'71 Sport Fury

Quick question guys. I got this felpro intake gasket but it looks like it doesn't have a hole punched in for the middle hole in the heads. Does that matter? The intake itself doesn't seem to do anything with this hole, it just leads to a dead end so I think it might be a heat sink or something? Anyway are these gaskets okay to use despite this?

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Quick question guys. I got this felpro intake gasket but it looks like it doesn't have a hole punched in for the middle hole in the heads. Does that matter? The intake itself doesn't seem to do anything with this hole, it just leads to a dead end so I think it might be a heat sink or something? Anyway are these gaskets okay to use despite this?

Your gaskets are for non egr, non heat riser application. If the intake doesn't have a crossover passage... don't worry about it. You might have cold running issues without it, but should be ok when the engine warms up.
 
Your gaskets are for non egr, non heat riser application. If the intake doesn't have a crossover passage... don't worry about it. You might have cold running issues without it, but should be ok when the engine warms up.
Thanks Cantflip, I took your advice. Haven't fired it up yet as it was raining last night and I didn't get around to putting the new oil pump and screen on, but I'll let you guys know the results when it gets running.

Man last night the door lock sensor finally gave out on my Golf and the alarm keeps going off every couple of minutes if I lock it with the remote. If I lock it with the key it doesn't engage the alarm and is pretty much fine. It's just a huge pain in my *** is all. superior German engineering right?
 
I've started looking into some aftermarket suspension parts, I'm not sold on anything yet but I'm figuring on building the Fury into a really good handling car. It already handles pretty good but I'm going for something that could handle a track well. Sort of similar to what Sczuylevch sounded like he was doing. Is a new rear axle necessary? I was planning on maybe upgrading my rear axle from an 8 1/4 to an 8 3/4 some time, but that seems less and less necessary as time goes on. Anyhow I've been looking over rear sway bar kits and rear brake conversion kits, I'll probably be buying them once I get the car together and get all of the rust patched up. Maybe before I paint it though.

I spent a good chunk of time yesterday scouring my oil pan, trying to get as much old oil off of it as I could. I got the new oil pump and oil screen put on too. I gotta double check them to make sure they are on okay before I put the pan on. My dad said we should probably adjust the engine mounts while we are down there because they still look kinda off.
 
Hmmm... they're not really "adjustable".
I'm guessing a new set of mounts may be in order.
Yeah that might be the case. They aren't quite sitting right, between the engine mount and the mounting surface that is. Some of the rubber isn't making full contact with the mounting surface. I'll take a few pictures to try and illustrate what I'm talking about.

I guess they could be the wrong mounts. But thats sort of weird because they fit and everything. Maybe it's another case of subpar korean parts.
 
You might as well replace them while you're at it. You will not break the bank with a new set.
That might end up being necessary, Which is too bad because they are pretty much brand new. Less then 500 miles on them probably.
 
Those are the engine mounts. Two are I'd the driver side (the first and last i think) and the other one is of the passenger side.

What's the verdict?

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I read your whole thread last night. It sounds to me like your intentions are to get the mechanicals straighten out and solid. The do what you need to to keep the rust from getting any worse. I'm not a fan of putting bandaids on when something can be fixed properly, but I'd put the dash cap on it and use the $700 to tend to something that's in greater need.
 
I read your whole thread last night. It sounds to me like your intentions are to get the mechanicals straighten out and solid. The do what you need to to keep the rust from getting any worse. I'm not a fan of putting bandaids on when something can be fixed properly, but I'd put the dash cap on it and use the $700 to tend to something that's in greater need.
Thanks live4theking, thanks for reading by the way. I pretty much landed on exactly what you suggested. It just seems like the right thing to do at this stage in the game.

Anyhow update on the car. I got the oil pan in place myself. Without even needing to lift the engine up. Which was pretty tricky. Otherwise everything is in place and I'm just waiting to get off work to hook up the carb. I'll update tomorrow with whether that fixed it or not
 
I fired it up today. There doesn't seem to be a knock anymore. But the engine sounds a little lazy right now. I only ran it for a few minutes. How long does it take for new lifters to pump up with oil?

At first the engine sounded a little strange but it began to even out after a while. Still lazy though.
 
Could you describe "lazy"? Have you given a test drive yet?

I may be able to help, but I would need to understand the symptoms that are now present.
 
Could you describe "lazy"? Have you given a test drive yet?

I may be able to help, but I would need to understand the symptoms that are now present.
I ran it a bit later on and it started to run better. I guess the lifters needed to get pumped up. And the laziness was the carb, it just needed the idle turned up I think.

Right now it's doing pretty good but it leaks a little oil. But overall so far it's running pretty good. I was worried for a bit it might have spun a bearing but it looks like that wasn't the case.

Anything in particular I should keep an eye on? Aside from the oil level
 
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