'71 Sport Fury

Been messing around with my call all day trying to get the throttle linkage to work. I went out and bought a new throttle linkage bracket, but now the kickdown linkage is completely wrong. The kickdown linkage on my Fury is one solid piece, but the new throttle linkage bracket is one made for a kickdown linkage that comes in two pieces I guess.

Could something be cobbled together to make it work with the original kickdown linkage set up, or should I buy a different linkage like the one listed below?
Mopar Small Block 904 727 2 barrel Kickdown Linkage LA 318 360 dart abody duster
or this, this one looks more complete
Mopar Dodge Small Block 273 318 340 360 Kick Down Linkage 904 727 Dart Duster
Would this one work even though it's for an A body?
I'm pretty sure my Transmission is a 727 by the way, So that may be an issue.
 
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I used a Lokar kit on a customers cuda. It worked well. Is there a kit just for mopar? If so use that, from what I remember it had good instructions and installed easily.
 
I know a lot of people recommend these BPE - BPE Torqueflite Kickdown Cable Kit (BPE3350). I have not used one but in the future thats what I plan on using. On my 69 Coronet that I used to have, when we replaced the 318 with a 360, my Dad modified the stock 2 barrel kickdown linkage and it worked fine on the 4 barrel. I believe he just made the rod longer and switched to a 4 bbl bracket. The Lokar will work also. Thats what I ran on my Dakota, but I had to use magnum brackets because I am running magnum heads on the motor. This may be able to help some to 318 4 bbl install and linkage questions - Small Block Mopar Engine - Mopar Forum
 
65sporty said:
I used a Lokar kit on a customers cuda. It worked well. Is there a kit just for mopar? If so use that, from what I remember it had good instructions and installed easily.
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I ended up going with a 4bbl kickdown linkage from an old A or B body. It's adjustable at the carb and the trans sections of the linkage so I think I should be fine.

I steered clear of the Lokar because I heard that some of them were sort of flimsy. Did your Lokar kit feel flimsy at all?
225WinchesterFan said:
I know a lot of people recommend these BPE - BPE Torqueflite Kickdown Cable Kit (BPE3350). I have not used one but in the future thats what I plan on using. On my 69 Coronet that I used to have, when we replaced the 318 with a 360, my Dad modified the stock 2 barrel kickdown linkage and it worked fine on the 4 barrel. I believe he just made the rod longer and switched to a 4 bbl bracket. The Lokar will work also. Thats what I ran on my Dakota, but I had to use magnum brackets because I am running magnum heads on the motor. This may be able to help some to 318 4 bbl install and linkage questions - Small Block Mopar Engine - Mopar Forum
Click to expand...
I would have tried modifying the kickdown linkage but the new 4bbl carb was way too wide for that. The linkage would have had to come out at a weird angle and it didn't look like it was going to work. I was worried it was going to mess with when the car would try kicking down.

I ended up needing to modify the throttle cable a little. The stock one was a hair too long so I attached a small hose clamp to the base of the throttle cable (Where it hooks up to the mount) to shorten where the cable was hooking up to the carb. It seems to work well, and looks pretty sturdy so I might just leave it like that.
 
65sporty said:
No it did not feel flimsy, I also like the braided cable better then the factory style plastic coated.
Click to expand...
That's good, I may go that route if this linkage doesn't work out. Although I hope it doesn't come to that. These transmission kickdown cables are insane for what people want for them. I could probably pick up a set of junkyard 340 headers for the same money. Okay maybe not but still.
 
Well I got the linkage in the mail today but I can't for the life of me figure out how it goes together. Anyone know how the kickdown linkage is supposed to hook up? It came out of a dart with a 360 so I have no idea. It's adjustable though so length shouldn't matter
 
TheFearlessFury said:
Well I got the linkage in the mail today but I can't for the life of me figure out how it goes together. Anyone know how the kickdown linkage is supposed to hook up? It came out of a dart with a 360 so I have no idea. It's adjustable though so length shouldn't matter
Click to expand...
Your FSM is your friend.
 
I used the factory setup on my 71 FuryIII. I made a plate out of flat stock and moved the throttle cable bracket back a little. No problems with acceleration or shifting. Worked like a charm.

image.jpeg
 
Oops. I also filed out the slot in the kickdown linkage so I had more adjustment.
 
Could you post more pictures Bart?

Did you use the solid bar kickdown linkage or the segmented one? Did you just modify the 2bbl bracket?
 
I drove my Fury to Helena Mt last month, so I can't get other pics until I move over in May. I used the solid bar on the factory 2 bbl bracket. All I did was take flat stock, drilled a hole in it to mount, and filed a notch on the edge so the nipple or tab on the throttle cable retainer would sit flush. I made the notch oversized so I had some adjustment in it. Use the solid bar linkage, and grind or file out the slot towards the front of the engine for additional travel. You want to keep pressure on the shift lever of the transmission at all times, so push the "bar" back so the lever is about 1/2 way through its travel, then tighten it down. You then take it for a test driver. If it kicks down at part throttle and shifts when it is supposed to, you did it correctly. If not, loosen the bolt and adjust it a little at a time until it is where you want it! I think mine ended up less than 3/8" forward of the original setting.
 
I am also parting out a 71 4 door right now. Let me know what you need, and I will see if I have it.
 
thanks Bart, I'm still trying to get the 4bbl segmented linkage to work, it looks like it has this elbow thing needs to be hooked up to something (number 7 on the kickdown linkage according to this diagram) But the only thing within reach is a bolt that seems to go between the shift linkage and the starter. Otherwise if that isn't it that it just flops around I guess? But that couldn't be right. could it?

there are some odds an ends I could use, like a pair of mirrors for the passenger and driver's side (I don't really like the look of the solitary driver's side mirror)
5.jpeg
 
Congratulations on your acquisition! Very attractive Fusey, even the way it is right now.
I once had the rear quarters repaired with patch panels on a 72 Newport and they were in far worse shape than yours. The right side quarter was so chewed up there wasn't enough meat left to work with. The body man had to make the patch panel using the wheel opening molding as a guide. The results were quite good (but I don't know how well they held up over time since I sold the car). So I think yours could be repaired.
 
Thanks Oliver, I always appreciate a compliment on my car!
I've been trying to address the drivetrain issues before moving onto body issues but the quarters and roof will pretty much have to be the next thing I do, The roof won't hold up unpainted for too much longer without getting some nasty rust.
 
I think there should be a boss on the transmission for that piece. This is from my '66 Fury.

image.jpeg
 
I do not have a passenger side mirror. I thought you were also looking fro a rear valance. That I do have!
 
TheFearlessFury said:
Thanks Oliver, I always appreciate a compliment on my car!
I've been trying to address the drivetrain issues before moving onto body issues but the quarters and roof will pretty much have to be the next thing I do, The roof won't hold up unpainted for too much longer without getting some nasty rust.
Click to expand...

You just don't know how much I want to see your car get some rust protection... not to be stuck up about it... just hate to see her dissolve.
 
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