@ayilar, The hood pad would have come with undercoating, code J55. It was optional on 300. This one does not have it.
Looks like my C’s, all of which have undercoating (same exact appearance as above) and hood pad.
@ayilar, The hood pad would have come with undercoating, code J55. It was optional on 300. This one does not have it.
The cloth and vinyl bucket seats in the 1970 300s was a special order option and came with that specific headrest that differed from the more oval vinyl ones on the regular 300s with vinyl bucket seats.Must of been a VIP with the Motorola car phone (not cellphone) back in the day.
The cars been dolled up, has headrest covers and same on drivers door arm rest. Why would the driver door armrest need covering in 40k miles you have to ask yourself. Under hood may be painted as the latch appears to be same paint as body color. Is that not right?
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Interesting. Perhaps the red body panel came from another car. Who knows. Just goes to show why to not buy a classics sight unseen.FT6 surely isn't red, it is deep bronze metallic if the fender tag is original to the car. The front end also does look a bit warped and the driver side fender to door gap is excessive too. So caution might be warranted..........................
I thought it must have had a respray… the period metallic colors did not last long under the sun.
The only thing that makes me pause a little is that the driver door end with the VIN and date decal on it doesn't look molested or repainted and matches the outside color pretty well. That color also doesn't really look all that close to the FT6 sample in the 1970 dealer color and trim selector, either. Maybe that decal was reproduced as I have heard someone is doing that these days...........................I thought it must have had a respray… the period metallic colors did not last long under the sun.
Wrong year, wrong wheels, wrong color. You're losing it, @ayilar!Thank you for the link. Turns out that the 300 I remembered was actually a 1969 with "similar" paint and wheels but a white roof that sold at Mecum in Chattanooga two months ago a few months ago and was discussed here....
IIRC I've seen a number of cracked armrests on lower-mileage cars, esp before reproductions became available. Here's a 40k armrest, and from near-20 years ago.Why would the driver door armrest need covering in 40k miles you have to ask yourself.
Here's a pic from the listing. I agree, the driverside fender looks a little high, look at the rubber flap that goes between bumper and fender, compare to teh passenger side. Looks like the front tip of the fender is porpoised down at the last ~6".I love the color combo on this car. Very fitting! But my issue is I believe that car had some front end collision repairs. One, the drivers fender fits a little funny, especially down low. That’s a characteristic of the front end being pushed up at the core support. The front valance is pretty funky. The fender tag area appears to have been brush painted. And the whole left front of the car is higher than the right. Thoughts?
Excellent eye! I noticed the new bolt. Chalk that one up to u joint replacement, someone lost one of the originals.Wrong year, wrong wheels, wrong color. You're losing it, @ayilar!
Joking aside, good eye on the VT bubbles - you showed that like I do, but with nicer arrows.
But due to the lack of puckering in the laminated sheetmetal edges behind this trim, I'd say if there's any rust under the VT it's pretty minor.
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But here are some oddities on the undercarriage. First time in my life I recall seeing a hoseclamp here, and there's also an oddball bolt. (???)
But most curious is the rolled-edge floorpan reinforcements that are really mashed, along with some undercoating that's strangely missing in the same area.
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It does look quite nice, though, and any flaws are likely easy to ignore by the next owner.
But it does seem like Fusey prices are getting a bit out of hand, we are accepting prices that only 2-4 years ago we would've scoffed at.
IIRC I've seen a number of cracked armrests on lower-mileage cars, esp before reproductions became available. Here's a 40k armrest, and from near-20 years ago.
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Here's a pic from the listing. I agree, the driverside fender looks a little high, look at the rubber flap that goes between bumper and fender, compare to teh passenger side. Looks like the front tip of the fender is porpoised down at the last ~6".
And, yes the radiator support looks like it's had some very particular paint touchup - it looks too fresh around there.
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But here's the pic that I noticed immediately, and kept gnawing at me. I said nothing because I thought I was being too suspicious.
That reflection should be near-straight - not dipping downward as if that fender has an outward lip on it.
And the bottom corner looks funny, like it's out too far compared to behind the wheel.
One might say it's all in camera angle, but I'd bet my money it's real. Esp because you can see it in the bumper portrait above and the other side seems different, the way I would expect.
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I retract my prior statement about 'flaws that can be ignored' - this car needs eyeballed before spending ~$20k on it to see what this is about.
Couldn't have said it better myself.But it does seem like Fusey prices are getting a bit out of hand, we are accepting prices that only 2-4 years ago we would've scoffed at.
Did the car roll of the assembly line with any clamps on the rubber balloon seal? I don't think so... so why would anyone need a clamp?Funny about the hose clamp on the torsion bar boot. Last couple old Mopars I've had came with this "repair." I remember doing similar personally in 80's on a driveway no-budget big block Dart conversion. Was an upgrade over zip ties.
If you're referring to this plate, I don't recall if it should be black or body color.No Yay or Nay on the painted hood latch, what else...
No I'm talking about the latch on the hood not the release on the core support.If you're referring to this plate, I don't recall if it should be black or body color.
But regardless, it's fresh, teh spring and lever attest to that.
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