65 Fury 318 Poly 4 bbl swap

[Jay Gibbs]

Just to make sure I have everything hooked up properly, here is what I have:

Lead from distributor points is connected to coil ( - ) terminal

Lead from ignition switch wire? (Blue wire) in main harness is attached to coil ( + ) terminal

Condenser at base of coil (noise suppressor?) wire is attached to coil ( + ) terminal and base is screwed to block bolt holding coil in place.

All these wires plus one for oil press sender, coolant temp sender and two leads to alternator are the only ones in the engine harness, and the only ones I removed. I tagged all the wires when taking them off and wonder if I mistagged one?...

Does this all seem correct?

J.G.

 

[Jay Gibbs]

Just to make sure I have everything hooked up properly, here is what I have:

Lead from distributor points is connected to coil ( - ) terminal

Lead from ignition switch wire? (Blue wire) in main harness is attached to coil ( + ) terminal

Condenser at base of coil (noise suppressor?) wire is attached to coil ( + ) terminal and base is screwed to block bolt holding coil in place.

All these wires plus one for oil press sender, coolant temp sender and two leads to alternator are the only ones in the engine harness, and the only ones I removed. I tagged all the wires when taking them off and wonder if I mistagged one?...

Does this all seem correct?

J.G.

 

[Davea Lux]

You have it wired correctly.

Dave

 

[Jay Gibbs]

Prefacing all of this with the fact that I am NOT an electrical guy AT ALL...

Here's what I found so far...I found a fusible link...two different size fusible links attached to the screw post on the starter relay...the thinner fusible link going to a small 3 prong relay a few inches away and the thicker fusible link going to a small electrical junction box on the firewall with a small bolt holding it's spade end to the box (photo attached) in that same junction box, an inch to the left of the fusible link is another black wire, also with it's spade bolted to the block...note that this wire is part of a large shielded bundle of wires and is not rubbery feeling like the fusible link. This wire has some melting right by the metal spade...you can see some bubbling in the picture...help!

J.G.

 

[Davea Lux]

The wire looks like it is melted about where the fusible link tab should be which probably means the fusible link has failed. Take a test light and see if there is power to the terminal, most likely not. Next order of business will to replace the fusible link. Before hooking the end to the firewall plug, check to see if there is a heavy voltage draw so you do not burn it out again. Then report back. You may have a short in the under dash harness, the most common cause of link failures.

Dave

 

[Jay Gibbs]

Thanks for the help...back on track and all power restored!...Now not quite sure it was partly ground related too...after replacing the fusible link, initially I still had no power. Removed ground wire and neg battery cable from block, scuffed up the surfaces well and reattached leads...bingo!

I may try putting the old fusible back on now that I know I've got good grounds and see what happens...

J.G.

 

[Fishfan]

Hey guys,

Thanks for the welcome! I've got a 65 Fury III with the 318 poly that my grandfather bought new in 1965, he died in 1971. Car mostly sat til my grandmother died in 1988. I've had it since then...has a little over 40,000 miles! I've just done a COMPLETE suspension/brake/fuel system rebuild and added front and rear sway bars that transform the handling. Now I find I'm looking for a little more power to match the newfound sporty suspension. I'm trying to put a 4bbl intake and carb on it. The problem seems to be that the linkage is different for my current 2bbl stromberg. As it is now, the 2bbl linkage "pulls" from the top to increase rpm but the 4bbl carb seems to need a "push" from the bottom to increase rpm...I absolutely want to retain the original linkage setup and seem to need to pick a different carb to accomplish this. I'm looking for increased performance, not a "fuel efficient" carb...Maybe I have the wrong carb?? I have an intake with part # 2206384, and an NOS AFB carb # AO3131S. I Think I've heard of people using an edelbrock 1405, 1406 or 1806 AVS 650 cfm...what say ye?...

Thanks,

J.G.

Hi Jay, what carb did you finally go with. Any tips?

 

[Jay Gibbs]

I went with the Edelbrock 1406 with a Trans Dapt 2064- (1/2 inch) aluminium spacer plate. Works pretty nicely and adds that nice "4bbl groan" when the secondaries open. Performance definitely enhanced though I can't say how much was just the carb...I also added a mild performance cam and went from an open 2.93 rear end to a suregrip 3.55. Zero to 50 seems decently improved, but things really start to happen 55 to 80... significantly quicker in that range. All in all very pleased with the results.

J.G.

 

[Fishfan]

I went with the Edelbrock 1406 with a Trans Dapt 2064- (1/2 inch) aluminium spacer plate. Works pretty nicely and adds that nice "4bbl groan" when the secondaries open. Performance definitely enhanced though I can't say how much was just the carb...I also added a mild performance cam and went from an open 2.93 rear end to a suregrip 3.55. Zero to 50 seems decently improved, but things really start to happen 55 to 80... significantly quicker in that range. All in all very pleased with the results.

J.G.

Thanks a lot man. I have that same intake and I'm gonna follow your lead with the carb and spacer. Awesome. Thanks again.

 

[Fishfan]

Well I've made some progress over the last few months...had the manifold media blasted and painted it poly red. Bought and installed all new coolant nipples. Had to buy a new coolant temp sending unit as the 2bbl unit is too small. I found a 3/8" phenolic spacer was just thick enough to allow the butterflies to open without interference while keeping the overall height increase to a minimum.

Also purchased a pair of the finned aluminium valve covers from the blokes at Pentastar Restorations. Think I'm going to leave them natural cast look rather than polishing them. I've got all the new gaskets I'll need and think that the throttle linkage adaptation shouldn't be too difficult. The last piece of the puzzle is the poly performance cam I found at camcraftcams...figure if I'm going this far, a little lumpy idle should tie the whole project together...

J.G.

Which temperature sending unit did you buy? And I guess you went with the Trans dapt 2064 instead of the 3/8 spacer you mention here?

 

[Jay Gibbs]

Which temperature sending unit did you buy? And I guess you went with the Trans dapt 2064 instead of the 3/8 spacer you mention here?

Yeah, Trans Dapt 2064...I didn't like the look of the composite brown phenolic spacer indtalled...figured the silver aluminum one blended better with the carb. I got a replacement temp sender from RockAuto for a 1961 Fury 318 4bbl (which is what the intake came off originally) so it's a direct fit.

J.G.

 

[Fishfan]

Yeah, Trans Dapt 2064...I didn't like the look of the composite brown phenolic spacer indtalled...figured the silver aluminum one blended better with the carb. I got a replacement temp sender from RockAuto for a 1961 Fury 318 4bbl (which is what the intake came off originally) so it's a direct fit.

J.G.

Cool. I have the same casting number so mine probably came off a similar car.

 

[Fishfan]

Yeah, Trans Dapt 2064...I didn't like the look of the composite brown phenolic spacer indtalled...figured the silver aluminum one blended better with the carb. I got a replacement temp sender from RockAuto for a 1961 Fury 318 4bbl (which is what the intake came off originally) so it's a direct fit.

J.G.

After going with the trans-dapt spacer, I'm thinking about switching to the phenolic one you mentioned. Any more specifics as to make/part number? I'm having trouble with warm starts and think it's just a question of fuel boiling. Would like to try the phenolic spacer to see if it makes a difference.

 

[Jay Gibbs]

I'll see if I can find the paperwork on it. I also had an occasional long crank on a warm start. I adjusted the timing slightly (think I advanced it???) and starting has been fine since.

 

[Jay Gibbs]

Here's the finished product by the way!...

 

[Canadian 66 Fury]

I had thought about doing a dual quad 290 hp setup but had heard that they were difficult to get tuned "just right"...(I've also had a triple deuce setup gathering dust in my garage for 25 years that I figured would be a royal pain to set up and never did anything with)...

J. G.

Do you still have the deuce manifold still?

 

[Snotty]

Still on of my favorite pictures in my files:

 

[Fishfan]

Here's the finished product by the way!...

View attachment 575411

Mine isn't as clean as yours.

 

[Jay Gibbs]

Very nice...I didn't put the factory a/c back on mine because the old York compressor took up so much space and looks so much cleaner without it. It also was pretty poor at actually cooling. Is that a VintageAir setup on yours? Wondering how well they actually work?...

 

[Fishfan]

Very nice...I didn't put the factory a/c back on mine because the old York compressor took up so much space and looks so much cleaner without it. It also was pretty poor at actually cooling. Is that a VintageAir setup on yours? Wondering how well they actually work?...

It's a Classic Auto Air unit. I live in Miami, can't live without AC down here. Car has always been a Florida car and had factory AC despite the fact that it's the "economy" model with the 318 Poly. The original compressor gave up the ghost a few years ago. System now runs on R-134a