1975 Imperial build thread

Thank you! That's probably helped me solve my problem. I double-checked all the parts for the Idler, turns out the bolt that comes in the box isn't large enough to fill the space in the sleeve completely, allowing it to rotate due to the free space. Now I just have to find a slightly wider bolt
Moog customer support was really useful too, initially I had thought it was an internal failure, but after digging up the blueprints, they informed me that it shouldn't really be possible, especially on a part that new
 
So the bolt wasn't the problem, it was an internal failure on the brand-new part. I'm no longer trusting Moog or it's rebrands, I've decided to go with P-S-T, their arm should be at my doorstep in 7-10 days. I've only ever heard good things about them so hopefully it'll work
 
moog sucks. they title their parts "problem solvers". i call them problem makers.
To repeat the quality that we had even 40+ years ago the stuff would cost 3X as much, even factoring in using today's dollar.
Which is a disgrace because it's all built by cheap slave labor or even cheaper robotics instead of aspiring middle class seekers.
Look at YouTube shorts and look at all the crap made in India and the zero Q/A Q/C.

This planet has too many people.
Bill Gates plan is this planet's only hope. And for better ball joints.
 
It's time for another update, this one being a big one.
Firstly, I got the freeze plugs in, I ended up having to take the odd one to a machine shop and got it matched up with a metric one. After that was done, I got the exhaust manifolds on and booked it in for safety. Two nights before it was scheduled, I started hearing a rattling sound coming from inside the manifold, the emissions valve thing had broke, so off the manifold came. I got the shaft and butterfly valve out, then tapped the holes and blocked them off with some bolts. The manifolds went on again, this time with a massive leak. Turns out the manifold-downpipes gaskets Napa sells don't fit, so I used up my remaining gasket maker on that.

It went in for safety, and failed. But the only place to go from failure, is to win.

The safety man said that I needed a new idler arm (hence the previous postings), a new upper ball joint, a new rear seatbelt, and a small hole patched in the rear wheel well. That all sounded pretty straight forward, oh boy was I wrong. I got a seatbelt for a '75 Impala from "Retrobelt", and it fit perfectly. The hole in the wheel well was a very easy fix.
The idler arm (once I got a good one) was also pretty decent, but the journey to get it wasn't. I had originally ordered my Moog one from Autozone, which doesn't ship to Canada, so a ~6 hour drive to the States happened. When I found out that one was bad, I looked on Autozones's website once again and found a different looking one, one from "Rare Parts Manufacturing", ordered that in, and drove to the States again only to find out that it's the exact same part. So after some fiddling with my existing idler arm, I found out that I had to order another, so I went to P-S-T's website, ordered one, and somehow, unbeknownst to me, the order got denied. I found that out on a Friday evening so had to wait until Monday to call to order over the phone. Phoning to order was a breeze too, super easy, and it got delivered far ahead of schedule, it also went on without any difficulties.
The ball joint was a whole different story. I already had a new ball joint lying around, but I didn't have the socket to remove it, so I made my own, and it worked like a champ. While getting the old ball joint out, I stripped the threads on the control arm, so I had to source a new one of those. Turns out, "National Moparts" had one and they're not too far from where I live. So after a trip there, I walked away with a used control arm and some new bushings. The control arm still had a bushing and a half in it as well as its old ball joint. That quickly became one of my least favourite jobs to do on the car. Drilling out the old bushings wasn't very much fun, and taking the ball joint out was even less fun. I soaked it in penetrant for two days, heated and shock-cooled it at least 6 times, sprayed it with more penetrant, and the breaker bar wouldn't get it to budge. I used probably a total of 6' of cheater bars and set it up in the bench vise so I would do basically a squat to loosen it. I can squat a decent amount and that thing still didn't move. I ended up beating it really hard with a hammer for 10 minutes straight, then I could finally loosen it. The new one went in without really any drama.
With that all done I booked it in again and just had to wait, until the morning it was supposed to get picked up of course. That was the same day I headed back off to college so I was on a time crunch. The horn decided to stop working, it blew the fuse. I scrambled around looking for my spare fuses for the last 5 minutes I had until I had to leave, in the final minute I found it and got it replaced. Right down to the wire.
The big news came this morning, on my way to class, the mechanic's shop called to tell me that it passed. I'm headed back home on the 20th for my first real drive in i. It's going to be a long wait. I also got them to do an alignment and they lowered the front end back to factory spec, which is something I've been wanting to do since I bought the car
 
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I got my parents to send me a picture of it how it currently sits. Even just from the pictures, I'm very happy with it.
I also removed the door-ding strips, another thing I've been wanting to do since I got it
 
I didn't have the socket to remove it, so I made my own, and it worked like a champ.
that has to one of the best lines that i've read on FCBO. and so nonchalant. again, you would have made a great mechanic. a cutting torch and a welding machine and you're the master of the metal. it's the most basic things and you're the master of your own fate. people just don't get that. no boundaries, no limits.
 
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Thank you, Rags!
I can't say that it's pretty, but I was sure able to stick these pieces of metal together. I decided to sacrifice my 1" socket for this so I'm thankful that it worked out. Welding's one of those skills that anyone who does anything with their hands should learn, it's really nice to just be able to make anything from pieces of scrap. A welder paired with a grinder have saved me a bunch trouble
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Well, it's finally that day! After a year and a half of ownership, the Imperial is now completely road legal!!! My parents just picked up the new plates today.

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Great work! Not enough of these cars get saved. Ntl Moparts should be able to hook you up with a Hood ornament and an Imperial script for the rear.
 
The first drive was a success! I drove it pretty much all day yesterday and it handled it like a champ. I even came across another Imperial.
It wasn't perfect though, there were are issues. The most notable being that the engine seems to be slightly misfiring under any sort of load. The shop who safetied it said that a new cap and rotor should fix that, so I've got those in the mail, along with a new ignition coil, which all should be arriving today.
The exhaust was also clunking against some part of the body, so I'll have to look into that

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All I can say is…. Amazing.

I thought I was persistent. You sir are the new divination of the word.

Congrats on passing the inspection !

Keep up the good work and keep us posted.
 
Thank you all for your likes and kind words!

I've been driving the Imperial around for the past two weeks and it's honestly surprised me, no major problems have popped up and it's been handling life as a daily driver with ease. Before I made my 3-hour road trip to college, I replaced the coil, cap, and rotor, now it runs very smooth. I also wasn't happy about the electrical performance of the car, so I replaced the voltage regulator. It made a noticeable difference, but it still has a noticeably weak charging system, so I'll likely replace the alternator in the nearish future. The biggest update so far is the interior, I ordered an ACC carpet from RockAuto, which just got installed yesterday. It's of the black cutpile variant, with mass backing, and it looks killer. As it's late right now, I'm unable to get a picture of it, but I should be able to tomorrow. A few days ago I managed to put some sound deadening up on the roof/ceiling, and have gotten partway through making my own headliner. My old headliner got destroyed by mice but I was able to find a nice brown houndstoothish material to replace it with, which although not original, I think will look amazing in the car and retain that upper-class '70s style. I'll hopefully be able to finish reassembling the interior tomorrow morning before heading to the local Cars&Coffee.

As seems to be tradition with me, here's the current list of problems that are at the top of the chopping block to fix. Feel free to chime in with any advice!
The biggest pain for me is that the fuel gauge doesn't work, it's stuck at 1/8 of a tank. I'm probably going to order a new sending unit to fix that, once I feel motivated enough to drop the tank that is. As for now, I'm filling the tank around every 100 kilometres. On the trip to college I was cruising at 110km/h and getting 16L/100km, which isn't amazing, but it's pretty good for what the car is. (68mph, 15MPG for the Americans reading).
Another intermittent problem that just started happening today is that the alternator sometimes doesn't activate. The amperage gauge shows a consistent discharge until I put the car in park/neutral and rev the engine up pretty high, then the alternator seems to 'engage' and the gauge shows it charging.
Aside from that, all seem to be functioning to my liking.

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I managed to get the interior all in, except for the sunroof-headliner panel, as I'm still working on the sunroof. The Imperial's still killing it as a daily, no serious problems to report as of yet. The alternator problem seems to have gone away (it might just have been a fluke that happened a few times) and the fuel gauge has started to work occasionally.

The sunroof, however, is causing me a great deal of grief, and I'd be very appreciative of anyone who could shed some light on my problem. Currently, the power gear skips and it needs manual assistance to go through its range of motion. Even with assistance though, it doesn't fully retract into the roof. all parts are in original condition, except for the rear passenger "riser", which has broken, effectively isolating that side of the track from the sunroof panel. All parts have been removed, cleaned, greased, and reinstalled. I'm guessing that the broken "riser" is what's causing my problems, I would replace it, but I can't find a source for a new one, I seem to have to buy a whole cable.
That opens a whole new can of worms, there's nobody selling Formal C-Body cables. I'm aware that ASC made sunroofs for nearly every manufacturer back in the day, but I also know that the sunroofs could be different sizes. It's hard enough to track down ASC cables, but knowing if the length is correct is a whole other ordeal. And of course, I'd still much prefer to just replace the "riser"
 
I need some help with mini-starters.

The original starter doesn't crank fast enough to start the car in colder weather, so I've decided to upgrade. I bought a new mini-starter from RockAuto, but it didn't fit and ended up breaking while I was torquing t down.

The Problems:
-The top mounting hole on the starter I got waste big for the bolt, meaning the starter had some amount of rotation
-The starter never seemed to sit flush in the hole
-The factory 'shim' fell off and I can't figure out how to put it back on, it hits the block and doesn't allow both holes to align
-The starter would extend and spin, but would not engage with the flywheel

Does anybody have experience with these things?
Attached is the starter I used17466N_F1.jpg
 
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