Big John - that is essentially what I did with both my cars. Except for the carefully hidden pressure switch it looks and functions as stock. You can see the pressure switch underneath the low pressure hose.
AC no longer working
- Thread starter Snotty
- Start date
OK, a new problem. My AC stopped working again, but, the compressor was still running. Even so, no cold air coming out of the vents. So, last week I drove the car - no heat, although the fan is blowing. Everything seems to be working but no cold or hot air.
I've looked for loose or broken vacuum lines but found none. Any thoughts, ideas as to what to look for?
I've looked for loose or broken vacuum lines but found none. Any thoughts, ideas as to what to look for?
Sounds like your dash control isn't sending message to open thermostat for heat or engage compressor for AC.
AutoTemp car?
Cable controlled thermostat?
AutoTemp car?
Cable controlled thermostat?
Not auto temp, but no cable either. I have been wondering whether the connection on the back of the control has somehow slipped off. I replaced the unit in 2010.
This is what I have. There's no cable, which surprised me as the '62 I owned did.
3895033 MOPAR AC A/C HEATER CONTROL SWITCH NEW OEM | eBay
This is what I have. There's no cable, which surprised me as the '62 I owned did.
3895033 MOPAR AC A/C HEATER CONTROL SWITCH NEW OEM | eBay
70Tom
Senior Member
Wow, that's great. Do you know of anyone who's ever used this?
Snotty, while I'm not nearly as familiar with the later Fusy AC systems, all the functions were vacuum controlled except the temperature... you gotta have a temp slider unless it's Autotemp, then you have a temp dial/wheel, yes? All that being said, I think you're likely on the right track. Unfortunately that means rummaging around under the dash. 
Service manual troubleshooting is in order methinks.
Post a picture of your dash HVAC controls.
Service manual troubleshooting is in order methinks.
Post a picture of your dash HVAC controls.
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70Tom and Commando1 - I've never tried the Frostycool stuff, but I see it for sale in the stores up here all the time.
There are quite a few refrigerant substitutes available under many brand names... all I can say is do your research and look for customer reviews, and best of luck. My guess is that if you flush the system really well, use the right oil, and follow instructions about recharging, you're probably good to go.
AC systems are really not rocket surgery - they operate on a pretty basic principle...
There are quite a few refrigerant substitutes available under many brand names... all I can say is do your research and look for customer reviews, and best of luck. My guess is that if you flush the system really well, use the right oil, and follow instructions about recharging, you're probably good to go.
AC systems are really not rocket surgery - they operate on a pretty basic principle...
This statement I can agree to, almost 100%, The oil compatibility is the biggest problem when converting to any refrigerant... I am still inclined to go with 134a... I have decades of successful conversions with the stuff... even if they are marginally less cool than 12 was. I don't really give a toot about the others, mostly because I can still find 30lbs cylinders of 134 during season for well under $100... and if 30# won't last you... you're doing it wrong.
As to seasoned hoses... I have never found any evidence to support either side of the argument... the leakage rate through a good hose is going to be so small and so many NEW cars couldn't keep a good seal on 134... I consider annual top offs to be reasonable, and in most cases every several years does the trick.
The only reason I don't go for propane, is the danger factor... understand it is the person servicing the system that would have the most risk by far... still, I know it is out there and working successfully in many older systems. My lack of interest in other refrigerants has me pretty much lumping the non-vehicle use ones in with propane... not legal and not proven safe.
The only other real opinion that might help... stay far away from sealants... always read the small cans, as many contain sealants... I have an extremely simple way to repair a car that has a sealant blockage... I just replace everything and don't feel bad for a single second.
The heater hose flow valve is vacuum controlled on all the Fuselage A/C cars. The dash slider controls the vacuum.
No cable.
Interesting. Thanks for straightening me out on that.
celticwarlock
Active Member
Check to see if the proper hose is getting cold with the A/C running. If it is nice and chilly, chances are you have issues with the vacuum controls or the associated components. This is a rudimentary check, but it could give you at least some information.
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these do get brittle and fall apart. the last one i had go bad the back of it, where the prongs and vacuum nipples are ,separated from the housing.
If I recall correctly there is a guy out there who rebuilds them using little brass tubes for the vacuum fittings.
I have no idea who he is or any contact info...
I have no idea who he is or any contact info...
Yes, it has the temp slider, it's just not cable operated; I thought that what was being asked. It's done internally somehow.Snotty, while I'm not nearly as familiar with the later Fusy AC systems, all the functions were vacuum controlled except the temperature... you gotta have a temp slider unless it's Autotemp, then you have a temp dial/wheel, yes? All that being said, I think you're likely on the right track. Unfortunately that means rummaging around under the dash.
Service manual troubleshooting is in order methinks.
Post a picture of your dash HVAC controls.
I fear your last comment is going to have to happen if I can't find anything under the hood. I keep looking thinking the guys who did the work knocked something loose. Getting under that dash is a job for a small person - something I am not. It's much easier with the front seats removed, but I don't want to do that either.
Best of luck on that one!
There it is! That's what I was saying. When I replaced the unit in 2010 I was surprised to see the lack of a cable. It was there on the '62 when I replaced that unit. In fact, the cable operated thermostat was rusted and stopped. Some lube and massage got it to working again, and it worked great! Prior to that the slider did not move at all.
I'm thinking you're in the right area. I Can see the Freon moving through the dryer "eye." So I know the compressor is doing its job. But something is keeping that, as well as the coolant for the heat, from entering the cab. It happened when I first bought the car and drove it to Delano on a cold day - all of the sudden my heat went away! I found a bad hose on the vacuum "ball" reservoir on the font of the car. replaced that and all was well - until these past two months. That hose is good, however.
Yes, and the original one did fall apart in 2010. I replaced it then. I'm hoping it hasn't gone bad again. It's not expensive, just a pain to replace!
these do get brittle and fall apart. the last one i had go bad the back of it, where the prongs and vacuum nipples are ,separated from the housing.
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