'71 Sport Fury

My 2¢....

The Blueprint engine sounds like a way to go, but is that what you really want?

You have a car that is a little rough around the edges. Is a $4k plus engine a good decision for this car? There's always other areas that will need money thrown at it too.

Here's what I would do.... First, I would figure out what the noise is... and if's reasonable to fix, well... fix it. If the engine needs to come out for a rebuild... Pull it out and rebuild it. There's books that will take you through it step by step and there's a wealth of info out on the intrawebs.

IMHO, this car is a learning experience for you. You aren't going to learn much from giving a credit card number to a guy on the phone.
 
Big_John said:
My 2¢....

The Blueprint engine sounds like a way to go, but is that what you really want?

You have a car that is a little rough around the edges. Is a $4k plus engine a good decision for this car? There's always other areas that will need money thrown at it too.

Here's what I would do.... First, I would figure out what the noise is... and if's reasonable to fix, well... fix it. If the engine needs to come out for a rebuild... Pull it out and rebuild it. There's books that will take you through it step by step and there's a wealth of info out on the intrawebs.

IMHO, this car is a learning experience for you. You aren't going to learn much from giving a credit card number to a guy on the phone.
Click to expand...
Thats a good point, I still haven't made up my mind completely but I'm strongly leaning towards the CME engine right now. Maybe I'll get a short block through them but thats not where I'm at right now.
I'm still diagnosing that noise but it looks right now like it's for sure a rod bearing or a main bearing. I might still fix the engine but I want something with more power I guess.

Anyway thanks for giving me something to think about Big John, this is something I need to think about quite a bit. It'll take this car one step further towards it's completion
 
Do you want to pull the engine and rebuild it, or...
do you want to pull the engine and drop in a new one.
It REALLY comes down to that.
 
My advice would be not to spend any money until the source if the noise is found and the extent of the damage is revealed. This decision will be so much easier to make once whatever went wrong is fully understood. You will feel like a jackass if you spend $3K or more on a solution for a problem that might be sorted out for a good deal less than that. Making big dollar decisions under duress and in haste is a recipe for regret. You may well want to stuff another motor in there in the future anyway, but it is better to spend because you want to, not because you feel you must. You had the oil pan off once already. Take it down again and give those innards a thorough examination.
 
Thanks guys, I'm not making any decisions for a while, but I do think I want a new engine. I'm looking for more power and I don't think my 360 will ever be capable of putting out the power a 408 stroker can.

You're right though, I should check out the engine to see if it can be easily fixed, then even if I get a new engine I could sell the old one for a couple hundred bucks. Or keep it running and wait a little longer to get a new stroker.

like I said I'm not making any rash decisions, I'm taking my time with this one. And if everything goes according to plan this summer most of the body work will be finished regardless of the engine business.
 
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I've thought a little bit on the subject and this is where I'm leaning now. I'm thinking of shipping my engine off to be rebuilt as a stroker 408 at either CME or a local place like Napa or one of those guys. Depending on price and reputation. And over the summer I'm thinking of buying a cheap 318 to throw in there and run while I'm saving up for the rebuild.

So that the 360 I got doesn't get any worse. This kind of seems like the best option right now. I'm gonna check the timing on the 360 right now. It seems to have a miss and the idle is getting choppier.
 
celticwarloc said:
If you go the Magnum route, you will have to change your distributor gear, or get a cam with an iron gear to mesh with your iron distributor gear. Roller engines like modern Magnums have cams with harder drive gears, and your distributor gear will be eaten alive. Magnumswap.com has lots of information that you will find useful. The point here is that you have options. Once you do a little bit of homework, the right decision will present itself.
Click to expand...
The gear stays in the engine only the dist changes. I would gut a 2wd ram or van, trans,efi, serpentine, all of it, nobody wants a old 2wd or rotted van in Wisconsin in the winter any way.
 
:BangHead:

SDSIM-V1.5-MODELDIAGRAM.jpg
 
I've been absent a while lately busy with work, but I've tinkered around with some small fixes to my Fury. I put a new radiator fan in, a fixed blade one, it blows a lot more air, the old clutch fan was shot.

But more recently I started work on the roof. Turns out the rust on the roof was not really bad at all, nothing deeper than surface rust. Anyway I'm finishing it up tomorrow then taking the rest of the week to address other issues related to the roof.

20160704_124440.jpg


20160704_124450.jpg
 
Here's day two's progress
Most of the rust still on there can just be rubbed off, the air compressor didn't take that dust off for some reason.

20160705_181357.jpg
 
I already bought some sandable primer, I still have some touching up to do around the edges and there's a small hole that I need to fill some how, I will post a picture tomorrow.

Also I think I've decided on Glacial Blue for my cars paint color, it is a good looking blue that was offered in 71. I'm thinking of painting the hood and vents white in sort of a straight line back and forwards with some simple striping framing it. I wonder if there is a program where I could mock that up to see what it would look like?
 
Sort of like this except with a blue body and a white hood. With less extreme side pinstripes

images (2).jpg
 
More progress today, all the major sanding is done and I'm gonna try to apply this Por 15 stuff on that nasty rust hole then fill it with fiberglass or bondo or both. Anyhow later tonight I'll start on that

20160707_174826.jpg


20160707_174820.jpg


20160707_174809.jpg
 
TheFearlessFury said:
More progress today, all the major sanding is done and I'm gonna try to apply this Por 15 stuff on that nasty rust hole then fill it with fiberglass or bondo or both. Anyhow later tonight I'll start on that
Click to expand...

If that's the pin hole at the rear window... keep in mind it will eventually come back to haunt you if its not repaired with metal... temporary fixes are better than no fixes, so don't let that stop you.
 
cantflip said:
If that's the pin hole at the rear window... keep in mind it will eventually come back to haunt you if its not repaired with metal... temporary fixes are better than no fixes, so don't let that stop you.
Click to expand...
What would be a good way to repair it then? Would that Por 15 stuff work? My dad said that it worked for his GTO's floor boards, I guess it's suppose to chemically alter the rust so it can't progress or something.

That Pin hole isn't as bad as the one on the other side, I couldn't get the picture to load but it's somewhere around twice as big as that other one.

I've been working like crazy this summer, And about half my checks are going towards the Fury lol
 
TheFearlessFury said:
What would be a good way to repair it then? Would that Por 15 stuff work? My dad said that it worked for his GTO's floor boards, I guess it's suppose to chemically alter the rust so it can't progress or something.

That Pin hole isn't as bad as the one on the other side, I couldn't get the picture to load but it's somewhere around twice as big as that other one.

I've been working like crazy this summer, And about half my checks are going towards the Fury lol
Click to expand...
Pulling it all apart and welding in metal is the only way I would call permanent. That's a lot of work and may be tools and skills you would need to hire out... If you're ambitious get an estimate... if not ready... then for now brush a little OSPHO (hardware store item) on there 24 hours later knock it down with a wire brush and use the POR15 if you have it already... the paint wont seal the hole, so you will need something that will do that. POR15 requires a top coat to be UV resistant IIRC... so you need to paint it with something they say will stick/UV protect. Just accept that rust and leaks will eventually return if left out in the weather (steel wouldn't guarantee anything in that condition either) and some day you may have to have the rear windshield removed and this done in metal. Cars that sit out and experience rain and freeze cycles are always going to be more prone to rust than ones that are protected from those conditions... even a non metal repair may last a decade or more in good storage conditions.
 
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