YES, YES, YES!!! Firm Feel Rear Sway Bar

Awesome advice. great information on this thread!

I picked up one from a location in cal, not firm feel. It doesn't look or seem right. My new rear springs are +1". I'm not sure if that factors, but installation of the anti-sway bar interferes with the shocks and exhaust if I don't use a block (home made) about 2.5 inches high to add between the frame and the bar.
I'd rather not do this, but, looking at your install, directly on the frame, welding something on that has 0 additional height between the frame and bar mount, looks most appealing.

Mike
 
Just ordered my FF rear sway bar today. It'll take a while to get here, but I'll update with photos of how the TTI tailpipes and rear bar fit on my '71 Fury. Either way, I'm going to make it work
Just finished rebuilding the rear suspension of my police pursuit special...

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Just don't do any high speed abrupt turns to avoid an accident or other obstacle in the road, or you will spin in circles before you know it. There was a reason Ma didn't equp those wagons with rear sway bars..............................when they were badly needed for normal driving given the wheelbase of that vehicle and all the weight positioned in the rear due to that dual action tailgate.
 
Just ordered my FF rear sway bar today. It'll take a while to get here, but I'll update with photos of how the TTI tailpipes and rear bar fit on my '71 Fury. Either way, I'm going to make it work
Just finished rebuilding the rear suspension of my police pursuit special...

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UPDATE. Very happy, just installed my sway bar AND tailpipes. They appear to fit just fine. Photos to come later today to show fitment and clearances.
 
Here are some photos of the tailpipes bolted in snug and rear sway bar mocked up. 1971 Plymouth Fury III 4 door sedan.

The bar ends ALMOST parallel with the leafs and end links perpendicular to their corresponding leaf brackets. Instructions say run the frame rail brackets as far up as possible so they are tight, approximately 5" from the forward bumpstop bolt, which is where these are. There's enough room to fit my chubby mitts between the tailpipe and sway bar, on BOTH sides.
Only thing i have to check now is if there's any interference between the bar and pipes when the rear axle hits the bumpstops. I don't think I'll have an issue, but will check to make sure.
Also, with the gas tank out, i was able to fish the tails into place fairly easily. NOTE this is all with the car's full weight on it's tires.
Hope this helps others out there
-Marc

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Here are some photos of the tailpipes bolted in snug and rear sway bar mocked up. 1971 Plymouth Fury III 4 door sedan.

The bar ends ALMOST parallel with the leafs and end links perpendicular to their corresponding leaf brackets. Instructions say run the frame rail brackets as far up as possible so they are tight, approximately 5" from the forward bumpstop bolt, which is where these are. There's enough room to fit my chubby mitts between the tailpipe and sway bar, on BOTH sides.
Only thing i have to check now is if there's any interference between the bar and pipes when the rear axle hits the bumpstops. I don't think I'll have an issue, but will check to make sure.
Also, with the gas tank out, i was able to fish the tails into place fairly easily. NOTE this is all with the car's full weight on it's tires.
Hope this helps others out there
-Marc

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Checked, there is plenty of clearance even if car bottoms out on rear bumpstops.
Hope this helps someone
 
Hello fellas,

glad I found this thread and that there is a sb for our C´s. Facing the problem that my 71 Sport Fury 2dr ht is rubbing the rear tire/tires when turning hard and fast. I thought about stiffening the rear by adding hijackers
but maybe just a sway bar can help me. WHat are your opinions? Just want the car to be less swaying/waving/staggering in fast and tight corners /roundabouts. Whats the best solution? Got to say it´s mostly when there are 2+ people in the car.

71 Sport Fury complete rebuild suspension front and rear, all bushings etc. but just NOT the rear leaf springs, just added new bushings there. 275/60 on 15x8 4,5BS steelies in the back
.
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Just installed Firm Feel's Rear Sway Bar on my 66TC.
I'd say it's probably the BEST upgrade I've done other than installing Front Disc Brakes.

Body Roll is virtually gone, there is no longer that "boat" or "floating" feeling, there's no more wheel hops going over speed bumps and at speeds of 80 mph on the highway the car feels solid and steady.

If you decide on upgrading to one of these I've got some useful tips to make the install easier and more secure.

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I love that boat feeling, it’s like driving my couch!
I did have the steering box though and a front sway bar.
 
Hello fellas,

...Facing the problem that my 71 Sport Fury 2dr ht is rubbing the rear tire/tires when turning hard and fast. ...

71 Sport Fury complete rebuild suspension front and rear, all bushings etc. but just NOT the rear leaf springs, just added new bushings there. 275/60 on 15x8 4,5BS steelies in the back
I have the same rear tire size, but on 4" BS, and with fenderskirts (latches!) and on a 68. I had to install offset leafspring shackles/brackets and a slightly-narrower (3/4" per side?) B-body rearend to make it all work. I don't know if that comparison is worthwhile, though, as there are many differences between our cars.

But:
Picture your hand on the back of the car, reaching into the picture you posted above. Imagine the tires nailed to the pavement. Now mentally pull the body to/fro, in/out of the picture, with the car/rims rolling on the sidewalls. That is the main cause of tire rub - and IMHO a swaybar won't fix that. If the leafsprings (which were not replaced) are able to flex side-side (which they can, a little), that can cause tire rub.

Now picture your hand coming in from behind the car, and roll the body in your mind. I don't think you'll get as much sidewall flex there. And that is what a swaybar fixes.

With all that said, body dynamics are 3-dimensional, there are bushings everywhere that allow squirm, and I'm not an expert.

Can you feel the tires rub?
Easiest thing to try - pump the tires up to teh max rating, and see if they still rub? If so, maybe a rigorous pump-up schedule is the simplest solution?
And - B-body polyurethane leafspring bushings fit out cars, so those might help ever so slightly. Make sure to get teh correct front eye dia, is most likely for 2". (1-1/2" seems to be for Hemi-type cars?)
 
With some time later on I’ll think into that ! That’s why I asked here . I don’t wanna buy expensive stuff that doesn’t solve my issue ! Im really glad about your thoughts and I am sure your right that sway bars may not fix it at all . At least it’s good to think about it again and again :) thanks a lot
 
Hello fellas,

glad I found this thread and that there is a sb for our C´s. Facing the problem that my 71 Sport Fury 2dr ht is rubbing the rear tire/tires when turning hard and fast. I thought about stiffening the rear by adding hijackers
but maybe just a sway bar can help me. WHat are your opinions? Just want the car to be less swaying/waving/staggering in fast and tight corners /roundabouts. Whats the best solution? Got to say it´s mostly when there are 2+ people in the car.

71 Sport Fury complete rebuild suspension front and rear, all bushings etc. but just NOT the rear leaf springs, just added new bushings there. 275/60 on 15x8 4,5BS steelies in the back
.
View attachment 576614
I had the issue of tire rubbing on my '71 300 after I put 275s on with 15x8 4.5 wheels. I rolled the fender lip and haven't had the issue since.
 
I had the issue of tire rubbing on my '71 300 after I put 275s on with 15x8 4.5 wheels. I rolled the fender lip and haven't had the issue since.
Thought about that too, good point to start with not spending a lot of money until I will buy the SB one day . Did you buy a real tool that does is kinda on its own or working your way through with hammer kinda stuff. Moldings attached while doing it or unbolted? I think I just need maybe 1/4 - 3/8 of an inch more clearance on the left side.....
 
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Thought about that too, good point to start with not spending a lot of money until I will buy the SB one day . Did you buy a real tool that does is kinda on its own or working your way through with hammer kinda stuff. Moldings attached while doing it or unbolted? I think I just need maybe 1/4 - 3/8 of an inch more clearance on the left side.....
I already had the sway bar on, the sidewall flex was what allowed the tire to contact, not a wandering axle. And a sway bar wouldn't keep the axle from moving laterally, it just acts as a spring reducing body roll. I used a fender roller from Summit Racing.
 
SF-66TC, love this post from 2015 that has reappeared a few time over the years. Do you still have this car and has the performance of the sway bar held up over the years?
I noticed that you also replaced the rear springs on your car and I really like the stance in your photo. Where did you source the springs and exactly what type did you order? Have they maintained their height and performance over the years? I would really appreciate any comments you have, thanks.
Hey Don, So sorry for the late reply - just 31 months late :( Don't think I can offer much information that would be helpful. From the receipt there's no description as to what was done only a total bill of $280 with $140 of extras (nothing written down). My dad probably told them what he wanted and they agreed to whatever the extra's meant. The place is called A1 Springs in Oakland, CA. The receipt is dated 3/23/98 and the car basically sat in the garage from then until it saw daylight in 2014 when I took it out (66,178). It's been in my garage being worked on since then and odometer is 66,362 so I've only put 1,184 miles on it. I don't know if springs sag if a car just sits but it looks the same now as it did then. Here's a recent photo taken on Oct 14, 2023.

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