-duty | HaydenAuto here is the website . get one for ac on a big block c body in the old Mopar performance racing catalog Mopar use to sell them . the reason they had them as it didnt take powrr from th motor .unlike the socalled flex fans or the electric fans they can make the chargeing system work harder to recharge try this its from the rock auto catalog yur local parts store should be able to get it More Information for HAYDEN 2747
Click to expand...
here is another thermo clutch More Information for HAYDEN 2947its sa low profile one if u have clearance issues
 
A Simple Lab Test of A Thermal Fan Clutch

You can check how well the thermal clutch works by mounting it statically, then hanging some fixed weights off the very end of one fan blade which starts parallel with the ground. Note how much weight is required to move the fan blade. Multiply this weight by the radius of the fan blade. Be sure your untis make sense, such as inch-lbs, or even ft-lbs, or convert to SI units, and go with N-m. (Not many SI fans here!)

Start with your fan hub at room temperature, then gently heat it in 20 degree or less intervals, and note how much the weight for overcoming the fan clutch's static friction increases. One might resort to even 5 degree intervals when nearing engine running temperature.

Make a Table of Values, with the weights and temperatures! Now, this isn't too difficult, is it?
 
I test the thermal clutches with a no-contact digital laser tach.
Start cold/80 degrees at 500 to 2500 rpm and cycle to hot/190 degrees at 500 to 2500 rpm. It has to be running to get the viscous fluid to migrate.
You will know if it's working.
And the mid 70s factory Mopar flex fans work really well with the factory shroud and run plenty quiet.
 
Just Carbs said:
I test the thermal clutches with a no-contact digital laser tach.
Start cold/80 degrees at 500 to 2500 rpm and cycle to hot/190 degrees at 500 to 2500 rpm. It has to be running to get the viscous fluid to migrate.
You will know if it's working.
And the mid 70s factory Mopar flex fans work really well with the factory shroud and run plenty quiet.
Click to expand...
GET A AC MAX COOO RADAATOR & THE RIGHT HAYDEN AC FAN CLUTCH IT SOULD TAKE CARE F YUTR OVER HEATING PROBLEMS UN LESS U HAVE BORED THE BLOCK
 
Just Carbs said:
I test the thermal clutches with a no-contact digital laser tach.
Start cold/80 degrees at 500 to 2500 rpm and cycle to hot/190 degrees at 500 to 2500 rpm. It has to be running to get the viscous fluid to migrate.
You will know if it's working.
And the mid 70s factory Mopar flex fans work really well with the factory shroud and run plenty quiet.
Click to expand...

That seems like a decent test method. I still would try a static friction test after spinning it up. You're right that the clutch fluid requires some centripetal acceleration to distribute it. It still might be interesting to try a static friction test after spinning and warming it up. Alas, with limited funds and growing rug monkeys here, Science sometimes takes a back seat in the Morris Bus.
 
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