commando1
Old Man with a Hat
My 2¢...
'71 Sport Fury
- Thread starter TheFearlessFury
- Start date
Way ahead compared to short block only plan...
TheFearlessFury
Active Member
Man that thing is not bad Commando, I think it's basically a completed version of the shortblock I posted. That looks like a really good option... I guess I need to start pinching my pennies to save up for that thing though...
225WinchesterFan
New Member
Another option would be to pick up a running 5.9 Magnum and convert it over to carb. A stock 5.9 running a carb is what Mopar Performance used to sell as there 300 Horse crate motor. You can change the cam- would also have to go with better springs to handle the lift and you can make a ton of power with one of these. Use the front end off of your 360 LA, timing chain cover, water pump, pulleys etc... Use the distributor off of your 360 LA and you will also have to use your oil pan. And the oil pick up screen. Buy a new one, they are cheap. You will have to buy a Cam Snout Extension to run a mechanical fuel pump. Magnum manifolds are available on Ebay etc.. This is a cheap way to go and a lot of people are running into the 12's in A bodies with these swaps. I know a C-body is heavier, but with a cam change people are running 375-400 horse's on junkyard 5.9 Magnums. I would just pick up a good running 5.9 and convert it over to carb and go. Got to magnumswap.com to get a idea of what you would need to do.
TheFearlessFury
Active Member
Dang that's pretty interesting too. I've thought before about doing something like that
If that makes you happy... think about for a start, just finding a rusty ram complete... they seem to hold little value here. Instead of the longblock, swap the entire works including transmission. If you have the harnesses and computers, it would be easy to run it as a stock ram driveline and then think tweaks.
I left Chrysler in 98, the older generation stuff was even easy to reprogram tire corrections to... no aftermarket equipment to buy. I bet the Ram and your Fury fight in the same weight class...
Imagine the possibilities of a fuel injected small block with a PCM you can find tuning software for from a number of companies, plus a 4 speed auto w/OD that can be tuned from the same software.
But, before I go too far... you have to love the direction of any modification or don't play there. I would still make summer cruising a priority for this car and dreams a "down the road" thing. Driveshaft will need remade, or actually just made. Exhaust won't be the same... interference??? IDK... headers are $$$ some minor parts swap (oil pan already mentioned) and a fuel tank with a suitable pump built in to run it all.
Lots of hours making wiring work, too.
You have some decisions to make, I would take the weekend before pulling the trigger, and keep a realistic budget in mind... not good to starve so the car may live. What ever you think it should cost, double or triple it... nobody gets all the little stuff in their first plan.
225WinchesterFan
New Member
Would be cheaper to convert over to carb. Your tranny that you have now will work. No wiring involved, just run the LA distributor and you are good to go. These make good horsepower! But cantflip does have a good point though. A lot of people run the fuel injection and serpentine belt etc... Also LA exhaust manifolds or headers work on the Magnum motors. Although the Magnum exhaust manifolds flow better. Especially the 92/93 5.2 Dakota manifolds. They are the biggest. But I dont know if they will fit properly in a c-body.
celticwarlock
Active Member
If you go the Magnum route, you will have to change your distributor gear, or get a cam with an iron gear to mesh with your iron distributor gear. Roller engines like modern Magnums have cams with harder drive gears, and your distributor gear will be eaten alive. Magnumswap.com has lots of information that you will find useful. The point here is that you have options. Once you do a little bit of homework, the right decision will present itself.
Well Fearless, it sounds like you will have a good support network if you go late model. I wasn't trying to step on the full on mod idea so much as help find a budget solution to get things in the right direction fast.
Don't forget in the whirlwind of choices that you might get away with a somewhat simple bearing replacement. I have been there, looking in the sofa cushions for hundreds and only finding pennies. Don't let the dreams get too far away from the budget.
Don't forget in the whirlwind of choices that you might get away with a somewhat simple bearing replacement. I have been there, looking in the sofa cushions for hundreds and only finding pennies. Don't let the dreams get too far away from the budget.
celticwarlock
Active Member
I have seen this happen before. I helped a friend of mine do a job like this years ago. A bearing spun, but the crank and rod were undamaged. We installed new ones with the motor still in the vehicle, and that thing is probably still on the road somewhere. Plastigauge is great stuff.
TheFearlessFury
Active Member
Thanks guys, I've thought it over and I'm leaning more towards BluePrint Engines Chrysler 408 Stroker 375HP Value Power Base Crate Engines BPC4082CT the 408 stroker is just really tempting for the money. It'll probably take me most of the summer to save up for the engine and still have a decent number in my savings account though. The magnum engine is nice, But I have a feeling it may end up costing more and not necessarily yielding the same results. I'd like to hear if anyone has any experience with these engines. The reviews seem somewhat positive, some people say the mopar performance engines are better but they are really expensive.
In the mean time I'll probably try running the car every once in a while to do some light cruising while running heavier oil weight to see if that helps a little.
In the mean time I'll probably try running the car every once in a while to do some light cruising while running heavier oil weight to see if that helps a little.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
When you buy an engine from a builder, it's a real crap shoot.
Buy a crate from Jegs or Summit and they back up the purchase.
Buy a crate from Jegs or Summit and they back up the purchase.
There's a guy over at FBBO that put a modern 5.9 in a 4 door satellite he's been documenting and doing it on the cheap the most cost effective way he can.
'68 Satellite 4-door light refurb...and big fat engine swap.
Pretty good read and I like the guys sense of humor
'68 Satellite 4-door light refurb...and big fat engine swap.
Pretty good read and I like the guys sense of humor
TheFearlessFury
Active Member
Thanks Commando, I was thinking the same thing. I'll probably order through summit for the free shipping. I wonder if I'll have to change the rear end on my car. Will the 8 1/4 be up to handling 375 horsepower? Also is that gross or net?
I also took a look at these, These are just a little more for a stroker 408 and seem to be held in a higher regard. They've been dyno'd and have a warrenty. Any thoughts? Chrysler Performance Crate Engines
I also took a look at these, These are just a little more for a stroker 408 and seem to be held in a higher regard. They've been dyno'd and have a warrenty. Any thoughts? Chrysler Performance Crate Engines
Last edited:
TheFearlessFury
Active Member
By the way I'm thinking about the 408 stroker that makes 375 horsepower with the lopey idle.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Never heard of the other place so google them and see what others out there may say about them.
Run the stock 8¼. Should be fine if you drive it with common sense. Should the day come that it does explode, deal with it then.
That 375 hp is at the flywheel on a test stand. Tweeked and tuned to the max under optimal conditions. 350hp at the flywheel can be expected with 290 of it making it to the rear wheels. That's why I'm thinking the 8¼ should be OK.
Plus, it's still a SMALL BLOCK.
TheFearlessFury
Active Member
Thanks for the info, I haven't heard much about CME other than a recommendation on a B or A body forum where someone was telling this guy to steer clear of the Blueprint engines because they are hit or miss and the company has a bad record of customer service. That was almost 4 years ago though and the company is still around so many blueprint stepped it up in terms of quality and customer service. But then again CME is still around too and their website seems pretty impressive. Along with their warranty. I should ask CME if their horsepower rating is at the wheels or on a stand though, Thanks for bringing that up. Thats still quite a bit more than my old 360 is making at the wheel either way though. I'd be surprised if it was making 230 at the wheels, before the engine knock.Never heard of the other place so google them and see what others out there may say about them.
Run the stock 8¼. Should be fine if you drive it with common sense. Should the day come that it does explode, deal with it then.
That 375 hp is at the flywheel on a test stand. Tweeked and tuned to the max under optimal conditions. 350hp at the flywheel can be expected with 290 of it making it to the rear wheels. That's why I'm thinking the 8¼ should be OK.
Plus, it's still a SMALL BLOCK.
I like to imagine it makes more though lol.
Anyhow you think the warranty (12k miles or one year) and the dyno sheet is worth the extra money? They have a good rating with the BBB and even apologized to one dissatisfied customer who was only upset because it took a little too long for his tastes.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
To be 100% honest, I haven't a clue on whether Jegs, Summit, CME, Pedro's, or the guy next door is the best source for a stroker SB.
You research as best as you can and roll the dice.
You research as best as you can and roll the dice.
225WinchesterFan
New Member
Google the crate motors and research them. Read the reviews. They will be mixed. And base your decision on what you feel comfortable with. I would go crate motor over the local machine shop. We built 2 360's in the late 90's and if I had it to over again I would have just went with the 360/380 horse Mopar Performance crate motors(no longer made).
225WinchesterFan
New Member
Also keep in mind the Magnum is good way to go if your on a budget. Your looking at $4000-$5000 for the crate motor. You should be able to pick up a running 5.9 Mag for around $300-$500. The computer controlled fuel injection keeps the cylinders in very good shape. Cross hatch lines are still visible after 100,000 miles most of the time. Then you would just basically tear it down to a long block- remove all the fuel injection, intake manifold etc... Now the old 360/300 horse crate motors were the same as this 5.9 you will have. Only difference is a dual plane intake with a carb. Same cam, pistons etc... Need more power- the 380 horse version came with a different cam and a single plane intake. Heads were the same except for the springs and retainers. Intake will cost you around $250. And you have options for the cam, Bullet Cams can regrind the cam you have for around $150, or you can go with a new cam say from Hughes and your talking around $370. You can put the springs and retainers on there yourself and save a lot of money (could also have this done) Or go with a set of new heads that already have them installed. These heads will make more power than the stock heads. Your looking at around $1100-$1500 for the new heads depending on what you go with. Go to forabodiesonly and they have a section specifically for the Magnums and do some reading.
Similar threads
