I have a 66' Fury 383/factory 4 speed. The previous owner replaced the clutch and a lot of other parts and in doing so it looks like he kind of rigged up some of the linkage to make it work. The over-center spring is missing and they just kind of added a second spring to the clutch fork and Z bar to pull the pedal back. I'd like to get it set up correctly and I am trying to find the correct parts to do the job. I'm trying to figure out if the Fury use the same linkage as the Charger, Belvedere, etc? All of the parts I've found say B body big block, so I wasn't sure if there was anything unique to the Fury as far as the clutch, linkage, Z bar, etc. I'm having a hell of a time finding anyone that knows much about 66 Fury 4 speeds!
1966 Fury 4 speed/clutch linkage questions
- Thread starter 12BNH
- Start date
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
My poor memory cells are fading fast but I'll give it a shot since I had a 66 Fury 4 spd.
I. After removing the over center spring, I found it was absolutely necessary to put it back on (good luck, lol). You'll need parts manuals from both bodies to see if they are the same or not.
2. The pedal to Z-bar rod is unique.
3. The Z bars is unique to both the 3 spd and the 4 spd. You can modify a B body z bar but you'll need to reach out to somebody with the dimensions.
4. Everything from the Z bar to the clutch fork is interchangeable with b bodies.
You'll need a 66 parts manual for an illustrated explosion of the assembly from pedal to clutch fork.
I had one but I'm having trouble locating it.
c bodies 65 through 72 clutch peddle parts build
WANTED - Z bar bracket
z bar - 68 fury III - alternatives, pictures, dimensions
EDIT: Found it.
I. After removing the over center spring, I found it was absolutely necessary to put it back on (good luck, lol). You'll need parts manuals from both bodies to see if they are the same or not.
2. The pedal to Z-bar rod is unique.
3. The Z bars is unique to both the 3 spd and the 4 spd. You can modify a B body z bar but you'll need to reach out to somebody with the dimensions.
4. Everything from the Z bar to the clutch fork is interchangeable with b bodies.
You'll need a 66 parts manual for an illustrated explosion of the assembly from pedal to clutch fork.
I had one but I'm having trouble locating it.
c bodies 65 through 72 clutch peddle parts build
WANTED - Z bar bracket
z bar - 68 fury III - alternatives, pictures, dimensions
EDIT: Found it.
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I would talk to Brewer's - Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists
They have a listing for the B body over centre spring here: Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists
The "good luck" comment above is very important to note - the spring on the clutch pedal assembly can't be removed or installed with the pedal assembly bolted into the car. The only way to remove the spring is to unbolt the whole assembly and allow the clutch pedal to travel beyond where it would if the floor was there... then the whole thing relaxes and the spring literally falls off. That is likely how it got lost - spring was broken or cut trying to remove it while in the car - and then the pedal assembly was removed and reinstalled without the spring. If it was taken out as a complete unit, then another issue arises - the pedal assembly needs to be wired up to prevent the pedal from slamming down if it gets moved towards swinging down and going over center... (it can't slam down when the pedal assembly is installed because it hits the floor) so sitting on the bench it's a ticking bomb if it's not wired to prevent the pedal from swinging...
Your car should have the same spring as a B body, but I'm not 100% sure... the reason for that is there is an 11" clutch listed for C body with a different part number for the spring, but the standard 4 speed and 3 speed clutch plate is 10" and shares the same spring number with B body cars. I believe the part number 2461 523. 11" C body clutch gets a 2461 723 spring. It's probably dimentionally the same, just a stiffer spring to allow for the bigger clutch plate needing more clamping force? Not sure...
Brewer's are pretty knowledgeable. Ask them.
They have a listing for the B body over centre spring here: Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists
The "good luck" comment above is very important to note - the spring on the clutch pedal assembly can't be removed or installed with the pedal assembly bolted into the car. The only way to remove the spring is to unbolt the whole assembly and allow the clutch pedal to travel beyond where it would if the floor was there... then the whole thing relaxes and the spring literally falls off. That is likely how it got lost - spring was broken or cut trying to remove it while in the car - and then the pedal assembly was removed and reinstalled without the spring. If it was taken out as a complete unit, then another issue arises - the pedal assembly needs to be wired up to prevent the pedal from slamming down if it gets moved towards swinging down and going over center... (it can't slam down when the pedal assembly is installed because it hits the floor) so sitting on the bench it's a ticking bomb if it's not wired to prevent the pedal from swinging...
Your car should have the same spring as a B body, but I'm not 100% sure... the reason for that is there is an 11" clutch listed for C body with a different part number for the spring, but the standard 4 speed and 3 speed clutch plate is 10" and shares the same spring number with B body cars. I believe the part number 2461 523. 11" C body clutch gets a 2461 723 spring. It's probably dimentionally the same, just a stiffer spring to allow for the bigger clutch plate needing more clamping force? Not sure...
Brewer's are pretty knowledgeable. Ask them.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Ross, I was able to R&R the spring while in the car.
And I would not do it again.
And yes, I got smashed in the puss by the pedal a couple of times trying to reinstall it. I thought Leon Spinks had punched me.
RE: The 10 inch spring. I used this spring on the 4 spd and the whole assembly still worked smooth as silk.
Thanks guys I appreciate the info. I'm guessing it's like you mentioned above, they put everything back in and either broke the spring or couldn't get it back on. Looks like I'm in for a project. I'll definitely reach out to Brewer's about the parts, I do know that the clutch return spring is the same as B body but wasn't 100% sure about the over center spring. I don't have much experience dealing with 4 speed set ups so I'm learning as I go.
ETA: Anybody know of a shop in New England that knows MOPAR stuff like this?
ETA: Anybody know of a shop in New England that knows MOPAR stuff like this?
rd92west
plan C
B body Z bar is not compatible with C body.
You remove the bear trap spring when you convert to a diaphragm style pressure plate. You add a light spring under the dash to hold the pedal up as well as the spring to hold the clutch fork forward so the release bearing dont turn all the time. Yea it's not original.
The big bad over center spring is required for a Borg and beck style pressure plate
I tried to remove the feisty spring recently, I had visions of flesh wounds and ended up removing pedal assembly.
You remove the bear trap spring when you convert to a diaphragm style pressure plate. You add a light spring under the dash to hold the pedal up as well as the spring to hold the clutch fork forward so the release bearing dont turn all the time. Yea it's not original.
The big bad over center spring is required for a Borg and beck style pressure plate
I tried to remove the feisty spring recently, I had visions of flesh wounds and ended up removing pedal assembly.
PH27L7
Well-Known Member
The key to removing the over center spring while installed is to insert washers or coins between the coils when the spring is at max length & then release. That spring would would be hard to source being used exclusively on C's. Easiest solution as mentioned is to use a diaphragm style clutch where it's not needed. I have spare NOS Z-bar 2781873 but it would take a few bucks for me to part with it.
Oooh... washers between the coils - what a great idea! Thanks!
rd92west
plan C
Excellent idea with the washers.
I have several C body springs. Free if you pay the shipping cost.
If it isn't too much trouble, could you post a pic of the Z bar?
rd92west
plan C
This is 66 c body torque tube.
It has had one end of the tube shortened to work with a aftermarket bellhousing. Finger points to short end.
In previous post I said B and C are not compatible.
I included a picture of the 2. B tube is same length as the shortened C tube and the arms are longer and in a different place.
Show us a picture of yours
It has had one end of the tube shortened to work with a aftermarket bellhousing. Finger points to short end.
In previous post I said B and C are not compatible.
I included a picture of the 2. B tube is same length as the shortened C tube and the arms are longer and in a different place.
Show us a picture of yours
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Don't have a pic but mine was longer
rd92west
plan C
I figure maybe 3/4 inch was cut off.
I could measure for exact original length. But this gives you a idea how long the arms are and how they are clocked
I could measure for exact original length. But this gives you a idea how long the arms are and how they are clocked
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
You missed the joke...
rd92west
plan C
Would it reach around a corner????
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Thank you for the pics. My torque bar has a little tab they welded to it that they attached a spring to so it would bring the pedal back, I guess instead of putting the over center spring in properly...this is going to be more of a project than I thought.
rd92west
plan C
From 66 dodge fsm
Spring goes from clutch release fork and hooks on the bellhousing
I
Spring goes from clutch release fork and hooks on the bellhousing
I
rd92west
plan C
Other than the torque tube all parts are available from brewers.
Personally I prefer the diaphragm style pressure plate. In conjunction with a good McLeod clutch/pressure plate. Dam few would know it's not original. Plus it can easily be converted back to.
Personally I prefer the diaphragm style pressure plate. In conjunction with a good McLeod clutch/pressure plate. Dam few would know it's not original. Plus it can easily be converted back to.
I don't know whether the issue extends to or is centered around the fact that the return spring on the transmission is at fault.
From the way I see it, that linkage has to work in conjunction with the spring at the transmission AND with the way more powerful overcenter spring that's on the clutch pedal assembly inside the car.
If that overcentre spring isn't there then there's no way even a couple more springs at the transmission clutch fork are going to do the job.
Edit - unless, as noted below, there is a McLeod type pressure plate clutch installed...
From the way I see it, that linkage has to work in conjunction with the spring at the transmission AND with the way more powerful overcenter spring that's on the clutch pedal assembly inside the car.
If that overcentre spring isn't there then there's no way even a couple more springs at the transmission clutch fork are going to do the job.
Edit - unless, as noted below, there is a McLeod type pressure plate clutch installed...
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