REBELLE 300
Member
you think this one will work ? More Information for CENTRIC 13063047
66 Chrysler 300 440 TNT first restauration
- Thread starter REBELLE 300
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REBELLE 300
Member
you thinks this one will work ? More Information for CENTRIC 13063047
If it came up as 67 or 68 Chrysler Plymouth Dodge Full Size with disc brakes then yes.
So I looked up that master cylinder for a 1968 Chrysler, and it is listed as correct for disc brakes, so you're good to go with that one.
REBELLE 300
Member
thanks you very much Ross
Just Carbs
Well-Known Member
Inspect your vinyl top EVERYWHERE for any signs of corrosion underneath it. Diligently inspect for corrosion around the front and back glass.
Your pictures show a hint of corrosion under some of your trim work. Under the rockers will become a problem also.
The reason I ask these questions is that the answers may play a big part in your options as to what the repaint or restoration of the current paint that's on the car car will be.
If the top doesn't need to come off, and the trim removal turns up no corrosion, then the car is a good candidate for a same color repaint, a paint restoration without color blending, or paint blend restoration.
In my opinion that car with that option package is as good as you could hope to get in a Chrysler C body car, except the absence of factory air. And the car is certainly worthy of a new paint job. I think it would be stunning in the factory colors. Black vinyl over pristine yellow paint is way cool, always has been.
To repair the existing paint will cost $$$$$$$$.
To paint it the same color will cost $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.
The change to black will cost $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.
Your pictures show a hint of corrosion under some of your trim work. Under the rockers will become a problem also.
The reason I ask these questions is that the answers may play a big part in your options as to what the repaint or restoration of the current paint that's on the car car will be.
If the top doesn't need to come off, and the trim removal turns up no corrosion, then the car is a good candidate for a same color repaint, a paint restoration without color blending, or paint blend restoration.
In my opinion that car with that option package is as good as you could hope to get in a Chrysler C body car, except the absence of factory air. And the car is certainly worthy of a new paint job. I think it would be stunning in the factory colors. Black vinyl over pristine yellow paint is way cool, always has been.
To repair the existing paint will cost $$$$$$$$.
To paint it the same color will cost $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.
The change to black will cost $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.
Last edited:
REBELLE 300
Member
I totally get where you are coming from but at the end of the day I didn’t purchase this car to make money reselling it’s really for me to enjoy driving it and that yellow and black top is really not for me I am sure you understand
Just Carbs
Well-Known Member
I totally do understand. I had a triple black 66 Fury Sport 111 something or another with the 440.
REBELLE 300
Member
do you guys think i should redo all the brake line (cooper and flex) they're 58 years old , i am going to put a new master white two lines i am thinking might as well no ?
GOLDMYN
Senior Member
Me, I'd clean-em up, inspect and if their not rusted, go with them, just new cylinders
Depends on the condition of the brake lines. BTW, those are steel, not copper. If they look good, leave them. If there is any question or you see some that has been replaced already, you should be able to get the complete kit and replace them all.
The flex or rubber lines, yes... Replace them, even if they look good on the outside. They fail internally and might not look bad on the outside.
fury fan
Senior Member
To add onto what @Big_John said.
Rubber hoses are usually ~$15 each. Replace all 3 of them. (although 66-68 Budd front hoses might be more)
There are NO NO NO places to use copper tubing with car fluids (except for perhaps some sensing lines on the AC?).
Copper will work-harden from automotive vibration and will crack/leak. Cannot risk that on fuel or brakes.
There is modern brake tubing that is copper-colored, (called cupric?), so make sure to get hte right stuff. Although auto parts stores generally don't sell copper tubing anyway.
But I've seen at least 1 person on the internet bragging about replacing all their tubing with copper from a home-goods store, so it's worth a mention.
As for your current tubing - you need to pop them out of the clips and inspect 360deg around them. Keep in mind that if the tube leaks anywhere, you lose all the brakes fed by it. If there's 1 weak area, the whole tube is generally junk. (yes, they can be cut/flared/repaired, but it's a PITA).
If there's any doubt on your tubing, I would recommend getting a kit from Fine Lines, Inline Tube, etc.
There's a certain satisfaction in knowing that *everything* is new and shouldn't need to be touched again for as long as you own the car.
Rubber hoses are usually ~$15 each. Replace all 3 of them. (although 66-68 Budd front hoses might be more)
There are NO NO NO places to use copper tubing with car fluids (except for perhaps some sensing lines on the AC?).
Copper will work-harden from automotive vibration and will crack/leak. Cannot risk that on fuel or brakes.
There is modern brake tubing that is copper-colored, (called cupric?), so make sure to get hte right stuff. Although auto parts stores generally don't sell copper tubing anyway.
But I've seen at least 1 person on the internet bragging about replacing all their tubing with copper from a home-goods store, so it's worth a mention.
As for your current tubing - you need to pop them out of the clips and inspect 360deg around them. Keep in mind that if the tube leaks anywhere, you lose all the brakes fed by it. If there's 1 weak area, the whole tube is generally junk. (yes, they can be cut/flared/repaired, but it's a PITA).
If there's any doubt on your tubing, I would recommend getting a kit from Fine Lines, Inline Tube, etc.
There's a certain satisfaction in knowing that *everything* is new and shouldn't need to be touched again for as long as you own the car.
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
I know exactly how you feel. My 65 300 was originally gold with gold/black interior which did nothing for me. After the transformation to turquoise with white interior it was another story. That said, the yellow does appeal to me.
Just Carbs
Well-Known Member
I remember living in the 60s on the MSU Starkville campus as an adolescent teen.
Lots of light and dark- gold, green, beige, brown, blue and other everyday colors cars.
Then, there was a white top over turquoise 67 GTO convertible. A white top over red 66 Cadillac convertible. And a black vinyl over yellow 68 LTD hardtop. Those were the three cars that got looked at.
frank cox
New Member
Uh, Nuh* Daffodil Yellow is a great color(on my L) don't change it...sell it to me and find the color 66 you really like;)
REBELLE 300
Member
I finally fell in love whit the daffodil yellow
fury fan
Senior Member
And you just saved yourself $15k, too!
frank cox
New Member
"Good Man!" That color is clean and 'stands out' in a crowd...even at Mopar events;)
Just Carbs
Well-Known Member
15K buys a lot of love.
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