1975 Imperial build thread

[1975.Imperial]

I am having the same issue with my mini starter. What was your solution? I'm going to the original rebuilt because I know it fits.

I got another mini-starter and put it in, it looked exactly the same as the first mini-starter, but this one just seemed to fit (the first would've also likely fit if I did it properly). I did take a little more care in installing it though, it does take some time to get it to fit right. I found that there was clearance for the "shim" to fit, it was just a pain to align properly. I recall having to get rather inventive with my socket extensions to get to the bolt and nut too.

Additionally, remove the terminal adapter that comes on the new starters, it interferes with the block. You'll need to tighten down the wires before installing the starter, once the starter's installed there's very limited/no clearance to fit a wrench or socket in there.

 

[1975.Imperial]

It's the dead of winter up here in Ontario and I'm suffering from the symptoms of classic car withdrawal, as such, I've started planning out projects for the Imperial this year.

One of the first projects I've been considering is getting the auto-dimming headlights to work. As of right now the system seems completely inoperative, I've fiddled around with the "eye" on the dashboard and the 'auto' on the headlight switch, they seem to do nothing. Has anybody here taken a dive into the system, if so, are there any recommendations you'd mind sharing with me?

I'm also trying to reduce wind noise from around the windows. After my vent-window conversion, it was made obvious that I didn't have the required weather stripping/cat whiskers for the conversion, and the rest of the weather stripping is at the point where it needs to be replaced. Could anyone direct me to a source for these? I'm aware there's some for where the windows meet the roofline, but I haven't heard of any reproduction cat whiskers, or new rubber for the section in between the front and rear windows.

I'm planning on covering the entirety of the floor in Eastwood's X-Mat to help reduce the sound from my new exhaust system. While I'm at it, I'll likely take apart the dash once again for access to the firewall, where I'll also be able to clean up some of my previous sloppy work.

In terms of performance, I'm still on the edge about getting a new Edelbrock carb and intake. I plan on replacing the nylon timing gear with an Edelbrock double-roller setup, so I might tack a couple extra parts onto that Edelbrock order. I'm currently thinking of going with the Performer RPM intake, either a 650 or 800 AVS2 carb, and a lower profile air cleaner (maybe an open element).

 

[1975.Imperial]

I've just realized that I never posted a sound clip of my new exhaust to this thread. Here it is, it came out sounding a bit different than what I expected, but I'm happy with it. It added a bunch of drone in the cabin, but I'm hoping that gets remedied with the addition of sound deadening, if necessary I may add a resonator. Performance increased dramatically, the previous 2-1/8" single exit exhaust was severely choking the engine, there's no signs of exhaust restriction present with the new setup. There's no noticeable drop in low end torque, I'd say there's an increase in power at all RPMs.

The details of the setup are: Rear exit dual 3" Mandrel bent H-pipe with Flowmaster 50 Series Delta Flow mufflers.

 

[CBODY67]

As for the intake manifold, there is an episode on the YT channel "318 will run" that clearly shows how to convert the factory spreadbore intake into a "normal 4bbl" intake with just a hand-held chop saw and some other hand tools. Not sure what kind of power you are looking for (or why), but anything "RPM" seems a bit out of whack for such a heavy car, where low-end and off-idle torque is needed. In most tests, the factory intakes are not that far off of what the Edelbrock's cost, it seems. I can sure take a $400.00 savings for about 1/2 hour or work! I know, leaning across the fenders with that heavy intake is something else, too, but I'd lean more toward the normal Performer and leave the factory insulator bag on the shelf. Instant "Air Gap"! BTAIM

Carb size, unless you're feeding a 514cid stroker, I'd lean more toward the 650 AVS2, for the supposed-to-be better lower rpm response it should have. It takes torque to move the car initially, not horsepower that only happens above 5000rpm. If you had a ZF 8-spd with the 4.50+ low gear ratio, so the engine could get spooled-up quickly, then the 800 might be more useable, to me. But then you'd need to adapt some of the earlier model year Imperial factory traction bars!

I concur on the double-roller timing set, but I'd lean more toward a real Cloyes product, myself. That way you know where it came from, rather than a set which EB co-opted and got their name put on it. FWIW

Just some thoughts. Your car, your money, your dreams.
Watch for the upcoming sales!
CBODY67

 

[1975.Imperial]

As for the intake manifold, there is an episode on the YT channel "318 will run" that clearly shows how to convert the factory spreadbore intake into a "normal 4bbl" intake with just a hand-held chop saw and some other hand tools. Not sure what kind of power you are looking for (or why), but anything "RPM" seems a bit out of whack for such a heavy car, where low-end and off-idle torque is needed. In most tests, the factory intakes are not that far off of what the Edelbrock's cost, it seems. I can sure take a $400.00 savings for about 1/2 hour or work! I know, leaning across the fenders with that heavy intake is something else, too, but I'd lean more toward the normal Performer and leave the factory insulator bag on the shelf. Instant "Air Gap"! BTAIM

Carb size, unless you're feeding a 514cid stroker, I'd lean more toward the 650 AVS2, for the supposed-to-be better lower rpm response it should have. It takes torque to move the car initially, not horsepower that only happens above 5000rpm. If you had a ZF 8-spd with the 4.50+ low gear ratio, so the engine could get spooled-up quickly, then the 800 might be more useable, to me. But then you'd need to adapt some of the earlier model year Imperial factory traction bars!

I concur on the double-roller timing set, but I'd lean more toward a real Cloyes product, myself. That way you know where it came from, rather than a set which EB co-opted and got their name put on it. FWIW

Just some thoughts. Your car, your money, your dreams.
Watch for the upcoming sales!
CBODY67

Thank you for the input. I watched that video (and a few others on his channel), it's interesting stuff.
As far as the intake manifold selection goes, I've done some research and it seems like the regular Performer intake is basically just a stock replacement that performs WORSE than the stock one. From what I've heard, the PerformerRPM still retains low-end torque, while improving top-end power, to me that seems like a win-win. I'm not aiming for this car to be a race car, but there's no reason it needs to be so slow.

I've decided to go for the 650 AVS2. Maybe sometime in the future I'll put a big stroker kit in, but you're right, 650 seems right for the street. I found a good source for one, but I'll have to wait until I'm in that area to get it. As for the hypothetical of a transmission and rear end gear swap, I've been looking at ways to mate a 46RH to a big block (that overdrive gear and lockup convertor would be very nice to have). Unfortunately that would take another couple thousand out of me, so that idea's going to have to wait

I'll look into Cloyes. I didn't have any doubts about an Edelbrock one, surely it would be better than the factory nylon-tooth set, but a better product certainly doesn't hurt.

As you can probably tell, I've got big dreams for this car, but maybe not the money to keep up.

 

[CBODY67]

As to intake manifolds, I've always considered the Performer intake to be a modernized version of the old CH4B Edelbrock intake of the late 1960s. It was that intake, plus the similar 383 DP4B version, that Chrysler put a factory part number on so it could be used in the stock classes at NHRA races. I don't know that I've seen a dyno test comparison of the Performer on a normal 440, vs a Performer RPM. Where did you find yours? As always, I'd be more concerned with torque output at less than 3000rpm rather than top end power, considering the car's weight.

What happens above 3000rpm is important too, but you have to get their quickly FIRST before the above 3000rpm power can happen. FWIW

Dreams and funding can be at odds, many times, so priorities and adjustments to the dreams can be the result.

Another consideration is to not set "the bar" impossibly high that getting there is not possible. Be reasonable and realistic as to what can be done, which should be very good, too, so disappointment is not overwhelming when the result happens. Remembering, too, that "for one thing to happen well", it can generate a need for other things to happen, too, so it is as well as it can be.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67