1969 Imperial progress thread

I actually don't know which is which. I've only used mine a few times and its been a long time since the last time. Mike is probably right on though.
 
Top one is channel changer, bottom is dimmer.

Edit: Just looked at mine and I'm wrong. The top is the dimmer.
 
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Vodka are you talking about taking the entire dash frame out? Because if you are, there are four screws underneath the windshield rubber seal right at the front edge of the dash frame. You have to lift the seal to get to them and even then you need a 3/8s short socket with a universal on it to be able to access them because of the windshield glass being in the way.
 
Oh wait i was just looking at your pictures, Im thinking of a different model of car, the four screws in question are to be found at the outer edges of the defogging vents blowing up onto the inside of the windshield.
 
I tried to pull the dash board today, but I can't find the last screws... Somewhere behind the speedoleter must be more screws. Do I have to remove all the instruments or can I pull the whole dash with them?

Did you see the two threaded rods, one on each side of the steering column, that go straight up .... You need to remove them. It may be neccessary to double nut them to remove them.


The panel can be removed and reinstalled with all guages in place.
 
Vodka are you talking about taking the entire dash frame out? Because if you are, there are four screws underneath the windshield rubber seal right at the front edge of the dash frame. You have to lift the seal to get to them and even then you need a 3/8s short socket with a universal on it to be able to access them because of the windshield glass being in the way.

Oh wait i was just looking at your pictures, Im thinking of a different model of car, the four screws in question are to be found at the outer edges of the defogging vents blowing up onto the inside of the windshield.

Yes, I got them out but it was a really pain in the ***.... I'm afraid of putting them back in someday... Oo



Did you see the two threaded rods, one on each side of the steering column, that go straight up .... You need to remove them. It may be neccessary to double nut them to remove them.


The panel can be removed and reinstalled with all guages in place.

Why are you awake? It's middle of the night?! ;)


Ok, I will pull the steering column and remove the threaded rods you mentioned tonight and hope I can remove the dash then.
 
You are really diving into this project head-first! As they say - everything is larger in a "C"-body - and that's a monster dash. Looks like you have a bit of work with the radio, instrument cluster and clock, judging from appearances.
 
You are really diving into this project head-first! As they say - everything is larger in a "C"-body - and that's a monster dash. Looks like you have a bit of work with the radio, instrument cluster and clock, judging from appearances.

There is indeed some work with all the instruments, radio, clock etc. The clock is toast... But except from this, it's not too bad i guess. I will see.. ;)
 
There is indeed some work with all the instruments, radio, clock etc. The clock is toast... But except from this, it's not too bad i guess. I will see.. ;)
I started to take the dash in my 69 300 apart piece by piece with the thought of replacing the guage facia. NOT a good plan.
The dash will come out as an assembly including the fuse block & harness from the bulkhead conector. The wires for the blower switch will need to be disconnected from the switch, (the black one may have to be cut and respliced).

Once out its a piece of cake to work on the bench. Your gonna need ome help though. It seems to get bigger once you start removing it. Also helps to remove the steering coumn completely. might as well restore it too.


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You just gave me an ulcer...
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Man, that took balls.
How many pieces were leftover when it was all put back?

And why is the inside door skin white?
 
You just gave me an ulcer...


Man, that took balls.
How many pieces were leftover when it was all put back?

And why is the inside door skin white?


The procedure development was the PITA part. Once it was reassembled on the bench it went back in pretty smooth. (thats how I figured out the two long column support studs needed to come out before the dash is removed and reinstalled after the dash was reinstalled).
I had a complete extra IP cluster so there were several extra parts. As it is ...... there are no sqeeks or rattles in the dash now.

The white on the door frame is a filler so the body color dosen't show when the door is closed.


DSC00810 (Large).JPG
 
The procedure development was the PITA part. Once it was reassembled on the bench it went back in pretty smooth. (thats how I figured out the two long column support studs needed to come out before the dash is removed and reinstalled after the dash was reinstalled).
I had a complete extra IP cluster so there were several extra parts. As it is ...... there are no sqeeks or rattles in the dash now.

The white on the door frame is a filler so the body color dosen't show when the door is closed.

These are great reference pics for me as well, thanks!

My 70 black hard top with white interior has the same white doors, but my 70 blue vert with the black interior has blue doors. So this is a white interior only thing?
 
And why is the inside door skin white?
White interior had the inner door painted white. I had the same on my 69.
The white on the door frame is a filler so the body color dosen't show when the door is closed.

So this is a white interior only thing?

My doorframe is painted black, so it's not a white interior only option.
It's listed on my BS as well: UDF-X9 - Black upper door frame

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I started to take the dash in my 69 300 apart piece by piece with the thought of replacing the guage facia. NOT a good plan.
The dash will come out as an assembly including the fuse block & harness from the bulkhead conector. The wires for the blower switch will need to be disconnected from the switch, (the black one may have to be cut and respliced).

Once out its a piece of cake to work on the bench. Your gonna need ome help though. It seems to get bigger once you start removing it. Also helps to remove the steering coumn completely. might as well restore it too.

That's some good informations, thanks. I will definitely take out the steering column. Do I have to remove bolts in the engine bay or are they all inside?

I tried to remove the steering wheel today but the screws on the back of the center cushion are too long so I can't reach the nut with my ratchet...
 
That's some good informations, thanks. I will definitely take out the steering column. Do I have to remove bolts in the engine bay or are they all inside?

I tried to remove the steering wheel today but the screws on the back of the center cushion are too long so I can't reach the nut with my ratchet...

The only thing under the hood is the coupler to the steering gear.

Alan
 
Ya, I thought I may be spared from it. But no I'm not...

But one nice thing:

I have tested the rust removal liquid I bought and it's working great!

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The fendertag have to go back in for round two but looks pretty good too.
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