polara71
Old Man with a Hat
Did you contact firm feel?
YES, YES, YES!!! Firm Feel Rear Sway Bar
- Thread starter SF-66TC
- Start date
SF-66TC
Well-Known Member
As a matter of fact, Yes I did contact Firm Feel via email sending it directly to the tech support person I had spoken to about the Tubular Control Arms. In the email I even suggested using bolts instead of the 5/16" screws they provided. Needless to say I never got a response. I happened to go back to Firm Feels site and SAW that in their advertising photo that the sway bar IS pictured WITH "Bolts" AND NOT "Screws". I came to the conclusion they're supplying the 4 screws rather than 4-bolts, 8-washers and 4-nylon locking nuts due to cost.
Here's the photo from their web-site - The photo shows bolts, however they provide screws & their instructions indicate to use them as well.
Here's the instructions they provide -
If you look carefully at the first photo of the instructions you will see that it shows the shock un-mounted. The 1st photo shows the shock un-mounted. BEWARE: DON'T DO THIS!!
If you do the leafs rear shackle will shift forward and lodge itself against the under carriage of the body like this next photo -
As a result the body will end up sitting 5" higher than it was such as this...
Compared to the normal height like this...
I didn't notice this next photo until I let the car down and saw the body sitting higher than before.
Due to the shackle shifting forward the leaf will end up bowing like this when the weight of the body is on the suspension.
With the shackle moved back to its proper position as shown, everything returned to normal :yaayy:
Here's the photo from their web-site - The photo shows bolts, however they provide screws & their instructions indicate to use them as well.
Here's the instructions they provide -
If you look carefully at the first photo of the instructions you will see that it shows the shock un-mounted. The 1st photo shows the shock un-mounted. BEWARE: DON'T DO THIS!!
If you do the leafs rear shackle will shift forward and lodge itself against the under carriage of the body like this next photo -
As a result the body will end up sitting 5" higher than it was such as this...
Compared to the normal height like this...
I didn't notice this next photo until I let the car down and saw the body sitting higher than before.
Due to the shackle shifting forward the leaf will end up bowing like this when the weight of the body is on the suspension.
With the shackle moved back to its proper position as shown, everything returned to normal :yaayy:
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
Unbelievable they didn't respond. ....
Thank you for the information. I plan on doing this to one of my cars this off season
Thank you for the information. I plan on doing this to one of my cars this off season
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
If any of you believe that 4 little 1/4-3/8 holes in the dog leg of your frame is going to compromise strength you might want to read some engineering articles on the strength and properties of steel. Or stop Duke boying your car.
fury fan
Senior Member
Agreed on that, this is not a free-hanging frame rail, or body-on-frame car, all the sheetmetal welded around it adds rigidity. In addition, the swaybar bracket will be putting the 4 bolts in shear, and the bracket is bottomed out on the framerail, so the only way it will do harm is if it wants to pull away from the framerail and elongate the holes, and I don't think the reaction forces are working that way.
And the swaybar on the 88 Dippy copcar I had was held in exactly this way, with 4 sheetmetal screws/bracket. Good enough for OEM and cop usage, good enough for us.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Look at Swiss cheese Pontiacs or any steel frame rails on a flatbed with giant lightening holes. Long as the angles and flanges are not compromised no strength lost. Wow this is a old thread.
Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
Thanks for bringing this back, great info.
IMHO, the sheet metal screws would be more than adequate for the application.
The through bolt would be better if there was a tube welded through the frame to stop any deflection in the frame rail as the bolts are tightened. Bolts are made to fasten parts together and it's not only the strength of the bolt, it's the friction of the two parts together that makes it strong. The friction part of the equation here is limited by the "spring" of the frame.
The alternative would be to mount to use a shorter bolt and fish it up into place within the inside of the frame rail. Then nuts on the outside of the bracket. That's the way they used to bolt trailer hitches to these cars. It's the strongest alternative.
That isn't saying the bolts are gonna break of fall off... Far from it. It will work just fine, I just don't believe it's any better than the sheet metal screws.
I think it's really a moot point because there isn't that much strength needed to hold the bracket in place. All it does is hold it up to the frame and align it. The real forces are on the ends as the sway bar twists.
The through bolt would be better if there was a tube welded through the frame to stop any deflection in the frame rail as the bolts are tightened. Bolts are made to fasten parts together and it's not only the strength of the bolt, it's the friction of the two parts together that makes it strong. The friction part of the equation here is limited by the "spring" of the frame.
The alternative would be to mount to use a shorter bolt and fish it up into place within the inside of the frame rail. Then nuts on the outside of the bracket. That's the way they used to bolt trailer hitches to these cars. It's the strongest alternative.
That isn't saying the bolts are gonna break of fall off... Far from it. It will work just fine, I just don't believe it's any better than the sheet metal screws.
I think it's really a moot point because there isn't that much strength needed to hold the bracket in place. All it does is hold it up to the frame and align it. The real forces are on the ends as the sway bar twists.
69furyIII
Member
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Sf-66tc did you leave your front stock sway bar on and just add the rear.or did you put new front and rear sway bars on.
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
I had saved this thread knowing I wanted to install a sway bar on the convertible I call Missouri. In my recent adventures in rebuilding the suspension and steering I contacted Firm Feel to order their Bilstein shocks and had them throw in the rear sway bar since we were on the phone.
Yesterday it rained all day and my front end work was complete I figured I would install the bar. What a pain in the ***. Of course this is after several days of crawling on my knees and laying on my back replacing front end parts. I was very grateful for the helpful tips that the OP had given us as the insight was very useful. I did drill into the frame rails, despite not liking the idea. I also used all hardware they provided. I opted to unbolt some brake lines and the gas line and reinstall them after the bar installation was complete. I was certain there would have been some rubbing of said lines against the sway bar if I hadnt.
I still need to get a wheel alignment done so I do not have a opinion if it was worth it or not. I did take it around the block but that was it ...I have a multi hundred mile trip coming up in a few weeks . I will return with a road report in June.....
Yesterday it rained all day and my front end work was complete I figured I would install the bar. What a pain in the ***. Of course this is after several days of crawling on my knees and laying on my back replacing front end parts. I was very grateful for the helpful tips that the OP had given us as the insight was very useful. I did drill into the frame rails, despite not liking the idea. I also used all hardware they provided. I opted to unbolt some brake lines and the gas line and reinstall them after the bar installation was complete. I was certain there would have been some rubbing of said lines against the sway bar if I hadnt.
I still need to get a wheel alignment done so I do not have a opinion if it was worth it or not. I did take it around the block but that was it ...I have a multi hundred mile trip coming up in a few weeks . I will return with a road report in June.....
I am sure you will be happy with the results Dave. My favorite improvement with the sway bar is accelerating out or a corner, planted and flat.
Yes it was a pain in the butt, it would have been a lot easier if I had my lift at the time of the installation
Yes it was a pain in the butt, it would have been a lot easier if I had my lift at the time of the installation
fury fan
Senior Member
I **LOVE** when relevant old threads stay alive, and more relevant posts are made.
With that said, my rear bar is still sitting in the box, and has been for at least 5 years.
Maybe *this* summer...
I **LOVE** when relevant old threads stay alive, and more relevant posts are made.
With that said, my rear bar is still sitting in the box, and has been for at least 5 years.
I bought an electronic ignition system 2 years ago when I was having problems with Chinese made condensers. It has run so well since I put the original condenser back in I haven't wanted to mess it up.
I could use a rear sway bar in my Polara...I **LOVE** when relevant old threads stay alive, and more relevant posts are made.
With that said, my rear bar is still sitting in the box, and has been for at least 5 years.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
The wife and I both agreed now that as soon as we can afford it, we're going to do this for Mathilda. With a 2 yr old daughter and more, (God-willing) coming, we want the SAFEST suspension and braking we can get. This is why we bought a slab-side C-body to start with. Thank you for sharing your experience and data with us all.
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
I never did give that update. A month ago My wife and I went up to the finger lakes region of New York ( thanks for the advice Big John) it was about 900 miles including all the sight seeing . The car handled very well, I could get into the curves harder and come out flat on the other side. The Bilstein shocks did hurt the ride as she has no cushion BUT they help keep her level and reduce the float to almost nothing.
I recommend the sway bar to anyone doing a non stock / Non factory correct car.
Only to offer the proof of our drive .........
I recommend the sway bar to anyone doing a non stock / Non factory correct car.
Only to offer the proof of our drive .........
I was wondering...
fury fan
Senior Member
Lucky, you got to drive yours 900 miles in one trip.
I don't think I've logged 900 miles in the last 3-4 years, life keeps getting in the way...
I don't think I've logged 900 miles in the last 3-4 years, life keeps getting in the way...
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
We take this one all over. We did something similar last fall also in NY and Pa
SF-66TC
Well-Known Member
Sorry 69furyIII for the late reply. Been off the board for nearly a year dinking around with the caddy and other things. To answer your question - Yes, I kept the stock front sway bar and just added the rear bar. I changed over to RCD Bilstein shocks in the front, but the ride suffers. I echo what Polar71 mentioned "The Bilstein shocks did hurt the ride as she has no cushion BUT they help keep her level and reduce the float to almost nothing"
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