68 Fury III Resurrection in MA
- Thread starter RGORHAM29
- Start date
Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
Great thread, looks like you are keeping at it. Been there with my ‘70 since the original stub was bent. Why did you decide to replace the stub?
RGORHAM29
Active Member
Thanks. On the original frame The rear crossmember near to the torsion bar was gone. Murphy’s law says if I drive it it will be dangerous. See pic. More I poked the more it crumbled. So I figure I would replace the frame. Was able to drive it get a frame off a 67 fury set up for 383 (swaybars). It’s tirned into a bigger project that initially anticipated but equally rewarding so far.
Pic of old frame -
RGORHAM29
Active Member
Best way to figure out how things go together....take it apart.
Have a good weekend
RGORHAM29
Active Member
"All I want for Christmas is my two front......"
Looking forward to some time off this Holiday week. Maybe I can get a day or two to work on the car.
Looking forward to some time off this Holiday week. Maybe I can get a day or two to work on the car.
The spindle and caliper on your work bench is a single piston unit. '67-'68 used a dual piston caliper. Not a big deal unless you are going for an original disk brake setup for 1967. The single piston caliper and spindle will bolt up to your car and is a better choice as parts are much more available. That style single piston caliper was used on '69-'73 fury and others.
Dave
Last edited:
Allacks
New Member
I can't wait to see what else comes for this car! It's a really great looking car. Hope to see another 68 Fury on the road again here soon.
RGORHAM29
Active Member
In the garage. looking to rebuild the single piston calipers to the front disc brake set up. looks like a good afternoon/evening project. (goal is swapping drums to disc in front). i am told the the set up i have are from a 67 fury when i bought them this summer. I am looking for a complete rebuild kit for KH 78933 267 single piston caliper.
The piston itself measures 2.75" in dia (or a hair less maybe 2.65? I am headed out to pick up a micrometer as the measurement seems important.) The problem is that i am not seeing this kelsey hayes model # online. maybe it doesn't matter? I did see a set up on RamManin NC website. Yikes- cost is motivation to rebuild what I have in hand at the moment.
Here is my ask....Do you folks know of a good resource for KH vintage brakes rebuild kits? Part 2 - does anyone know how to decode the casting numbers on the side ? is it simple a model #? or tell me the year etc.
Side note...i know i eventually need to make sure i match power booster, master cylinder and new lines to a disc set up. rotors are 1 3/16" of thickness....may be salvageable for the short term. Just not there yet.
Thanks!
The piston itself measures 2.75" in dia (or a hair less maybe 2.65? I am headed out to pick up a micrometer as the measurement seems important.) The problem is that i am not seeing this kelsey hayes model # online. maybe it doesn't matter? I did see a set up on RamManin NC website. Yikes- cost is motivation to rebuild what I have in hand at the moment.
Here is my ask....Do you folks know of a good resource for KH vintage brakes rebuild kits? Part 2 - does anyone know how to decode the casting numbers on the side ? is it simple a model #? or tell me the year etc.
Side note...i know i eventually need to make sure i match power booster, master cylinder and new lines to a disc set up. rotors are 1 3/16" of thickness....may be salvageable for the short term. Just not there yet.
Thanks!
RGORHAM29
Active Member
confirmed 2.75" piston.
When you start the rebuild process, soak the bleeder screws liberally with a good penetrating oil. Bleeder screws on these units sometimes get seized from sitting and will twist off. Major PIA to remove them after that happens. This style caliper takes the same rebuild kit not matter what year they were used so do not worry about that. Rock auto usually has the kits, be sure to go with a US made kit. Most of the kits do not have replacement rubber bushings for the pins so you will need to source those seperately.
Dave
Dave
RGORHAM29
Active Member
Thanks Dave. Soaking the bleeders now.
RGORHAM29
Active Member
After a good soaking...bleed screws came out easily. Awaiting parts from online (piston, rings, clips, etc.) Calipers cleaned up nicely. So did slide pins. Amazing how simple these devices are.
I will finish Cleaning brackets and control arms while I wait for the shipment. Will clean up and order replacement bushings too. That’s a wrap for Saturday.
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
Some how I lost track of this thread, great progress made. Looking good.
RGORHAM29
Active Member
Quick question...separated spindle from assembly. Noticed thin white plyable membrane at base of spindle. I want to clean up the assembly (maybe Brad blast) but fearful of disrupting membrane. I don’t recall seeing this on a my sons camry when I worked on it. Any input on its importance and purpose will be appreciated.
By the way - spindle and rotor guts was not bad. Can’t say the same for the dust shield.
By the way - spindle and rotor guts was not bad. Can’t say the same for the dust shield.
RGORHAM29
Active Member
eh....auto corrected.....meant bead blast. lol.
The thin membrane can be discarded if you choose. It is a dust/road wash seal to keep those items away from the back side of the hub seal. You can also use RTV red or black to seal this area if that is a concern. The white expanded foam material that is used to wrap fragile items can also be used in place of the OEM factory foam. A sheet of that material can be cut with a Exacto knife or similar instrument to make a new foam seal. Your parts have a lot of what appears to be grease on them, this can be removed with Brakeclean. Getting rid of grease is necessary to get a quality media blast.
Dave
Dave
RGORHAM29
Active Member
Thanks Dave. Great info. BTW - You are correctin your observation ... lots of old grease and 1/2 can of PB blaster on the bolts. The two piece rotors were pretty cool to see ... But I assume hard to replace.
Unless you get lucky with a donor car, they are long gone from production. Take a Mic to yours to see if they can be salvaged..
Dave
RGORHAM29
Active Member
Left is 1 1/4”. Right is 1 3/16” overall. I think that is still in acceptable tolerances ....knowing that if they will be machined i will loose some depth.
Disc rotors on your C-Body started out at 1.25", they can be cut to a minimum thickness of 1.20". they should be cut an equal amount on both sides. (Legally they can be 1.19" or .060" under, mopar spec recommended .050." max under).
Dave
Similar threads
