AC no longer working

You can use R134a in the stock factory system by simply replacing the O-rings.
But that's not the way I do things. :D

The prior owner replaced the compressor twice. I have replaced the compressor twice. That means my car is on its fifth compressor.

Replacing the original condensor wth a high efficiency parallel flow condenser with pusher fans is recomended.

Hoses, well they're 40 years old. Are you gonna put in all that expensive refrigerant when thhe hoses are beyond their life expectancy?

You have to install a new drier and expansion valve, regardless.
I rebuilt the AC system on my '79 Cordoba and replaced the pressure hose, condenser (was still able to find one at a junkyard), expansion valve, dryer, and all o rings. The compressor was good. I would do the same on my Newport if necessary, but you scared me mentioning the evaporator. All of my components currently work; I would only want to swap those that I "had" to.
 
There is an AC shop here in Chico; I am sure the guy can answer any if my questions. I just don't want to pay the price; I'm cheap!!
 
All of my components currently work; I would only want to swap those that I "had" to
At the bare minimum, all you have to do is..
Purge the old system.
Drain the oil.
Vacuum the system.
Replace the drier.
Replace the O-Rings.
Add new oil.
Convert the the two "fill" fittings.
Add new refrierant.

Refrigerent, conversion fittings, o-rings, drier, and oil.
 
What trouble shooting have you done? A couple of things you could check. Is the compressor clutch getting power? Can you get the clutch to engage if you jumper the clutch with a fused wire from battery positive? First you might want to find out what caused the compressor to stop turning. The coil in the clutch might be open, causing the clutch not to engage or no power getting to the clutch. Could be a simple fix.
 
FWIW, my 70 was missing every A/C piece under the hood and the evaporator had its fittings twisted off.

I used a Bouchillon bracket and water pump pulley, Sanden style compressor, cross flow condenser and new hoses and fittings. I found a NORS evaporator on Ebay. This year, I added twin electric fans.

It was expensive, but the results were worth it. I can get center vent temps hitting 40° at a fast idle.

That was pretty much starting from scratch. If I had the system intact like you do, I would look into converting to R134a and keeping as much of the existing parts as you can. The biggest issue I see is getting all the old oil and crap out of the system. I'd also look at a new R134a compatible V style compressor to keep the stock look.

IMHO, the worst that could happen is you have a system that might need recharging every year. Buy a set of Harbor Fright A/C gauges and maybe one of their vacuum pumps and recharge it yourself once a year. It ain't rocket surgery.
 
Oh and my wise *** son stopped by one day and took one look at me working on the A/C and pointed to the top and said "A/C?? You do know...this top goes down.."
 
What trouble shooting have you done? A couple of things you could check. Is the compressor clutch getting power? Can you get the clutch to engage if you jumper the clutch with a fused wire from battery positive? First you might want to find out what caused the compressor to stop turning. The coil in the clutch might be open, causing the clutch not to engage or no power getting to the clutch. Could be a simple fix.
Power is connected, it was the first thing I checked. Even checked again last week when I put the new manifold valley pan on.

In all honesty I've done no trouble shooting other than that. You may be very right that it is something simple - and I would love that! I am making a HUGE assumption based on the fact that it was low on Freon when I bought it, and the compressor was not engaging due to the safety switch, and after 13 years it simply stopped one night last fall. The compressor has wet spots on it; I am assuming that's where the leak is, and was. I knew it would be a matter of time; I actually feel blessed it's been 13 years.
 
Oh and my wise *** son stopped by one day and took one look at me working on the A/C and pointed to the top and said "A/C?? You do know...this top goes down.."
Ha!!! I do use my AC more with the top down than up. It often gets in the low 100s here in Chico, and sitting at a stop light in that heat is killer! In Bakersfield I would put the top up - it was just too damn hot there!
 
Here is a recent picture of my motor - you can see the wetness on my compressor.
IMG_6607.JPG

OK, not as recent as I thought, as this was 2012, but you can see the wet spots on the compressor here. The top of it is fully wet today.
 
there used to be a product called freeze-12. it was compatible with r-12 and came in small cans. i'm not sure if it still exists or not.
 
You have watch some of the so called R12 compatible refrigerants. They can be flammable. Containing propane or methane. If you find that you system has lost its charge. I would first find where the leak is. From the looks of the pictures it may be the front seal of the compressor. That's were my leak was. At that point you have to decide what route you want to take. For me it was easy, I'm not concerned if my engine compartment looks original. Sanden style compressor and brackets, kept stock condenser and evaporate had the hoses made.
 
Yay!! I just learned, through a Church Member who's having his '99 Dodge Pickup serviced, that there is a shop here in Chico that has R-12 available! (He asked them for me.) They have 70 pounds left and are selling it for $40 a pound - that's great!! Gotta call them and get an appointment. If I have them do an entire service the bad seals will be replaced. Excellent! I'll keep you informed.
 
Here are a few links...

Choosing and Using a Retrofit Refrigerant for a CFC-12 Motor Vehicle Air Conditioner (MVAC) | Motor Vehicle Air Conditioning (MVAC) System Servicing | US EPA
Ten Questions to Ask Before You Purchase An Alternative Refrigerant | Significant New Alternatives Policy (SNAP) Program | US EPA
Choosing and Using Alternative Refrigerants for Motor Vehicle Air Conditioning | Significant New Alternatives Policy (SNAP) Program | US EPA
https://www.epa.gov/snap/choosing-and-using-alternative-refrigerants-motor-vehicle-air-conditioning
Sorry Stan R12a is flammable... as are some others...

I don't care if you are recharging with plutonium239, it's your car, life...

R134a is still in use and I usually buy 30lbs for around $75... been a year or so... but the price is always moving. A legal R134a conversion involves easy to buy fittings, flushing the oil out of the old system and installing the new. Barrier hose is often a recommendation but not a federal requirement... as is repair of any leaks prior to charging. Lots of state laws about this too.

Propane works really well in R12 applications... except for one minor issue with flammability. Regardless of what anyone chooses to do... and there are lots of options. Remember that you are contaminating your system in a way that may prevent future serviceability and could be a liability issue at resale

There used to be a site that broke down all the available refrigerants available a decade or so ago, when I last looked into this. I worked at a shop that used freeze 12 incorrectly and upon my research explained very calmly to the owner that I would have no part of those jobs...

Do what you like, but research enough to know exactly what you are doing. I imagine the A/C situation will change quite a bit over the next decade, try not to commit yourself to something you aren't prepared to maintain.
 
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