75 New Yorker Hesiatation Update

[Wildbunch02]

It does everything you have described with varying degrees of severity. Right now hesitation is at a min. I not sure about video since I can't even upload more photos, but I will try over the next few days.

 

[Welder guy]

When you swapped over to the Eddie carb and the linkage didn’t work maybe you needed the Mopar linkage adapter 1481

 

[Wildbunch02]

When you swapped over to the Eddie carb and the linkage didn’t work maybe you needed the Mopar linkage adapter 1481 View attachment 157676 View attachment 157677 View attachment 157678 View attachment 157679 View attachment 157680 View attachment 157681 View attachment 157682 View attachment 157683 View attachment 157684

That looks like it would have done the trick, I will keep it in mind in case I swap back, but I feel that I have the Tq close, I just ordered a jiffy kit to swap out the accelerator pump, I will post again with my results, thanks for the help

 

[Davea Lux]

I plugged off Egr valve and that did not help.
I then decided to swap to an Eddie 1406, I removed the Tq and I noticed that the linkage on the 1406 would have required some mods, so I decided to put the Tq back on because I didnt have the time to make the 1406 work.
When I started it up I noticed the idle was considerably lower, around 450, so I decided to re tune it with the vacuum gauge.
I ended up bumping my timing back to 14b,and I had about 21.5vac with carb re-tune.
I took it for a spin and she ran a lot better, the hesitation is still there but it seems much less and is not consistent.
I guess my next step is to order a rebuild kit and swap out the accelerator pump.

The next time you you have the carb off, turn it on its side and shine a flashlight down the throat on both the primary and secondary sides of the carb. You will have to hold the air door open on the sec side. If you can see unequal amounts of light from either side of the primary throttle butterfly, you have a warped throttle plate. Same is true for the secondary side. The carbs were mostly plastic which did not give a lot of support to the throttle plate and sometimes that caused the throttle plate to warp.

Dave

 

[Wildbunch02]

The next time you you have the carb off, turn it on its side and shine a flashlight down the throat on both the primary and secondary sides of the carb. You will have to hold the air door open on the sec side. If you can see unequal amounts of light from either side of the primary throttle butterfly, you have a warped throttle plate. Same is true for the secondary side. The carbs were mostly plastic which did not give a lot of support to the throttle plate and sometimes that caused the throttle plate to warp.

Dave

Ok, thank you, I will check that

 

[Knebel]

Try setting the idle a little rich and see if the severity of the hesitation changes. I think it is accelerator pump related and i bet you need more fuel there. Maybe a bigger accelerator pump nozzle would do the trick, that would dump the fuel sooner. I dont know if they are available for thermoquads... But check all the other things first to make sure the carb is mechanically okay!

 

[Wildbunch02]

Try setting the idle a little rich and see if the severity of the hesitation changes. I think it is accelerator pump related and i bet you need more fuel there. Maybe a bigger accelerator pump nozzle would do the trick, that would dump the fuel sooner. I dont know if they are available for thermoquads... But check all the other things first to make sure the carb is mechanically okay!

Ok, thanks for the advice

 

[moper]

Thermoquads have several adjustments. It is entirely normal for these engines and carbs to need to be tuned regularly. If the timing is set at 8 degrees, and any more and it pings, it's lean already. Once the timing is set, next is idle speed. Then best lean idle vacuum. Then back to idle speed, then best lean mix, etc. until you're there. Then go 1/2 turn out on each mixture screw from the best lean vacuum reading. Next, take the accelerator pump link and move it to the hole closest to the pivot of the arm. Then look at the secondary tension spring. It should be tight enough to keep the door closed, then go 1 turn tighter and lock it down. Last, the metering rod hanger has a height adjusting screw on it. I would back that out 2-3 turns. Then drive the car. If it doesn't ping, you can add timing which will do two things - give it more power and response and mileage, and cause you to have to readjust the idle speed and mixtures...lol

 

[commando1]

And that's why I gave up on it. You just look at it and then it needs another repeat of the procedure. I got too old plus I have ADD.

 

[Wildbunch02]

Thermoquads have several adjustments. It is entirely normal for these engines and carbs to need to be tuned regularly. If the timing is set at 8 degrees, and any more and it pings, it's lean already. Once the timing is set, next is idle speed. Then best lean idle vacuum. Then back to idle speed, then best lean mix, etc. until you're there. Then go 1/2 turn out on each mixture screw from the best lean vacuum reading. Next, take the accelerator pump link and move it to the hole closest to the pivot of the arm. Then look at the secondary tension spring. It should be tight enough to keep the door closed, then go 1 turn tighter and lock it down. Last, the metering rod hanger has a height adjusting screw on it. I would back that out 2-3 turns. Then drive the car. If it doesn't ping, you can add timing which will do two things - give it more power and response and mileage, and cause you to have to readjust the idle speed and mixtures...lol

Wow! Thats good stuff! I feel like I'm close now, if i screw it up I will start over with these instructions. My secondary air door is set at 1 1/4

 

[Wildbunch02]

Hello, I'm finally able to report that I solved my hesitation problem. And it was both carb and timing related.
After making numerous adjustments and getting her to run better, but not 100% I ordered a jiffy kit and tried my own rebuild. The carb had a sticker which indicated it was rebuilt in 2014,
when I opened it up I found rusty looking fuel bowls, and gummy throttle body. I also found a stripped seat which had been repaired by the co. that rebuilt it in 2014. I also found the metering rods to be different sizes.
When I reinstalled it it ran even better, but still wasn't quite there. I played with the timng and carb using the vacuum gauge, but when I got the carb working with no hesitation, the timing would ping, I could never get them to work well together so i ordered a re-manufactured Autoline Tq from Autozone.
After I installed my new Tq, I re-Set timing with vacuum Gauge and with the new carb she wanted it more timing, the initial timing is now just before the timing tab, and then I road tested her and there was great improvement. I then adjusted air fuel with with vacuum gauge and She gave me even more performance, And i believe that I'm finally at 100%.
I know there will be those that will wonder why i didn't go for an Eddy or Demon, but I felt that since Chrysler Used the carbs for so long there must be something good in that design, I also like the idea of the small primaries for some economy.
Thanks to all of you for your suggestions, and for those of you that turned my on to the use of the vacuum gauge for tuning.
Now I can move on to other small issues like fuel gauge that only moves up to the 1st line with the red light on constantly, cruise that doesn't work, and inop dash lights.
Any suggestions are welcome.
Thanks again. Eric

 

[Davea Lux]

Hello, I'm finally able to report that I solved my hesitation problem. And it was both carb and timing related.
After making numerous adjustments and getting her to run better, but not 100% I ordered a jiffy kit and tried my own rebuild. The carb had a sticker which indicated it was rebuilt in 2014,
when I opened it up I found rusty looking fuel bowls, and gummy throttle body. I also found a stripped seat which had been repaired by the co. that rebuilt it in 2014. I also found the metering rods to be different sizes.
When I reinstalled it it ran even better, but still wasn't quite there. I played with the timng and carb using the vacuum gauge, but when I got the carb working with no hesitation, the timing would ping, I could never get them to work well together so i ordered a re-manufactured Autoline Tq from Autozone.
After I installed my new Tq, I re-Set timing with vacuum Gauge and with the new carb she wanted it more timing, the initial timing is now just before the timing tab, and then I road tested her and there was great improvement. I then adjusted air fuel with with vacuum gauge and She gave me even more performance, And i believe that I'm finally at 100%.
I know there will be those that will wonder why i didn't go for an Eddy or Demon, but I felt that since Chrysler Used the carbs for so long there must be something good in that design, I also like the idea of the small primaries for some economy.
Thanks to all of you for your suggestions, and for those of you that turned my on to the use of the vacuum gauge for tuning.
Now I can move on to other small issues like fuel gauge that only moves up to the 1st line with the red light on constantly, cruise that doesn't work, and inop dash lights.
Any suggestions are welcome.
Thanks again. Eric

Fuel gauge issue has several possible causes:
1.) Your cluster regulator has corroded points and is not cycling properly to produce the correct voltage.
2.) Your fuel tank has a bad ground that has high resistance.
3.) The input lead to the fuel tank sending unit is corroded and has high resistance.
4.) The float on the fuel tank sending unit is partially filled with fuel so that it does not travel properly.
5.) There is some type of obstruction to the float arm preventing it from moving.
6.) The resistance unit at the base of the float arm is corroded or damaged.
7.) If you recently replaced your tank sending unit with one of the after market units, especially the ones made in China, you have the high likely hood of a defective unit. Many were fitted with the wrong resistance unit.
8.) Your gas gauge is full of spider webs that are blocking its range of travel, common in cars that sat for a long time.

Get a pair of alligator clips and a wire and attach to the input lead for the fuel tank sending unit and the rear bumper or some other good ground. Briefly turn on the vehicle ignition. If the gauge moves all the way to "full", you know the cluster regulator, gauge and lead to the tank are good. Be careful, this procedure will fry your gauge if the key is left on too long, turn the key off as soon as the gauge approaches full. If the gauge does not move, you probably have a bad cluster regulator or a blocked gauge. Next, clean the ground strap that hooks from the fuel line to the tank, it is a metal clip that spans across the rubber hose that goes from the metal fuel line to the nipple on the fuel tank sending unit. If necessary clean the fuel line and the nipple with some fine sandpaper to assure a good ground. Hook the ground strap back up and re-attach the input lead and note if your gauge now works assuming it went to full on the previous test. If it does, you have corrected the problem. If it still does not work, the problem is with the sending unit which needs to be removed for further evaluation. You will need to remove all the fuel from the tank. Use brass or plastic tools to take off the lock ring for the sending unit. Do no use a drop light with an exposed bulb for this operation, fuel can splash on the hot bulb and ignite fuel vapors in the tank and you will blow yourself up or cause a fire. Put some dry ice or compressed CO2 in the tank prior to removing the sending unit (leave the fuel cap off). If the sending unit is rusted up or corroded, it will need to be replaced.

Inoperative dash lights are usually caused by a broken resistance wire in the light switch, a bad fuse, burned out bulbs in the cluster, or a bad chassis ground to the cluster, or broken circuit pathways on the cluster circuit board, if it has one. You can check the light switch by removing the plug from the switch and running a hot lead to the dash light terminal. If the cluster lights go on, you have a bad light switch. Consult the FSM for the cluster ground location, if that proves to be your problem.

Dave

 

[Wildbunch02]

Hello, I'm finally able to report that I solved my hesitation problem. And it was both carb and timing related.
After making numerous adjustments and getting her to run better, but not 100% I ordered a jiffy kit and tried my own rebuild. The carb had a sticker which indicated it was rebuilt in 2014,
when I opened it up I found rusty looking fuel bowls, and gummy throttle body. I also found a stripped seat which had been repaired by the co. that rebuilt it in 2014. I also found the metering rods to be different sizes.
When I reinstalled it it ran even better, but still wasn't quite there. I played with the timng and carb using the vacuum gauge, but when I got the carb working with no hesitation, the timing would ping, I could never get them to work well together so i ordered a re-manufactured Autoline Tq from Autozone.
After I installed my new Tq, I re-Set timing with vacuum Gauge and with the new carb she wanted it more timing, the initial timing is now just before the timing tab, and then I road tested her and there was great improvement. I then adjusted air fuel with with vacuum gauge and She gave me even more performance, And i believe that I'm finally at 100%.
I know there will be those that will wonder why i didn't go for an Eddy or Demon, but I felt that since Chrysler Used the carbs for so long there must be something good in that design, I also like the idea of the small primaries for some economy.
Thanks to all of you for your suggestions, and for those of you that turned my on to the use of the vacuum gauge for tuning.
Now I can move on to other small issues like fuel gauge that only moves up to the 1st line with the red light on constantly, cruise that doesn't work, and inop dash lights.
Any suggestions are welcome.
Thanks again. Eric

Fuel gauge issue has several possible causes:
1.) Your cluster regulator has corroded points and is not cycling properly to produce the correct voltage.
2.) Your fuel tank has a bad ground that has high resistance.
3.) The input lead to the fuel tank sending unit is corroded and has high resistance.
4.) The float on the fuel tank sending unit is partially filled with fuel so that it does not travel properly.
5.) There is some type of obstruction to the float arm preventing it from moving.
6.) The resistance unit at the base of the float arm is corroded or damaged.
7.) If you recently replaced your tank sending unit with one of the after market units, especially the ones made in China, you have the high likely hood of a defective unit. Many were fitted with the wrong resistance unit.
8.) Your gas gauge is full of spider webs that are blocking its range of travel, common in cars that sat for a long time.

Get a pair of alligator clips and a wire and attach to the input lead for the fuel tank sending unit and the rear bumper or some other good ground. Briefly turn on the vehicle ignition. If the gauge moves all the way to "full", you know the cluster regulator, gauge and lead to the tank are good. Be careful, this procedure will fry your gauge if the key is left on too long, turn the key off as soon as the gauge approaches full. If the gauge does not move, you probably have a bad cluster regulator or a blocked gauge. Next, clean the ground strap that hooks from the fuel line to the tank, it is a metal clip that spans across the rubber hose that goes from the metal fuel line to the nipple on the fuel tank sending unit. If necessary clean the fuel line and the nipple with some fine sandpaper to assure a good ground. Hook the ground strap back up and re-attach the input lead and note if your gauge now works assuming it went to full on the previous test. If it does, you have corrected the problem. If it still does not work, the problem is with the sending unit which needs to be removed for further evaluation. You will need to remove all the fuel from the tank. Use brass or plastic tools to take off the lock ring for the sending unit. Do no use a drop light with an exposed bulb for this operation, fuel can splash on the hot bulb and ignite fuel vapors in the tank and you will blow yourself up or cause a fire. Put some dry ice or compressed CO2 in the tank prior to removing the sending unit (leave the fuel cap off). If the sending unit is rusted up or corroded, it will need to be replaced.

Inoperative dash lights are usually caused by a broken resistance wire in the light switch, a bad fuse, burned out bulbs in the cluster, or a bad chassis ground to the cluster, or broken circuit pathways on the cluster circuit board, if it has one. You can check the light switch by removing the plug from the switch and running a hot lead to the dash light terminal. If the cluster lights go on, you have a bad light switch. Consult the FSM for the cluster ground location, if that proves to be your problem.

Dave

Fuel gauge issue has several possible causes:
1.) Your cluster regulator has corroded points and is not cycling properly to produce the correct voltage.
2.) Your fuel tank has a bad ground that has high resistance.
3.) The input lead to the fuel tank sending unit is corroded and has high resistance.
4.) The float on the fuel tank sending unit is partially filled with fuel so that it does not travel properly.
5.) There is some type of obstruction to the float arm preventing it from moving.
6.) The resistance unit at the base of the float arm is corroded or damaged.
7.) If you recently replaced your tank sending unit with one of the after market units, especially the ones made in China, you have the high likely hood of a defective unit. Many were fitted with the wrong resistance unit.
8.) Your gas gauge is full of spider webs that are blocking its range of travel, common in cars that sat for a long time.

Get a pair of alligator clips and a wire and attach to the input lead for the fuel tank sending unit and the rear bumper or some other good ground. Briefly turn on the vehicle ignition. If the gauge moves all the way to "full", you know the cluster regulator, gauge and lead to the tank are good. Be careful, this procedure will fry your gauge if the key is left on too long, turn the key off as soon as the gauge approaches full. If the gauge does not move, you probably have a bad cluster regulator or a blocked gauge. Next, clean the ground strap that hooks from the fuel line to the tank, it is a metal clip that spans across the rubber hose that goes from the metal fuel line to the nipple on the fuel tank sending unit. If necessary clean the fuel line and the nipple with some fine sandpaper to assure a good ground. Hook the ground strap back up and re-attach the input lead and note if your gauge now works assuming it went to full on the previous test. If it does, you have corrected the problem. If it still does not work, the problem is with the sending unit which needs to be removed for further evaluation. You will need to remove all the fuel from the tank. Use brass or plastic tools to take off the lock ring for the sending unit. Do no use a drop light with an exposed bulb for this operation, fuel can splash on the hot bulb and ignite fuel vapors in the tank and you will blow yourself up or cause a fire. Put some dry ice or compressed CO2 in the tank prior to removing the sending unit (leave the fuel cap off). If the sending unit is rusted up or corroded, it will need to be replaced.

Inoperative dash lights are usually caused by a broken resistance wire in the light switch, a bad fuse, burned out bulbs in the cluster, or a bad chassis ground to the cluster, or broken circuit pathways on the cluster circuit board, if it has one. You can check the light switch by removing the plug from the switch and running a hot lead to the dash light terminal. If the cluster lights go on, you have a bad light switch. Consult the FSM for the cluster ground location, if that proves to be your problem.

Dave

Thanks for the great info i will let you know how Imake out. Any ideas on the cruise control?

 

[Wildbunch02]

It doesnt do anything, no lights, no indication that it works, all fueses in fuse box are good

 

[Davea Lux]

It doesnt do anything, no lights, no indication that it works, all fueses in fuse box are good

You probably have an open circuit some place between the control actuator and the speed control unit. Get the circuit diagram from the FSM and start running continuity tests on the bundle of wires that goes from the actuator to the unit. Speed control units of that era not noted for their reliability.

Dave

 

[Wildbunch02]

You probably have an open circuit some place between the control actuator and the speed control unit. Get the circuit diagram from the FSM and start running continuity tests on the bundle of wires that goes from the actuator to the unit. Speed control units of that era not noted for their reliability.

Dave