68 Polara restore back on

[HWYCRZR]

I sent my brake booster and master cylinder cover to Booster Dewey for re- build and re plating. I was trying to rebuild my master cylinder, but from sitting for so long the seals etched into the wall. I tried to hone them out, but they were too deep. The manual says not to take more than .002 out of the bore or it will not seal properly. Based on the two x’s on the mounting flange I think it has already had two rebuilds.
I ordered a rebuilt from Rock Auto as the picture was just like the original. I received one that had a new style lid and had a little different style casting.
I think I will send it back and keep looking.

 

[Big_John]

My wire harness hold down straps are also missing. They may have been rusted away. I will have to think of an alternate way to replace/ replicate the wire harness hold downs.

All those straps are is a piece of sheet metal spot welded in place and bent around the wire. You could do something similar and then a spot of RTV or epoxy to hold it in place. An alternative is some of those self stick wire holders like these.

 

[HWYCRZR]

I now have my fuel tank installed. I cleaned off the remaining undercoating and surface dirt with a wire wheel on my grinder. Kind of a dusty job, but had a good 20mph wind at my back. Then I used the Eastwood gas tank sealer and sealed the inside. The bottom of the tank was pretty clean, but the top had a good coat of scale on it. It was kind of labor intensiive. Wash it out, clean with metal prep to make sure the varnish was gone, wash wit diluted muriatic acid, flush with water a couple of times, put in a pint of easy etch sloshing it around, drain, rinse with acetone twice, then put in the sealer and cover all surfaces. Got that done and then painted it.
Installed and hooked up the fuel lines.

 

[65sporty]

That turned out nice

 

[HWYCRZR]

Finally found the right style master cylinder. After ordering 2 from a picture. Neither worked. I happened to look at the O’Reilys site and they actually showed one in stock at one of their stores. I decided to stop by. They had two re-built ones. One was “wrong” like the others I ordered but the other had an original Chrysler part number 2880808 in the casting, looks just like the picture in the parts book and has the bolt with the H used on the other brake parts. I couldn’t compare the part number with mine as it was already an aftermarket piece from the machine d 80’s.
My re-plated cover and booster should be back by Monday.

 

[HWYCRZR]

Cowl insulation blanket installed. My old wasn’t too bad, but was pretty brittle. I used the old for a pattern.

Used tape and plastic to protect for spray adhesive overspray.

Blanket installed.

 

[HWYCRZR]

Installed firewall insulation. I sent DMT old insulation in 2007 along with all my body gaskets and heater box foam. Jim was able to measure and send me back new parts for every thing but but the firewall insulation. He copied it, but he didn’t have the correct equipment to punch it out at that time. But he does now so I ordered it. Like Allen the other stuff he copied it is a perfect match down to the dotted line cut outs.

 

[Polara_500]

Dang that's looking nice - can't wait for the final product.

 

[HWYCRZR]

I am almost to the point that I need to start thinking about installing the headliner. Or at least the insulation. Get all the spray adhesive stuff out of the way.

 

[HWYCRZR]

Rebuilt and plated booster and master cylinder cap complete. Sent it to Booster Dewey AKA Power Brake Booster Exchange. Recieved it back from Booster Steve (Power Brake Booster Exchange). Who the F is Steve? Is he related to Alice? (Smokie “Alice- who the f$&k is Alice” late 60’s early 70’s song) I digress.
Looks great.

Even came with free “Booster” Nuts

 

[HWYCRZR]

Heater box.
I rebuilt the heater box a few winters ago and has been in storage since then. One of The challenges was the heater motor. I ordered a 4 season 35502 blower motor. It is supposed to be the correct one. It bolts up and is about the right size, although it is a little longer. However the vent hole is in the wrong location. So if you expect the 35502 to fit you have to leave the vent off. Every search I did for a 68 Polara non A/C came back to this p/n. I decided that I would move the hole. I marked where the hole needed to go and took the motor apart. It’s not like the original where you can unbolt it, the cap is staked on. Once I gutted it I used a 7/8” step bit and drilled a new hole. I cleaned the shavings off the magnets plugged the old hole and put it back together. Some day I may seem if I can’t find an old shop that could re build the original. The bushings are pretty sloppy. Here are the changes.

 

[HWYCRZR]

Now the heater box itself. It cleaned up nicely.

 

[HWYCRZR]

If anyone is interested here is a pdf of the seals and gaskets. I made up this list for Jim at DMT when I sent some of my old seals and compared to the A and B body kits he already had. Here is a link to the PDF File and thread I posted it in.

68 Polara Body and Heater Gasket Reference

 

[HWYCRZR]

Heater box install.

Air horn install to cowl.

Heater box in. Much easier without the dash.

Was able to mask around the old P/N stamp

 

[HWYCRZR]

Booster and master cylinder in. Heater hoses hooked up.

For the master I had to clean up my original rear brake line( master cylinder to splitter) as that line in the kit I ordered from Inline tube 10 years ago had the wrong fitting on the master cylinder end. Master cylinder has 1/2” fitting on the rear (for the front brakes) and a 9/16” fitting on the front (for the rear brakes). The line had the correct one for the splitter/ portion valve, but the top had a 1/2” fitting instead of the 9/16”.
I was going to cut the ends off the tube and switch my old fitting with the new, but the leg length wasn’t long enough to get the flare tool in to replace flare. It old tube cleaned up good and flushed with brake cleaner. I still may contact In-line Tube and see if I can’t get a replacement part. After 10 years I expect to pay for it if they will send it. Rest of brake line and fuel line kits from them fit perfectly. The transmission tube lines were a different story.

 

[HWYCRZR]

Dirty Bastard.
Bled my brakes an found one of my front wheel cylinders leaking. I did rebuild them 10 years ago and they sat since then. I decided to replace both of them. I have sneaking suspicion that when I honed them out when I re built them that they were too far gone. Better safe than sorry.
The rear’s I rebuilt last year. So far so good.

 

[HWYCRZR]

New wheel cylinders in and re- bled. Pedal seems pretty solid. The true test will be when I get it off the blocks and on the road. Hopefully this fall?

The pistons were stuck in the old wheel cylinders. Too many years of sitting static. Had retire the originals as pictured here.

 

[HWYCRZR]

Did another bone head move. I threw away a NOS box Friday in time for the garbage man because it was in my way. It was for my NOS front parking brake cable.
I Had the brake cable routed, everything thing seemed to fit fine until I decided to hook up the actual brake mechanism. It is about 4” short. I also didn’t check the p/n on the box as I assumed I got the right part. Now I don’t know what p/n I have.

I ordered it off e-bay years ago it probably said fits all 68 c- bodies. This was back when I was just getting started and thought all C bodies were about the same.
I kept most of my parts receipts so maybe I can find it and verify the number. It is either for a Fury or Chrysler. If my photographic memory is correct it ended with 00 which is for Pontiac. I will have to do some research before I sell it. Original 68 Dodge cable is 38” from sheath flat to sheath flat with a 93-1/4” long cable (2467501).
The NOS cable is 33-3/4 from sheath seat to sheath seat and cable is 92-3/4” long.

Don’t throw boxes or old parts away until you have verified the fit and operation.

 

[Big_John]

Don't beat yourself up over this... From my experiences, the NOS part might be in the wrong box. Lot's of things happen in 50 years of sitting around on a parts shelf.

 

[HWYCRZR]

What I wouldn’t give to have access to the engineering drawings to verify parts measurements sometimes.

The crazy part was I have had that part and box probably since 2007 and went through two moves. And I threw the box away 4 days ago. At least I didn’t throw the part away like I did my jack hold down. I thought it was an extra fuel tube hold down as I had previously replaced the fuel tank (1987). I even remember the day I threw it away. About 2 years later I figured out it was the jack hold down and not a scrap part.